Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

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Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

And btw is this overheating warning possibly coming from the sensor? Or electric malfunction?
 
If you leave the car in any gear, putting your foot on the brake before turning the key commands the gearbox to move itself to N

In one video the car is cranking in first gear, I was under the impression that this shouldn't be possible

If you switch the car off in N the brake pedal isn't strictly nessasary


I am not going to get hung up on this, because we have no injector click when commanded via scan tool
 
When you turn the ignition on and the pump is priming

With the test light on battery negative if you touch the injector ECU signal side

Does it click
 
When you turn the ignition on and the pump is priming

With the test light on battery negative if you touch the injector ECU signal side

Does it click
Yep I tried them all they all activate and the tick is audible coming straight from the injectors themselves
 
Same with both coils

You should be able to see a spark the same way

When you turn the ignition on and the pump is priming

With the test light on battery negative if you touch the coil ECU signal side you should spark on a grounded plug
 
Same with both coils

You should be able to see a spark the same way

When you turn the ignition on and the pump is priming

With the test light on battery negative if you touch the coil ECU signal side you should spark on a grounded plug
Gonna check that but consider it functioning because the car when it decides to run it runs so they're definitely functional but still I'm going to check them
 
Yep we don't know how it's wired internally inside the ECU

It's not unknown for one shorted injector to stop them all

I doubt a faulty coil would stop everything, but it needs eliminating, especially as the coil primaries weren't identical when we resistor checked then and we didn't check the secondaries at all

This way we know if its fully functional and can move on quickly
 
Do you mean that it's possible that the ECU has an internal short circuit on an injector or coil pack?
Yep we don't know how it's wired internally inside the ECU

It's not unknown for one shorted injector to stop them all

I doubt a faulty coil would stop everything, but it needs eliminating, especially as the coil primaries weren't identical when we resistor checked then and we didn't check the secondaries at all

This way we know if its fully functional and can move on quickly
 
Do you mean that it's possible that the ECU has an internal short circuit on an injector or coil pack?
No otherwise they would be on permanently

There could be a fault in the ECU as yet it unknown

We need to check everything plug into it is getting the correct power and working

Lots of things will stop the ECU but it needs very little to work
 
But speaking about internal fault shouldn't the ECU throw a DTC saying ECU internal fault?
 
So far it's clean with phonic relearn.
Motorised throttle being intermittent and the p0335 very less frequent but still there showing very rarely and the rest stable fault is the 9022 that goes and comes but still frequent relatively
 
Now I'm waiting for someone to lend me a hand with the ignition, but meanwhile I'd like to ask you about the D601 or 602 it was named can communication failure that i sent the picture about it previously it's worth checking it while waiting
 
I can't really do much with the codes
They aren't the correct fiat codes

D601/2 are just a hexadecimal number and is probably U160??

Code meanings change model to model we aren't connected to the correct model with the scan tool, the wiring altered in 2007

U16 and U17 often turn up when the battery is low

Getting the correct codes was part of the reason for trying multiECUscan, don't clear the codes and try reading them with multiECUscan

Genuine CANBUS errors are normally associated to the the ABS unit and water getting inside

Which is why I asked way back for the ABS to be disconnected, from the connector you can measure if the resistance is correct

While testing there no point in plugging anything not need back in, lets get it running again then plug them back in one at a time
 
No spark at all on both coil packs tried all 4 wires there is no spark although the 12v tester is lighting up
 
The big loom on the abs was never disconnected because the dust is extremely thick on it want me to remove it?
 
What i mean the car was previously repaired through BCM and ECU only the abs has never been touched so far
 
No spark at all on both coil packs tried all 4 wires there is no spark although the 12v tester is lighting up
Not what I expected

Let me double check

Back shortly just need to go out for a bit

Don't keane the test lead connected as it will burn out the coils, although the power should cut after 3 seconds
 
Yeah yeah i always disconnect them and gonna do you a video to show you the coil packs behavior
 
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