Ladies and Gents,

I need to remove the gearbox in order to change the clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder doodah. I will be fitting a new clutch at the same time, since I'm not a glutton for punishment...

I have dismantled everything away from the gearbox, in the hope that it would appear smaller.. including pulling the n/s outer drive-shaft out of the tripoid spider assembly.

What I don't know/can't see .. is a way to disconnect the o/s ("long") drive-shaft from the differential (this being the driveshaft that runs behind the engine to the o/s tripoid spider).

From pictures it looks like it has splines on the end. If I just remove the clutch bell housing away from the engine, will the driveshaft just "drop out" (i.e remain in situ')? It seems supported at the other end by a brace and counterweight thing.


Ta.



Ralf S.

When I pulled mine out to do the alternator I seem to remember having to use a lump of wood and a large hammer to knock the driveshaft out.

Although thinking about it I was removing the strut and replacing that so had to remove the driveshaft from the hub so I might me totally wrong. I am guessing you might have to remove the shaft other wise it would be a pig trying to get the gearbox back on and try to get the shaft in at the same time.

Not much help I know.. Been a while since I did any work on a stilo.

Ralf S. said:

What I don't know/can't see .. is a way to disconnect the o/s ("long") drive-shaft from the differential (this being the driveshaft that runs behind the engine to the o/s tripoid spider).

From pictures it looks like it has splines on the end. If I just remove the clutch bell housing away from the engine, will the driveshaft just "drop out" (i.e remain in situ')? It seems supported at the other end by a brace and counterweight thing.Ralf S.

Click to expand...

You don't need to touch the right driveshaft, it's held in position by it's centre bearing. When you separate the gearbox from the engine, the driveshaft splined end will stay there as in the picture below.


.

Ah cheers Davren...

I love you man!

The more I looked at that Mo-Fo the more I couldn't work out how the hell it's supposed to come apart...

Now all I have to do is find a burly geezer to help me lift the beast off..


Ralf S.

Good bit of info and useful picture, when my clutch, dual mass flywheel goes!, would it be easier to change the mount that always wears at the same time, isnt that a pig when the engine/gearbox are complete?.

Just out of interest has it been a pig to-do so far Ralf?

Paul

Ralf S. said:

Now all I have to do is find a burly geezer to help me lift the beast off.. Ralf S.

Click to expand...

I rolled mine out on a trolley jack, but as the centre of gravity of the gearbox isn't central, I had to make up a wooden jig for it to sit on the jack pad.

I used a ratchet strap fixed to the garage roof to lift it back in.
.

I used an engine hoist on my gear box just found it easier to get it back in with hoist on my own

i used a ratchet strap around the gear box and around my garage roof , wiggled it out , and dropped it down

paullawton2007 said:

Good bit of info and useful picture, when my clutch, dual mass flywheel goes!, would it be easier to change the mount that always wears at the same time, isnt that a pig when the engine/gearbox are complete?.

Just out of interest has it been a pig to-do so far Ralf?

Paul

Click to expand...

I've removed a lot of stuff to make room for it;

Nearside wheel, hub, caliper and driveshaft (as you might expect)
Battery and carrier frame. Fuse box moved aside.
EGR (probably not essential)
Rear gearbox mount under the car
Gearbox top mount

It's been all normal spannering rather than anything too "complicated".

I dropped the box out by taking the weight on a trolley jack and pulling/easing it away from the engine and then lowering it to the ground. It does tend to "fall over" / unbalance so you have to support it.

I had a few layers of cardboard on the ground so the 'box had a soft landing when I moved it from jack to ground.. then I could pull it out using the cardboard as a sledge. I had to jack the car up a few more inches to get it out of the wheel arch.

Getting it back on I might need some pukka lifting equipment or some ratchet and straps etc.. but that's one for next weekend..


Ralf S.

Driveshaft oil seals

Ragazzi,

I'm mid-clutch change and I'm tempted to change the driveshaft oil seals, since the diff has an grungey bottom and the o/s driveshaft in particular is a bit "oily".

The seal looks like it's behind a metal cap (ePer suggests that the metal "cap" is part of / contains the oil seal) and to me it looks like the assembly is just pressed in..

But before I lever the old one out (potentially damaging it) is that correct?


Also.. the nearside seal sits behind the tripoid cup doodah. How does the cup come out of the diff? Is it just a "pull it out" job, or it it held in with a circlip etc? I haven't looked at it closely.

Ta..

Ralf S.

Re: Driveshaft oil seals


As the old saying goes, "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"

Re: Driveshaft oil seals

Good point well made..

It's only a slight "mist" on the driveshaft.... but on the other hand, I just never want to take the gearbox off ever again if I can help it..


Ralf S.

Re: Driveshaft oil seals

There's no circlip holding the driveshaft into the gearbox. Just pull it out.

The metal cap is part of the oil seal. (The left and right driveshaft oil seals are different sizes).
.

Used next door's 12 year old lad to lie under the car and lift the gearbox back up so that I could re-attach it to the engine.

The biggest problem is physically lifting the gearbox and lining up the output shaft and the driveshaft at the same time. The gearbox wants to "pivot" forwards rather than naturally line up. An engine/gearbox hoist or straps to a beam to take the weight is pretty essential.

The lad's head is an odd shape now where he was balancing the gearbox on it.... so just "a lad" is not enough.

Anyway, 'box is back on and the driveshafts are back on.. Thanks again to Davren for the photos.. they confirmed I was doing it right/hadn't missed a bolt or something else.

I left the driveshaft oil seals.. just no time find new ones to change them... but it looks like they can be changed without dropping the gearbox so if they get too bad I can change them later.

Also a pain in the 'arris was putting the gearbox top-mount on.. The engine & box lean forwards without this.. so you need a bit of brute force to push it back to its normal position before you can fit the mount.

Battery box and airbox still to fit and even new brake pins for when I refit the caliper.. but sofa's are good..


Ralf S.