Could anyone advise what is the best software and lead to get to interigate a knackered Fiat stilo 1.2. It won't turn over and shows all kinds of errors including loose connection. The battery is new, the earth connections to the body and engine are perfect, the relay/fusebox just behind the battery is replaced. (this all started when that got a load of water in it and shorted out). Last try is to talk to the computer and see if it can tell me anything.

thanks,

winston

fiatecuscan plus obd are the best. Where are you as some people are happy to help out if they are nr you with the kit already

gamekeeper said:

Could anyone advise what is the best software and lead to get to interigate a knackered Fiat stilo 1.2.

winston

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Simple answer to your query Winston, download yourself a FREE copy of FiatECU scan from here http://www.fiatecuscan.net/ Then acquire yourself an OBD 2 Conector cable, either VAG COM or a ELM 327 v1.3 only not any other version, and your ready to go . All the instructions are on the web site on to use and how to set it all up.

Hope this helps

I am very near York if anyone is in the area that would be fantastic.

thanks

Hello Winston.

If your near Wolverhampton I have a registered version of FES and an ELM 327, your welcome to pop round and use it.

Thanks all for your help and offers of help. I wish the car was running to get to Wolverhampton lol. Anyway got the program and the lead. The ECU only shows one fault that clears on it's own anyway, that's U1601 if it means anything to anyone. I can turn the engine cooling fan on and off and the fue pump so the comunications are working ok. However, th ecu is the only thing I can connect to. If I try to connect to the body computer it doesn't want to know. Says to check lead etc. Same with everything else. Does this give any clues as to what may be wrong. Thans in advance.

Elm or Vag lead?

Body computer needs registered version to read.

Error code u1601 - Immobiliser recognition ...?

Check dry and clean the D4 connector under the
battery see if that helps.

John

I have cleaned and cleaned connector D4. I am an electrical engineer of many years standing working on a multitude of industrial processing equipment so I am confident this is not a simple earthing/battery/D4 connector problem. This is my first foray into cars for my daughter who has spent alot of money on this car for 3 weeks worth of driving, any help would be much appreciated.

Sorry missed this bit. the lead is as shown below. Bought off ebay.
ELM 327 USB 1.4a OBD2 II Code Car Diagnostic Interface

Ballackcanavaro99 said:

Then acquire yourself an OBD 2 Conector cable, either VAG COM or a ELM 327 v1.3 only not any other version, and your ready to go .
Hope this helps

Click to expand...

missed that bit then.....

there is a guide on FES website to making the cheaper fakes work....not sure how consistent it is though

gamekeeper said:

It won't turn over and shows all kinds of errors including loose connection. The battery is new, the earth connections to the body and engine are perfect

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If the engine doesn't turn over, it has to be a simple battery, earth lead, power to starter motor or starter motor problem. Even with a U1601 immobiliser fault, the engine should still turn over but may not start. FES will not diagnose these simple problems.

Does the starter motor solenoid click when trying to start?

Check maxi-fuse F03 (20Amp) in the engine compartment fuse box.

Check for voltage drop from the -ve battery terminal (not the clamp) to a clean part of the starter motor casing.

Check for voltage drop from the +ve battery terminal (not the clamp) to the main starter motor terminal (30) bolt.

Check that you have battery voltage at the starter motor solenoid terminal (50) when the ignition switch is switched to start.
.

that information was invaluable. Thanks. I have tested teminal 30 and there is full battery voltage approx 12.8V. When turning the ignition key approx 10V appeared on terminal 50 as best as I could test it (the battery voltage stopped at 12.5V). I then did what us old fashioned guys do and wrapped a piece of 1mm wire round the battery terminal and stuck it straight onto terminal 50, the solenoid buzzed but didn't pull in. It didn't buzz when I turned the ignition.
I have to assume the solenoid is knackered/stuck. So the next question is how to get it off. I did all this by jacking the car up and working through the narrow gap between the front cross structure and the engine. Will the starter motor/solenoid come out that way or do you have to take all the inlet manifold off. Thanks in advance.

Never done one on a 1.2 engine but seems easy enough from the manual.

Starter motor solenoid is not usually supplied seperately.
.

brilliant thanks.They are saying it should come out underneath. Will have a go tomorrow night. Much better than removing the inlet manifold. Will let you know how I get on.

Taken me a while to get back onto this. The starter motor was destroyed. She told me the car started twice on it's own with no keys in, that's why I thought it was controlled by the computer. Any way, I can only think the starter motor came in when the engine was running because I have never seen anything so wrecked. The water that got into the fusebox/relay box near the battery must have shorted the wiring to the starter motor.

Anyway new fusebox/relay box and a new starter and the car now starts first turn which is impressive as it's only running on 3 cylinders. So can anyone help with this. I have swapped the spark plug and coil with one of the other cylinders that is firing but it made no difference. The same cylinder still does not fire. It's the one nearest the battery. I have now purchased a proper lead from scan tool direct which works properly but fiatscan is simply showing a misfire fault, nothing else. If it is any clue the headlights are also stuck on high beam even though the dashboard shows it switching from high to low beam when you activate the lever.

thanks.

gamekeeper said:

I have swapped the spark plug and coil with one of the other cylinders that is firing but it made no difference. The same cylinder still does not fire. It's the one nearest the battery..

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Check the spark plugs.

Put a working spark plug into the offending coil(the one nearest the battery) and visually check if there is a spark.

Have done that thanks but it made no difference. I tested the spark last night in the dark and no matter which plug and coil I try on that end cylinder there is no spark. Anyone know where the wiring goes from the coil and what voltages I should get on the plug that plugs into the oil. The fuel is getting to the cylinder, it comes out of the exhaust in the form of a white smoke and eventually a small puddle on the floor. It is just the spark hat's not there. Thanks in advance.

winston

According to eLEARN for the 1.2 engine:

Each of the 4 coils (A30) should have a permanent 12v +ve supply with the ignition on to pins 3. They should all be White/Black (BN) wires.

Each of the 4 coils should have a permanent earth to pins 2 from earth point C40. They should be Black/Violet (NV) wires.

The coils are individually fired on pins 1 by an earth signal from the engine management ECU (M10). I would assume coils A, B, C and D on the diagram relate to coils 1, 2, 3 and 4 respectively, so coil 1 would be a Yellow/Black (GN) wire, coil 2 a White/Brown (BM) wire, coil 3 a Dark Blue/Black (LN) wire and coils 4 a White/Dark Blue (BL) wire.

Bear in mind that eLEARN wiring diagram colours are often incorrect so you may need to use pin numbers rather than wire colours.
.

brilliant, many thanks. Am back at work now till Friday so will check it out then. But once again thanks for info.

winston

Got the spark now, there was a loose connection on the plug onto the coil. I think I may have caused it pulling the plug in and out because it turns out that's not the real problem. The real problem is that the injector is in the permanantly open position. Hence the puddle of petrol on the floor behind the car after a little running.

I have tested the voltages on the injector plugs and on the 3 cylinders that are firing there is 3.6V. On the 4th cylinder that is stuck in the open position there is a permanent 12.6V. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this and what the likely cure is.

thanks again in advance,

winston