When it comes to lack of power and stalling, people can often get fixated about EGR's ...
My experience has been that the EGR is a necessary and functioning device that can be quite easily cleaned. There are guides that go into details. Also technical explanations on how they work and how they save fuel too ...
Not long after buying my 2008 Sedici it developed intermittent power problems. It first showed up with the engine dying when pulling up at junctions. There can be several causes for this problem of course.
I finally diagnosed the Turbo Controller, which is located at the top front left and is a moving part that wears out. You can use grips on the vacuum pipes to eliminate its action. It's a bit hidden, behind a squarish panel and underneath where the power steering pipes run across the top, to the left of the dip-stick and to the left of where the air feed drops down to the turbo. You have to unbolt a few clamps and mounts to get the panel out.
The controller might look like a sealed plastic lump with some wires and tubes attached but inside is a constantly moving piston that adjusts the vacuum pull on the the turbo actuator.
Now, these controllers are not cheap and it does take a big leap of faith to replace them. So, before you go doing this I would check the vacuum pipes carefully.
About three years after fixing the controller a new but related fault appeared. Every time the AirCon was on the engine lacked power and was very flat at pull away. There is a design fault that can cause one of the vacuum pipes to split.
I don't know how many of these vehicles had this problem. At some point, I think there was a bigger flexible tube running down to the actuator but the suppliers must have changed the spec. The joining block is a purposefully made item, so my thoughts are that they failed to update this bit when the tube spec changed.
At least, I would like to think that. I can't say that I have been over-whelmed by the build quality of these basically Hungarian built Suzuki's. They seem to be generally good value for the money and people tell me that lots of cars are built like it these days but that is another discussion ...
So, if you have have blowlamp and can solder, what you have to do is cut the flange end off of the offending item, to get a good capillary fit, and solder in reduction to OD 4.5 or 5mm.
I also had to cut the joining matrix into two, to get extra movement to compensate for the reduced available length.
(would like to post photos, but need 5 posts first ..)
My experience has been that the EGR is a necessary and functioning device that can be quite easily cleaned. There are guides that go into details. Also technical explanations on how they work and how they save fuel too ...
Not long after buying my 2008 Sedici it developed intermittent power problems. It first showed up with the engine dying when pulling up at junctions. There can be several causes for this problem of course.
I finally diagnosed the Turbo Controller, which is located at the top front left and is a moving part that wears out. You can use grips on the vacuum pipes to eliminate its action. It's a bit hidden, behind a squarish panel and underneath where the power steering pipes run across the top, to the left of the dip-stick and to the left of where the air feed drops down to the turbo. You have to unbolt a few clamps and mounts to get the panel out.
The controller might look like a sealed plastic lump with some wires and tubes attached but inside is a constantly moving piston that adjusts the vacuum pull on the the turbo actuator.
Now, these controllers are not cheap and it does take a big leap of faith to replace them. So, before you go doing this I would check the vacuum pipes carefully.
About three years after fixing the controller a new but related fault appeared. Every time the AirCon was on the engine lacked power and was very flat at pull away. There is a design fault that can cause one of the vacuum pipes to split.
I don't know how many of these vehicles had this problem. At some point, I think there was a bigger flexible tube running down to the actuator but the suppliers must have changed the spec. The joining block is a purposefully made item, so my thoughts are that they failed to update this bit when the tube spec changed.
At least, I would like to think that. I can't say that I have been over-whelmed by the build quality of these basically Hungarian built Suzuki's. They seem to be generally good value for the money and people tell me that lots of cars are built like it these days but that is another discussion ...
So, if you have have blowlamp and can solder, what you have to do is cut the flange end off of the offending item, to get a good capillary fit, and solder in reduction to OD 4.5 or 5mm.
I also had to cut the joining matrix into two, to get extra movement to compensate for the reduced available length.
(would like to post photos, but need 5 posts first ..)
