Technical How do i bleed the cooling system inc the matrix

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Technical How do i bleed the cooling system inc the matrix

melliottuk

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Hi my punto has a noise behind the glovebox (water) i have been told to bleed the system as this could cause gasket failure.

How do i go about doing it in the proper way. I have seen a post on here before but i cannot find it now (i have done a search).

Can anyone tell me how to do both the radiator and the matrix in the correct way?

Thanks
 
there are 2 bleed screws, one on top of rad, one at back of engine on heater hose,
undo both, fill header tank right to the top squeze all the hoses, keep repeating this untill a fair amount of coolent is coming out of both bleed screws, then do up the back one, keep squezing hoses so coolent keeps coming out of rad bleed screw untill the coolent is at max, do up screw, replace rad cap, run engine untill fan comes on, then let it cool for hours, then check level top up to max if needed
 
so i do it with the engine off, and pump the water by squeezing the pipes?

then test with engine on
 
did it today, had it down to a fine art but it seems to have made it worse as the is still there and is probably more apparent than before.

i did this with an ex machanic too so we didnt do much wrong.

Any tips?

i was thinking of opening the matrix valve a bit then starting the car as this is when the sound appears and hopefully the air will pass out the valve and not go through the matrix.
 
valve on the pipe at the back of the engine that leads into the cabin
 
Tried again today but no difference so i then tried this

i have opened the one at the back of the engine a little whist starting the engine, i managed to get a few bubbles out this why by gently massaging the tubes, although i was being very careful not to let any air be sucked In when releasing the tubes.

Will see how it goes, its no perfect but hopefully it will do.
 
still there so took it to the local garage to get some advice, he said that because the bleed valves are more or less the same height as the head of the engine there air is probably still stuck in there. So he recons the only way to go it is to fill the radiator right to the brim and keep it topped up to the brim with a hose pipe. Jack the car up at the front as high as possible and keep bleeding out the radiator plug until it goes away, so as the water comes out more and more water is going in via a hose pipe.
 
Such a long post for a 5 minute job !!!!

(this is starting from a completly drained system)

Heater on full, Expansion Tank lid off.

Get a watering can mixed with water and anti freeze at the correct ammount for the car.

Pour in to expansion tank then, once that takes no more, engine on.

Rev it bit to get the water pumpin.....

Water level will drop, keep topping up....

When fan cuts in your are up to temp and thats it.....

Your handbook will tell you how much water should be in the engine when done, so if you have some left in your watering can, you ain't done it right !!!

This works, cos I have done it on my JTD when it popped the bottom hose off while driving along one day..... FIN
 
Thanks but I'm pretty sure that wont work for me.

The mechanic said that the air will be at the highest point at the system, so to get this air out i must be released via the highest bleed screw but due to my car 1.2 8v the bleed lines are very close to the same level as the head of the engine where the mechanic believes the air is stuck so my bleeding doesn't really do anything. (jacking required to make the rad value highest)

The guy said that any air should return to the radiator water tank via a little valve in the radiator, but he suspects that this value is blocked therefore the air is being re circulated.

i will give this ago tomorrow,
 
i jacked it up, it seems abit better now but i never got it to 35 degrees tho. looks like i need a good angle if im gonna get it all out
 
You honestly need a proper car poster ramp however I done one yesterday on the ground no problem;
Set heater control to full hot/speed 3/4-remove rad screw-top up expansion tank till water pours out of rad screw,let it flow out for 10-15 seconds.Close rad screw & start engine & let run for a minute,then undo bleed screw on pipe,let it flow out for a minute then close-top tank to correct level.

If above & raising car dont help there is a modification available.
 
wot about a punto gt turbo is there bleed screws on it?

where about wud u get a haynes manual for one of these cars?
 
dave said:
why he got to Set heater control to full hot :confused:

apparently having full heaters on helps with maintaining pressure levels or something like that. I've been having this problem and have been quoted £375 for head gasket replacement / skimming. Said he might aswell change cam belt while he's there? does this price sound about right.

I ran some radiator sealant run through the system which seems to work. My heaters are now working well but on long trips I'm still losing water levels and get pressure build up. I've tried bleeding the system of air too, before running sealant through. It's not going too bad but I'm driving up to scotland in 3 weeks time and don't ant anything to go wrong.
 
T14086 said:
You honestly need a proper car poster ramp however I done one yesterday on the ground no problem;
Set heater control to full hot/speed 3/4-remove rad screw-top up expansion tank till water pours out of rad screw,let it flow out for 10-15 seconds.Close rad screw & start engine & let run for a minute,then undo bleed screw on pipe,let it flow out for a minute then close-top tank to correct level.

If above & raising car dont help there is a modification available.

Lol, Ican't for the love of me find the second bleed screw. I've done the one on the radiator. Does anyone have a pictures of where it is?
 
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