Hey guys, well I got a couple of question about my HGT.


1 - Oil cooler? Temperature gauge? Fitting to oil filter housing?
I have a coolant leak from the oil heat exchanger(oil filter housing) . I tried fixing it, tried sending it to the welding shop. still leaks (well now at least it doesn't drip) so I drive like that in the meantime. (I got a U-Shaped bypass in my car for any unfortunate that is to come with this cooler.)

Getting a new one is way out of reason. (around 450-600 US dollar for a new one, not going to risk for a second hand one) so I figured making an external air to oil cooler (10 rows or whatever that will do the trick) instead of the OEM coolant to oil cooler.

The thing is I want to know I am making the oil 'cooler' and really making an improvement instead of the opposite. so the car won't have trouble lets say on the track or long highway trips.

There are 2 Allen key bolts on the original OEM heat exchanger (part n. 60610797)
*I try to attach the pic I took from my car*

So I thought of ordering a temp gauge with a sensor to analyze the temperature with the OEM part and aftermarket cooler.
but I can't seem to find any that will fit right now.

I measured the Allen bolts on the cooler they're e.d. is 18mm.
I can't find any fitting right now or a sensor or a gauge that will do the trick.
any help in this matter will be highly appreciated. maybe I'm just overthinking things and should just make the 10-row ex. cooler and cancel the OEM one and that's it. but I want to be sure that's alright for this car.

I live in a hot country.



2nd question - Variator stalling engine/lack power on low revs when engine cold?
When I first start up the car and drive in the morning or evening after work I get lack power in the low rev range (up to 2,500ish) is sluggish sometimes and if I put my foot on the clutch car will stall without gas.
when it warms up, the car runs perfectly. no trouble, loads of power (for my taste haha) everything okay.

When the car stalls on cold, I try starting the engine and engine cranks 'easily' like there's low compression and the noise is exactly like the noise the engine makes when you do a compression check for the cylinders.

The variator has been last replaced in this car for 10 years. it's making noise in start-up sometimes (a little rarely but it does happen) sometimes there is ticking noise from the engine in the 3000-4000rpm range.
I suspect the variator is being far gone in my car and causing me all this trouble.
is this what it's all about? (I overhauled the engine, new sensors all the way around. installed catch can. cleaned the intake piping all the way thru including throttle and sensor carefully of course)


tho I must say when I install the catch can (and not open to atmosphere) it does get worse on the startup.

And if the variator is at fault. i tried looking up the repair kit. are they any of success (eventho its kind of tricky to repair as I got it from the web. I'm a 10+ year mechanic so I don't really worry with fiddling wit spanners)

Thank everyone that helps. i tried searching the forum for a while now. found no relevant answers yet.

I just want to update here
I repaired the variator using a variator kit I found on ebay. they say its a modified return spring for the variator in the kit. so it should be better for longer. A pain of a job a bit.

About the oil fitting, these are M18x1.5. I ordered a couple of fittings m18x1.5 to AN-10. to 10 row oil cooler.
but you should consider getting an oil filter adapter because it will have a thermostat which will open the circuit only when the engine is hot.