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Tuning MK2 1.2 8v performance parts?

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Tuning MK2 1.2 8v performance parts?

cosmos1989

cosmos1989

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Why is it because my car has 8 valves less I can't find any performance parts, I thought about uprating my HT leads, backbox and few other little bits and found all the ones I could find are all for the 16v.

I maybe missing something here but does anyone have any advice?

(besides getting a 16v punto).
 
m20b25 said:
A decent exhaust system will liberate a few bhp as well as a remap and a bored out tb are good starts. Also if you want to go into fine details get the flywheel lightened and a 6 speed box..... Or get a 16v :D
Click to expand...

Argh not a 16v! lol thanks for the advice though very good, for some reaosn I didn't think about a remap, aren't they quite costly though?

Performance exhaust is another thing I can't seem to find, without having to make some major modifications, I only wanted a bigger backbox as well.

sorry a bored out tb?

EDIT - Thottle body, got it...
 
Last edited:
God damn it! Ok, can't even find a strut brace for my config of car.

Does the world just hate 8v puntos? Never was into my cars much before I bought this one, but now I'm a little obsessed so I want to squeeze what I can out of this car.

Can't find any good backboxes except *shudder* universal ones either.
 
You could talk to people like Beowulf who make bike exhausts but also do custom jobs. It will be loud though.

The strut brace should fit the 8V and the 16V. A sump bash plate also stiffens the front body.

For engine tuning, go and get a book by this guy http://www.allbookstores.com/author/David_Vizard.html.

I had his tuning the "Tuning the A-Series Engine..." an amazing store of info. Most of stuff is relevant for any engine especially the gas flow and head porting work.

He does (did) a great section on making a 1.25" SU carb flow the same as a 1.5". Do that on a throttle body (without taking out the flow measurement sensor) and you will see a better flow.

For the exhaust you could make up your own headers. Google header pipe calculator to find software to work out the pipe lengths and diameters. Preformed tube bends can bought so no need for a bending machine just weld them up.
 
WhiteSei said:
You could talk to people like Beowulf who make bike exhausts but also do custom jobs. It will be loud though.

The strut brace should fit the 8V and the 16V. A sump bash plate also stiffens the front body.

For engine tuning, go and get a book by this guy http://www.allbookstores.com/author/David_Vizard.html.

I had his tuning the "Tuning the A-Series Engine..." an amazing store of info. Most of stuff is relevant for any engine especially the gas flow and head porting work.

He does (did) a great section on making a 1.25" SU carb flow the same as a 1.5". Do that on a throttle body (without taking out the flow measurement sensor) and you will see a better flow.

For the exhaust you could make up your own headers. Google header pipe calculator to find software to work out the pipe lengths and diameters. Preformed tube bends can bought so no need for a bending machine just weld them up.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much WhiteSei some great tips there I will defo look into the David Vizard books.

I'm rather new to all this but I'm picking things up and it's all very interesting! As for the throttle body, I may leave that I've heard they're rather delicate on 8v engines.

I've seen a few £30 strut braces I will probs the sellers to see whether they can confirm (in writing) it will fit - seems simple enough to fit.

Again thanks for your help, much appreciated!
 
Unless you really need the chassis stiffening up, strut braces just add weight. I would do the other stuff first and eventually make my own strut brace.
 
I didn't think they were THAT heavy to be honest but fair enough, I wouldn't mind the extra stiffness as the car does roll rather a lot.

I'll see what I can do with my limited car abilities.

It's a learning process! A fun one though!

Hoping to get these (if I don't get overly outbidded) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270601604270
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Basiclly i spend like that much and the qaulity isnt very good, makes a good note though - sportex.

If i could chose again, i would get supersprint, around £200 i believe.

cba to spend anymore on exhausts lol
 
cosmos1989 said:
I didn't think they were THAT heavy to be honest but fair enough, I wouldn't mind the extra stiffness as the car does roll rather a lot.
Click to expand...

I was being a bit cheeky, but here's the issue. The strut brace stops the body flexing as much as it normally does. A good one should mean the dash doesn't rattle so badly when you hit a bump. A sump bash plate/undertray does a similar job AND protects the engine but deffo add more weight.

Neither will do anything for body roll. That's caused by:
# Soft dampers in the suspension - they can be soft and comfy or just worn out.
# Weak or non existent anti roll bar or the bushes that carry the bar are worn. A stiffer bar give less body roll.

The wheels are linked across the car so the one with the least grip is used to push the other one down to correct the body roll. A stiff anti roll bar can make the handling worse, but so can one that's too soft. As ever, a compromise.
 
WhiteSei said:
I was being a bit cheeky, but here's the issue. The strut brace stops the body flexing as much as it normally does. A good one should mean the dash doesn't rattle so badly when you hit a bump. A sump bash plate/undertray does a similar job AND protects the engine but deffo add more weight.

Neither will do anything for body roll. That's caused by:
# Soft dampers in the suspension - they can be soft and comfy or just worn out.
# Weak or non existent anti roll bar or the bushes that carry the bar are worn. A stiffer bar give less body roll.

The wheels are linked across the car so the one with the least grip is used to push the other one down to correct the body roll. A stiff anti roll bar can make the handling worse, but so can one that's too soft. As ever, a compromise.
Click to expand...

Ah, I think it's the car not the parts that's making it roll - then again always worth having a look once I've bought myself a jacking kit.

Thanks again everyone for the help, I'm going to keep adding little bits and any and all advice is welcome.

I'll give the brace strut a miss for now and concentrate on some of the small basic mods, exhaust, HT leads etc etc etc. (whatever I can figure out).
 
m20b25 said:
A decent exhaust system will liberate a few bhp as well as a remap and a bored out tb are good starts. Also if you want to go into fine details get the flywheel lightened and a 6 speed box..... Or get a 16v :D
Click to expand...
Is 6 speed gearbox a good upgrade?? I got a mk1 punto with 5 speed and motorways aren't too quiet lol. I have to go 60max most of the time... are the ratios better or is it just got another gear on the end? I will be doing flywheel lightening when my clutch goes, so might do the 6 speed gearbox too
 
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