Technical Gearbox oil leak

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Technical Gearbox oil leak

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Hi there I noticed while changing the oil on the missus Evo(1.4 8v 2011)
That there was oil staining around the driveshaft on passenger side.
On closer inspection I saw the hub was proud slightly by about 5mm , and from experience I know it should be well seated and thus make an oil tight seal. I pushed it back in topped up with oil and she rang me today saying there was oil pooling up under the car..
Upon inspection this evening i can easily move the hub in and out of the diff carrier on this side.

Question is are the sprung loaded clip a replaceable item? As that is what keeps it securely sealed right?
Any suggestions to fix this?
Pics below
 

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Yes and yes
Plus maybe replace the oil seal and clean up the inner cv where the oil seal runs.

Try j and r drive shafts for the spring clip.
 
So it's a circlip I need and oil seal I need.
I've took the one off and back on, just to see if it'll resit properly in the gearbox, but I had to squeeze the circlip back into a semicircle as such as it deformed.. are the new ones going to 100% return to the right size shape. As when I refitted it, it needed more force to get it in, then easily pulled back out.
 
The new ones should go on without deforming or how would they be fitted in first place. Be gentle and slide clip on from the end.
 
We (that is Kenny Harrison's merry men) had exactly that driveshaft out of my boy's 2012 8 valve Punto Easy a wee while ago when they put a new clutch in it for me. I was actually dropping off a couple of bottles of Technyx gear oil at the moment they were disconnecting it and it took a fairly violent "tug" on a long handled pry bar to get it to pop out. It's only the circlip which holds it in so almost certainly that's what's weakened on yours but I'd be having a careful look into the side of the diff just to check there's nothing going on with the groove in the diff bevel gear where it fits. A lot of manufacturers use this retaining method and, in my experience, they usually require a quite "determined" application of force to get them to move. I have a nice long Melco tyre lever which works well most of the time but I've also had to resort to a hammer and wedge shaped chisel on occasion. On the old BL stuff the big problem used to be when the snap ring digs into the edge of the outer splines - then you've really got a problem! The outer CVs were retained to the shaft with rings like these and I've seen whole shaft assemblies being scrapped because it was not possible to get the CV off the end of the shaft - fortunately a rare occurrence.

As Jack suggests, for all a seal costs why wouldn't you replace it while you've got the shaft out - unless it's been very recently replaced anyway? also cleaning up the rubbing surface on the inner CV where the seal runs is just common sense isn't it. I like to thoroughly degrease the local area and then use a fine wet and dry because I think with wet and dry there's less chance of carborundum dust being left behind. Then a wee smear of vaseline to let it all slide together nicely and protect the new seal over it's first few revs.

Of course it's very obvious in this case where the oil is leaking from but if you are looking at yours, anyone? and you see oil around this area then be aware that yes, it may well be the drive shaft seal but it may very well be the gearchange actuating rod seal on top of the box allowing oil to dribble down onto the inner driveshaft joint. I've been fooled by that one in the past. Of course, if you're really unlucky, it could be both!
 
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So. I've tried 2 circlips now and it just pulls out still as easy as before.. the clips look identical in size.. is there any other reason it won't seat and stay there?
Hmmm. That sounds strange doesn't it. There's only one thing that comes to mind which is - are you being quite forceful about seating it? Sometimes if you just gently push this type of shaft into place it all looks very nice and everything seems to be properly seated but the ring will only expand out into the dif gear if the shaft is really rammed home with some quite considerable force. Just pushing the shaft into place is sometimes not sufficient to do this. The inner tripod joint is a "plunge" joint so the drive shaft can move linearly in and out of it. You can use this to your advantage by plunging the outer CV and shaft towards the gearbox in effect using it like a slide hammer. Obviously you don't want to go totally ape with this or damage to the tripod needles may result but it's a robust construction and doing this, using "sensible" force has always worked for me up 'till now without ever damaging anything.

Alternatively, if you're not confident in doing this you can release the inner joint rubber boot enough to allow you to place something like a piece of hardwood against the rim of the joint so you can then clout the bit of wood and drive the joint inwards towards the gearbox. Unfortunately this usually results in the boot clip being destroyed when you remove it but new clips are available and actually I've had great success by winding galvanized iron wire twice round the boot and twisting it 'till it's tight on the boot. You need to shift the boot otherwise it'll be cut by the, relatively sharp edge of the joint when you hit the bit of wood. Don't hit the joint directly with a hammer because it's hardened so brittle and you may get bits chipping off.

From what you are describing I think it's very likely that the shaft with the circlip on just isn't quite getting pushed far enough "home" for the clip to fully spring out. it's probably only missing it by a mere "smidgeon" and a good "tap" will seat it. - Then again, being as I'm not infallible and don't have a crystal ball, maybe not?

PS Mostly the problems I've had with this sort of ring is either that it breaks (often when being removed) so, no longer being a circle, it can't exert radial force on the diff gear so it won't hold - or with it jamming so you have great difficulty getting the joint to disengage from the box. I can't really remember having to replace one because it had become "weak". - Although maybe the manufacturers are concerned about this being a possibility because you'll often find a new "snap" ring included in repair kits.
 
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Hmmm. That sounds strange doesn't it. There's only one thing that comes to mind which is - are you being quite forceful about seating it? Sometimes if you just gently push this type of shaft into place it all looks very nice and everything seems to be properly seated but the ring will only expand out into the dif gear if the shaft is really rammed home with some quite considerable force. Just pushing the shaft into place is sometimes not sufficient to do this. The inner tripod joint is a "plunge" joint so the drive shaft can move linearly in and out of it. You can use this to your advantage by plunging the outer CV and shaft towards the gearbox in effect using it like a slide hammer. Obviously you don't want to go totally ape with this or damage to the tripod needles may result but it's a robust construction and doing this, using "sensible" force has always worked for me up 'till now without ever damaging anything.

Alternatively, if you're not confident in doing this you can release the inner joint rubber boot enough to allow you to place something like a piece of hardwood against the rim of the joint so you can then clout the bit of wood and drive the joint inwards towards the gearbox. Unfortunately this usually results in the boot clip being destroyed when you remove it but new clips are available and actually I've had great success by winding galvanized iron wire twice round the boot and twisting it 'till it's tight on the boot. You need to shift the boot otherwise it'll be cut by the, relatively sharp edge of the joint when you hit the bit of wood. Don't hit the joint directly with a hammer because it's hardened so brittle and you may get bits chipping off.

From what you are describing I think it's very likely that the shaft with the circlip on just isn't quite getting pushed far enough "home" for the clip to fully spring out. it's probably only missing it by a mere "smidgeon" and a good "tap" will seat it. - Then again, being as I'm not infallible and don't have a crystal ball, maybe not?

PS Mostly the problems I've had with this sort of ring is either that it breaks (often when being removed) so, no longer being a circle, it can't exert radial force on the diff gear so it won't hold - or with it jamming so you have great difficulty getting the joint to disengage from the box. I can't really remember having to replace one because it had become "weak". - Although maybe the manufacturers are concerned about this being a possibility because you'll often find a new "snap" ring included in repair kits.

I've already removed the driveshaft, I'll have another go tomorrow with whacking the hub with some 3by2 but I have been giving the hub some good whacks with a large hammer lol.

Just seems strange as to why its so slack in there for it to of come out in the first place.
 
Does sound strange doesn't it - can only say, so glad it's not mine! Although now I've got a non opening rear hatch on my boy's 2012 Punto Easy 1.4 8 valve to sort out! Might be a few things but most of my money is laid down on it being a broken wire in the rubber boot between the hatch and body. That should keep me out of trouble for a while? 21 inch long fingers needed perhaps?
 
How'd it go with the 3x2 Mike?

Perfect thanks. I had a good few knocks on it then it was nice and firm.in there, has not come back out yet...
BUT now I've got to change the Winfscreen on it, she got a stone flipped up by a truck, hit the side of the screen and cracked it pretty bad...
I've sourced a screen in Brum for 30 quid so going to fit it myself tomorrow..
 
Perfect thanks. I had a good few knocks on it then it was nice and firm.in there, has not come back out yet...
BUT now I've got to change the Winfscreen on it, she got a stone flipped up by a truck, hit the side of the screen and cracked it pretty bad...
I've sourced a screen in Brum for 30 quid so going to fit it myself tomorrow..
So pleased it seems to have worked for you. Sometimes you just have to get violent!

Wow. Doing a bonded windscreen yourself? All respect to you! Have you done one before? I watched a mobile fitter doing one just round the corner recently - came upon it whilst out for a Covid walk - Very entertaining, decided I'd leave it to a specialist if I need one ever.
 
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