Technical Panda 100HP Coolant Sensor Measured Value
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Technical Panda 100HP Coolant Sensor Measured Value
Test drove the car and my acceleration is up from 15 to 12 seconds. So definite improvement but if I compare 0-100 with internet videos, other 100hps seem to rev up quicker. My rpms seem to hang a bit.
So my question is, redline it and drop the clutch off the line? If I take it up to 4000 and let go of the clutch, I have to get back on it quick to build some rpm again. How does your 100HP respond?
So my question is, redline it and drop the clutch off the line? If I take it up to 4000 and let go of the clutch, I have to get back on it quick to build some rpm again. How does your 100HP respond?
Did you reset the ECU after fixing the vacuumleak?
gr J
gr J
Disconnect the battery for half an hour. ECU looses it's memory, goes back to factorysettings and (after reconnecting and driving) learns new fuelratio.
gr J
gr J
I’ll give it a go. The ecu was disconnected throughout the entire manifold job but I’m replacing the earth strap tomorrow as a final resort so I need to remove the battery.
Is there a hard reset to remove all saved data, ie number of over revs, long fuel trim and short etc?
Thank you for all the info. I really appreciate it!
Is there a hard reset to remove all saved data, ie number of over revs, long fuel trim and short etc?
Thank you for all the info. I really appreciate it!
So today I put a 15mm earth cable in as well as checked the evap valve that it does close when the car is switched off. I also reset the ecu and relearned the throttle. Took it for a drive and still hesitating on top end.. There's literally nothing more I can check.
Coils perhaps？
Btw when it idles in getting intermittent purrs if that makes sense. As in.. Smooth idle and then a pur then smooth idle and slight pur pur... Lol... I wouldn't say misfire just fluctuating idle.
Also noticing black carbon deposits on the rear of the car.. Like little black spots over the whole back end.
Coils perhaps？
Btw when it idles in getting intermittent purrs if that makes sense. As in.. Smooth idle and then a pur then smooth idle and slight pur pur... Lol... I wouldn't say misfire just fluctuating idle.
Also noticing black carbon deposits on the rear of the car.. Like little black spots over the whole back end.
Okay so the more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards timing.
If a car is advanced or retarted by a tooth, you will definitely see a loss in performance and driveability.
When I did the timing belt, the supplier did not have the 16v kit but they did have the 8v kit. Which I basically just used the crank lock and the belt tensioner tool, as far as the cams go, the gap in the camshaft is exactly 10mm, so I 3d printed a nut that fits the thread on the side of the special tool area on the cylinder head with an allen key cut out so that I can position a size 10 allen key through it. The fit was perfect and perfectly centered, also there is no way it could have moved from that position even if I tried.
Does the engine light illuminate when the timing is out on these cars? My obd tool, under start sequence does say: allowed. So usually that means the ecu is happy with the cam and crankshaft sensor position?
Has anybody changed their own cambelt on here?
If a car is advanced or retarted by a tooth, you will definitely see a loss in performance and driveability.
When I did the timing belt, the supplier did not have the 16v kit but they did have the 8v kit. Which I basically just used the crank lock and the belt tensioner tool, as far as the cams go, the gap in the camshaft is exactly 10mm, so I 3d printed a nut that fits the thread on the side of the special tool area on the cylinder head with an allen key cut out so that I can position a size 10 allen key through it. The fit was perfect and perfectly centered, also there is no way it could have moved from that position even if I tried.
Does the engine light illuminate when the timing is out on these cars? My obd tool, under start sequence does say: allowed. So usually that means the ecu is happy with the cam and crankshaft sensor position?
Has anybody changed their own cambelt on here?
If the crankshaft is rotated set on the mark, and the camshafts are lining up on the marks, then the valve timing is correct.
There is only one answer, it is either correct or not correct.
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If you have a missfire caused by missing sparks, the unused oxygen going down the exhaust causes the ECU to increase the fuel/air ratio. The effect on the O2 sensors is the same as engine running weak. Sooty exhaust results.
www.multiecuscan.net has data logging features which would allow you to see if there is a missfire at any point in the rev range.
An alternative cause of mucky marks on the back of the car is an oil leak. Check the gearbox gear shift seal and of course the drive shafts. Obviously check the engine for leaks as well.
www.multiecuscan.net has data logging features which would allow you to see if there is a missfire at any point in the rev range.
An alternative cause of mucky marks on the back of the car is an oil leak. Check the gearbox gear shift seal and of course the drive shafts. Obviously check the engine for leaks as well.
