Is this a known fault?

Basically when the window gets to about half way through travel (up or down) then is a horrible clunking/ scraping sound as if something is obstructing it in the door area?

How do I remove the door card without damaging anything? Is it easy? Any photos of the door internals + removing & fitting anyone?

Thanks all!

Not tried to fix it, but mine does a slight clunk when nearly all the way down.

Yup, mine had this too. 57 plate 100HP with 13k.
It had a slight clunk halfway down its travel. It has mysteriously dissapeared now though.. Not a sound or squeek from it anymore..

Before you dismantle anything, the noises may be due to the glass sticking or catching in the seal as it descends.
Wind the window down and spray the seal channel, especially at the rear, with silicone spray. The clear spray that is used to make black plastic body parts look black again will do this. Avoid the spray getting onto the glass as it is hard to remove.
Wind the window up and down a few times and see if that helps.

Ive now had this on both sides of the car. It was down to a small yellow plastic clip attached to bottom of the window. I'm not sure of its purpose but i would assume its a guide of some description.

To remove the door panel you need to take out the two phillips head screws at the bottom of the door. Then remove the fake tweater grill by the door lever (it just pops off) and the panel around the lever itself. You'll also need to pop off the bit of trim that covers directly behind the wing mirror.

Behind the 'back of the lever' one should be and allen head bolt, remove this.




Remove also the screw behind the tweater panel.

I think theres another one directly behind the grab handle thats a bit of a bitch to get at as its so deep.



You then need to give the panel a good pull all the way round as its held on by about ten funny little push fit red thingys (technical term). Once youve got your finger in just keep tugging it'll pop off soon enough.



Lift the panel up to unhook the window seal.

Unless you've got some one with you who can hold the panel up you'll also need to unscrew the door lever from the back of the panel. There's three small screws in there but once they're out it should come out easy enough.

Now put the panel somewhere safe. If quite soft plastic so be carefull as it will mark up easy.

I haven't got a picutre of these bits, sorry.

To see what going on inside the door you will then need to cut the white membrane. Be careful not to go through it too deep and scratch the window. Once you've opened that if you move the window up and down you should see the offending bit of yellow plastic attached to the bottom of the window. One side of mine had a bit poking out that was causing the noise so i cut it off and the ohter side just popped of.

The yellow thing should look like this...



Once removed the window should run smoothly again.

Now seal up the membrane and re-assemble the door reversing the steps above. The worst bit of this is re-attaching the door lever as you have to hold it in the open position to slide it back through its gap in the panel.

Once back together everthing should be fine. As i said i've done this twice now and haven't had a problem since! Hope this sorts it for you!

that would make an awesome guide, hint hint.

Door lever bit can just be unhooked by turning the plastic clip.

100hpJames said:

that would make an awesome guide, hint hint.

Door lever bit can just be unhooked by turning the plastic clip.

Click to expand...

Didn't know that about the door lever. I broke one once on an old astra i had and had to open the door by opening the window.

Didn't know there was a guides section either... just seen it. dam. :bang:

hehe I'm sure the mods can sort it for you

the release cable slots through a hole on the lever, and is held in by a clip, bit of a bugger if you forget to reconnect it then refit the card, only made that mistake once

Mine does this. I made Fiat try to rectify it, they greased everything but it is still present. It is irritating that they cant seem to fix what apparently is a common fault.