General WARNING & Help required.

Alan.D · Nov 27, 2005

WARNING BIT Just to let you Lad's n lassies Know. The car suddenly lost power and engine started to rattle/pink as if the timing was well out, well it was the timing belt tensioner bearing failed but gave no warning other than the timing going out have a look at the pic below. The knackered one is on the left and can hardly move in any direction and although it doesn't look it the one on the right is as smooth as silk.

HELP Bit as a result I need someone to post a pic of where the timing marks meet on the crankshaft pully and camshaft pully, as I might as well change the timing belt at the same time, I can't find my bleeding maintenance manual anywhere?

christopher watson · Nov 27, 2005

ignition timing (static or at idle with vacuum advance hose detached and plugged) 2 degrees BTDC.

sorry alan, read the post wrong :bang:

rrockettman · Nov 27, 2005

I've done it myself several times but have no piccies. I can't remember off hand how I lined it all up.
lightweightmick put the information up thisafternoon, with pictures, but it vanished. He will be putting it on again soon. You could always send him a pm.
Good job the Panda is a safe engine.

Steven · Nov 27, 2005

Bad luck Alan, luckily it's a non-interferance engine so you'd have been ok anyway. No such problems on the chain driven 903cc. If you fancy a straight swap let me know.

Steven · Nov 27, 2005

3 posts all at exactly the same time!

Alan.D · Nov 27, 2005

The belt just slipped a couple of notches making the car pink like hell and seriously lacking in power so stopped using it straight away and just found the cause tonight I think the timing mark on the camshaft is a little notch on the body of the timing cover. I'll wait for mick to stick the post back on or if not PM him later.

Steve NO CHANCE

Thanks for such quick replies.

lightweightmick · Nov 27, 2005

hi alan, sorry for not being on sooner m8.
I put my post up earlier but as I've got 20 pics was having a bit of trouble trying to insert them into the text.
Hope this helps:

Alan.D · Nov 27, 2005

Spot on Mick THANKS just one small question I can see the timing mark on the Crank pully but not the mark where it aligns to? although using 9 o clock will probably suffice .

John H · Nov 28, 2005

TDC mark at the flywheel shown above is the same position for the crank as the belt marker at the other end.

lightweightmick · Nov 28, 2005

TDC mark on the flywheel is more accurate but arrow (white) shows step in the cover which is the timing mark. If you need to time the engine from scratch (ie. on re-build or belt broke), the rotor arm should point to N0 1 plug lead (crank turns twice to the camshafts once) or you could be 180 degs out!

(note: marks are not lined up in this pic.)

Alan.D · Nov 28, 2005

Wasn't thinking about the timing mark on the flywheel :bang: must have had a brain fart

I must thank you all for your quick replies :worship: gentlemen all.

BTW bought a new timing belt this afternoon a grand total of £3.88 the old one looks like new but may as well change it whilst I got the chance. I was going to fit tonight but got tomorrow off so will do it then

Brrrrrrrrrr

lightweightmick · Nov 28, 2005

Hope it stays fine or you can get under cover Alan! Good luck m8!

Alan.D · Nov 28, 2005

Doubt that'll hapen as the garage is full of crap but it shouldn't take long so hopefully take it for a run by mid morning, there's no snow here there never bleeding is.

lightweightmick · Nov 28, 2005

Alan.D said:
...garage is full of crap

he he... sounds familiar

Alan.D · Nov 28, 2005

No Joke mate

Tony M · Nov 28, 2005

It must be hard getting to the half of the dart board that is covered... sort of limits your choice of finishing moves.

ever considered shelves?... i know it worked wonders in my cellar. i no longer have to tried through piles of items.

steel shelves just the ticket.

John H · Nov 28, 2005

lightweightmick said:
TDC mark on the flywheel is more accurate but arrow (white) shows step in the cover which is the timing mark. If you need to time the engine from scratch (ie. on re-build or belt broke), the rotor arm should point to N0 1 plug lead (crank turns twice to the camshafts once) or you could be 180 degs out!

While not trying to be picky..

The crank has the bigger pulley, and the camshaft turns twice for the crankshaft once, not the other way around

TDC is TDC - if you turn the crankshaft 360 degrees number 1 and 4 are still at the top.

Alan.D · Nov 28, 2005

Tony M said:
It must be hard getting to the half of the dart board that is covered... sort of limits your choice of finishing moves.

ever considered shelves?... i know it worked wonders in my cellar. i no longer have to tried through piles of items.

steel shelves just the ticket.

One of those things mate I know my filing system

Dartboard ain't been used in years don't know why

Alan.D · Nov 28, 2005

John H said:
While not trying to be picky..

The crank has the bigger pulley, and the camshaft turns twice for the crankshaft once, not the other way around

TDC is TDC - if you turn the crankshaft 360 degrees number 1 and 4 are still at the top.

Thanks John I knew what Mick meant.

lightweightmick · Nov 28, 2005

Hi John, not mixing our shafts up?

...you soon won't be...
To avoid confusion I think we need to be picky!
Here's a great link just to remind us all how a 4 stroke engine works:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_stroke_cycle
er... note how many times the crankshaft revolves.
1st revolution = induction stroke (down) & then up = compression stroke
2nd revolution = power stroke (down again)-this is the one that make the wheels go round! (then up again) = exhaust stroke
While no1 and no4 are both at the top of their respective strokes, trust me you want the valves to be closed at no1 - hence the camshaft timing mark showing no1 TDC.
Hope that's cleared that up!

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