Technical fuel smell in car

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Technical fuel smell in car

Sorry we have been away we have a sealant by Permatex called "The Right Stuff" but any good quality automotive sealant would do. It just has to be impervious to petrol. I tried to find an aftermarket grommet to seal the hole in the tank but no luck so I sealed the originals. They still have the original valves in them. It's just that one is capped off and the other is teed to the fuel inlet overflow pipe. The car runs great and absolutely no smell.
 
Good article but the chap found it too difficult to remove the two vent valve without destroying them and he replaced them. These valve are no longer available new.
Also I found that removal of the plate behind the seats is not too difficult and unnecessary to cut it in half. Once all the bolts are removed and the two plastic side covers for the roof telescopic arms, while looking towards the plate, slide it fully left and gently prise it up and out towards the right. Yes it is quite a jiggle.
Steved
 
Just got my tank back from the cleaners without 10 years of crud in it. It's an old guy in Manchester who did it (84 years old) and he said it was a nightmare to do. He only charged me 60 quid and it looks spotless.
The vapour valves are shot as is the pump seal, but I am going to put a punto pump in for the first few hundred miles in case there are any bits of crud that catch in the pump. I can get a ready supply of these from the breakers for £15 a time and have already ruined one before I discovered how bad the tank was. The punto pump is a tiny bit wider so I have sealed it with the rubber ring and some blue hydromar petrol proof gasket seal.
I am waiting for hank to get back to me re the rubbers.

Do they need greasing to get them in place or will they just pop in there with the valves foillowing ?
I usually drop rubbers into hot water for 10 minutes to soften them up as well.
 
after I removed the plastic valves and carefully removed the rubber grommets, the sealant I used on them was enough lubricant to again carefully reinstall them. heaven forbid you should shove them into the tank. Once installed the sealant sets in a few minutes after which I reinstalled the valves. I have removed the bulkhead from both sides without removing the seats but I think the passenger side is better. The biggest difficulty is trying not to mark up the plastic trim .Also better done with the roof open(y) also check out" 8th Annual Italian Car Day!-Boyd Conservation Area", facebook, you can see my little teal B beside my buddies silver one near the end of the video.
 
after I removed the plastic valves and carefully removed the rubber grommets, the sealant I used on them was enough lubricant to again carefully reinstall them. heaven forbid you should shove them into the tank. Once installed the sealant sets in a few minutes after which I reinstalled the valves. I have removed the bulkhead from both sides without removing the seats but I think the passenger side is better. The biggest difficulty is trying not to mark up the plastic trim .Also better done with the roof open(y) also check out" 8th Annual Italian Car Day!-Boyd Conservation Area", facebook, you can see my little teal B beside my buddies silver one near the end of the video.

What sealant did you use.
 
it is called "The Right Stuff", by Permatex

Ah right, it's a liquid gasket maker.

I always used hylomar blue for fuel as it's one of the best and easiest to get. I'll keep an eye out for 'The Right Stuff'.
 
So my tank seals arrived today from Italy.
The old seals were absolutely melted and rotten.
I installed the 2 plastic valves and I have managed to break one of them which had become very brittle. I tried to remove it so I could epoxy it but that didn't end well and now it's in many pieces.

I now have the 2 rubber seals and the passenger valve sat nicely in one of them. Obviously I could blank off the hole and just bypass the system running to fresh air, or even run just the one valve into the segregator but that's a last resort.

Does anyone have any idea where i could get a valve from ?

My understanding is the rubber valves fit the following

Panda 900
Fiat Barchetta
Fiat XR 1000 1994-1995
y10 ZL 1988 1992
y10 ZM 1992 1995
FIAT FIORINO RL
 
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OK the t3 breather valve is slightly smaller than the Barchetta one.
The Barchetta one is 28mm diameter and the t3 is 23.5mm diameter. Also the pipe is 6mm as opposed to 8mm on the Barchetta.
I can get over the pipe size, but the diameter is an issue which would require some sort of sealant or wrap adding which is too much messing for me at this point.
It MAY be the gromet for the T3 is tighter but as I have the Barchetta gromet I don't know.


I have got a second hand valve from a Barchetta so I am now sorted.
 
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Hi StevePD. I can tell you only what I have done here, but it may not be kosher in your case. The fuel vapor solenoid that is operated by the ECM is fastened to the carbon charcoal canister under the passenger fender. The fuel vapor separator is above the fuel tank under the rear wing ,drivers side. Believe me nothing ever goes wrong with the separator it has no moving parts. The two valves on the top of the tank each have a hose attached to them leading to the separator. Then a hose travels from there to the canister and from there to the intake manifold. The real problem is the solenoid stops working, the return fuel rail pushing unused fuel back to the tank pressurises the tank. The whole system is blocked because the solenoid wont open. Do you hear a hiss when you release the fuel cap. Not good. I removed the hose from the valve closest to the separator and sealed the valve outlet. With the other valve next to the fuel inlet I ran a hose from it to the overflow line that runs from the fuel cap down through the floor. The tank is now always at atmospheric pressure. No muss, no fuss, no smell. But as I said it may not be kosher. But at least I know my car wont blow up!!
I have this problem since 2017 and seems no solution. Do you mean you have disconnected the carbon canister from the tank do the car is running without gas vapor provide from carbon canister now. Thanks
 
Hi StevePD. I can tell you only what I have done here, but it may not be kosher in your case. The fuel vapor solenoid that is operated by the ECM is fastened to the carbon charcoal canister under the passenger fender. The fuel vapor separator is above the fuel tank under the rear wing ,drivers side. Believe me nothing ever goes wrong with the separator it has no moving parts. The two valves on the top of the tank each have a hose attached to them leading to the separator. Then a hose travels from there to the canister and from there to the intake manifold. The real problem is the solenoid stops working, the return fuel rail pushing unused fuel back to the tank pressurises the tank. The whole system is blocked because the solenoid wont open. Do you hear a hiss when you release the fuel cap. Not good. I removed the hose from the valve closest to the separator and sealed the valve outlet. With the other valve next to the fuel inlet I ran a hose from it to the overflow line that runs from the fuel cap down through the floor. The tank is now always at atmospheric pressure. No muss, no fuss, no smell. But as I said it may not be kosher. But at least I know my car wont blow up!!
I have this problem since 2017 and seems no solution. Do you mean you have disconnected the carbon canister from the tank do the car is running without gas vapor provide from carbon canister now. Thanks I
mine came out no problem at all and I have abandoned them. The evap system is no longer operative as explained in a previous post. the tank is vented via the fuel cap overflow pipe and the evap feed to the intake manifold has been capped. The car runs excellent and not a hint of fuel smell. not quite kosher but she does less than 12K a year and there is no longer the threat of going out in a blaze of glory
do you mean your car is running with using carbon canister? Thanks
 
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