Punto (Mk2/2b) Replace clutch Punto year 2000

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Punto (Mk2/2b) Replace clutch Punto year 2000

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Feb 17, 2013
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Hi there

Can you advise the steps needed to replace the clutch on my daughters Punto.

I want to attempt this job, otherwise we will need to scrap the car as we cannot afford the garage price. :(

Thank you
 
Hello,
assuming it's a 5 speed manual Petrol car,
it's a RELATIVELY straightforward job,

basically there is a "bell-housing" ( shaped like a bell - on it's side)

on the end of the gearbox - this BELL has a series of bolt -holes around it's edge - bolts go through into the engine casting,

to remove the gearbox you will need to;

support the engine,

remove the "ring" of bolts + nuts,

remove a fair-few other ancillary items that are in the way / connected,
battery tray , clutch cylinder, gear linkages, starter motor, LH Driveshaft / supension

and probably drop the front ( downpipe) of the exhaust.

only " special tools" required will be for aligning the new clutch in the flywheel

job should take around 4/6 hours for a DIY mechanic..allow ALL-DAY if your still learning - refering to a manual at every stage..,
BUT of course you will have it ALL done for the price of a clutch-pack ( £60),

there are bound to be guides on here for a LOT of the work,
samwe basic job for MOST of the petrol fiats 1995 /2005,
Cinq , punto,
Strada , uno,
etc.

Charlie
 
Easiest way is to undo the innermost clip on the inner CV joint (replace with big tie wrap). Undo the bottom two strut nuts and bolts (a good clean and a spray at least the day before with Plus Gas or GR-85 -- much, much, better for this than WD 40, although owt is better than nowt) and use 2 six sided sockets (not spanners) on the bolt sets. They can be a pig to undo. From memory, 1 is 18mm, 1 19mm. Locvktite or new nylocks on re-assembly.

All detail removal covered in the Haynes, but their way of dismantling the hub nuts and ball joints is wasteful and usually incurs damage. There's just enough woggle room (pull on the hubs) for the driveshafts to drop clear,

Extra pair of hands useful, and don't forget to remove the starter motor.

For less than a tenner, a Clutch Mate is well worth having.
 
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Easiest way is to undo the innermost clip on the inner CV joint (replace with big tie wrap). Undo the bottom two strut nuts and bolts (a good clean and a spray at least the day before with Plus Gas or GR-85 -- much, much, better for this than WD 40, although owt is better than nowt) and use 2 six sided sockets (not spanners) on the bolt sets. They can be a pig to undo. From memory, 1 is 18mm, 1 19mm. Locvktite or new nylocks on re-assembly.

All detail removal covered in the Haynes, but their way of dismantling the hub nuts and ball joints is wasteful and usually incurs damage. There's just enough woggle room (pull on the hubs) for the driveshafts to drop clear,

Extra pair of hands useful, and don't forget to remove the starter motor.


Yes - all true , that's why I didn't recommend blowing £15 / £20 on a modern HAYNES manual - very little in them -all MOT junk.

better getting a Mk1 manual off ebay for £5 - covers more mechanical detail

here a link to the mechanically similar Cinq -from the GUIDES;

https://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecen...utch-cinquecento-sporting-1-1-ohc-engine.html

first question though MUST be,
has the clutch been slowly slipping and slipping until it's now U/S ?,
or has it just "failed" ?,
there may be another (simpler) explanation AND Cure,
Charlie
 
Offtopic: I'm sorry, but how much do mechanics want for a clutch replacement, for a car to be deemd unworthy of such work? I just did mine, 88€ for a LUK clutch set and my local wrench man quoted me a price of 80€ for the labour.

How the UK prices for labour are so inflated is beyond me. I remember Edd China from Wheeler Dealers saying stuff like "a garage will want a 100 quid to do this". And it was maybe an hour of metal welding or something trivial like that.. o.0
 
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You'd have thought "Mr.Clutch" would be getting better results at it by now then ;),
Charlie

Ha after finding out what they do when fitting them with my punto it explains alot!

Anyway,
Battery - Battery tray - Crack top gearbox Main nut - Slave cylinder - Earthing Strap - reverse sensor - 3x bolts holding gearlinkage in place - pop linkage joints - Disconnect starter motor resting to one side - crack the 3 main top bellhousing bolts - Raise car up - wheels off - Drain Box of fluid - Speedo Sensor wiring - Rear dogbone Gearbox nut and bolt - Bottom ball joints / Suspension joints undone - pull shafts out the gearbox - Remove remaining underside gearbox bolts inc engine to gearbox support bracket - Dont forget to undo the 18mm Bolt holding the Gearbox Stud as well - Pull gearbox out

using a big screwdriver and 1x Bellhousing bolt
Pin the flywheel in place while clutch bolts removed
Note orientation of the clutch boss
Refit new clutch (loose)
Alignment tool to align clutch - Tighten and torque up

its then a nice long case of - rebolting everything back on once the box is back in!

Might have missed 1 or 2 steps, but i've spent 6hours today removing my gearbox, but i've have a horrible removal as you guess - lots of sezied bolts :(

Ziggy
 
I did say "backstreet". Franchises tend to be expensive and of variable quality.


Mr.Clutch Variable quality? PAH!!

all i ever hear is people saying something still isn't right!

As i've said before, my car was brought by me - but didnt see the Mr.Clutch invoice for a new clutch only 5k when i got it - hopeless to say i've found out why!

Ziggy
 
Ha after finding out what they do when fitting them with my punto it explains alot!

Anyway,
Battery - Battery tray - Crack top gearbox Main nut - Slave cylinder - Earthing Strap - reverse sensor - 3x bolts holding gearlinkage in place - pop linkage joints - Disconnect starter motor resting to one side - crack the 3 main top bellhousing bolts - Raise car up - wheels off - Drain Box of fluid - Speedo Sensor wiring - Rear dogbone Gearbox nut and bolt - Bottom ball joints / Suspension joints undone - pull shafts out the gearbox - Remove remaining underside gearbox bolts inc engine to gearbox support bracket - Dont forget to undo the 18mm Bolt holding the Gearbox Stud as well - Pull gearbox out

using a big screwdriver and 1x Bellhousing bolt
Pin the flywheel in place while clutch bolts removed
Note orientation of the clutch boss
Refit new clutch (loose)
Alignment tool to align clutch - Tighten and torque up

its then a nice long case of - rebolting everything back on once the box is back in!

Might have missed 1 or 2 steps, but i've spent 6hours today removing my gearbox, but i've have a horrible removal as you guess - lots of sezied bolts :(

Ziggy


why not just split the shafts from the inner joints so as you dont touch the gearbox oil
biggest pain is geting the gearbox to line back up without damaging the clutch plate
gearbox removals are never nice
cant beat the old vauxhalls where you just pulled out the input shaft and slipped a new plate and diaphragm in:D
 
why not just split the shafts from the inner joints so as you dont touch the gearbox oil
biggest pain is geting the gearbox to line back up without damaging the clutch plate
gearbox removals are never nice
cant beat the old vauxhalls where you just pulled out the input shaft and slipped a new plate and diaphragm in:D


Ah thats cause my box oil was not a nice colour and i still know if box is at fault yet

Wonder how the astra's is like, never done one before i'd love to see it been done!

Ziggy
 
I always take the shafts out of the box rather than splitting the inner joints. The reason for this is the driver's side driveshaft cup gets in the way when you're trying to refit the box. With nothing in the way and a large stud to help locate, the box normally goes straight back in.
 
thank you all for your advice. Clutch kit can be purchased for £63 with 2 year guarantee. Garage wanted £400 to supply and fit. so we are going to give it a go on Sunday. wish me luck

I will let you know how we get on

thanks again

Great forum :worship:
 
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