Technical Procedure for changing drop links

[Rennie]

Hi Fellow Fiat Fans

Its reached the point where I have to change the drop links, I cant stand the knock everytime I hit a pot hole, speed hump or mount the kerb. Can you fine gentleman (and ladies of course) talk me through the procedure step by step to ensure that I avoid the disasters waiting me under wheel arch.

I can see that the arm bolts at the lowest point to the anti-roll bar and at its highest to the strut, but Im sure theres more too it than undoing the bolts and swapping it over, so (please) hook me up dudes:slayer:

Cheers (in advance)

 

[Tomasso]

Nothing but a undo/redo procedure. Easy-peasy!

On reassembly you will have to use some kind of lever to raise the ARB to line up a mounting hole with a bolt on the link.

 

[bulldog5046]

Nothing but a undo/redo procedure. Easy-peasy!

On reassembly you will have to use some kind of lever to raise the ARB to line up a mounting hole with a bolt on the link.

put the link on the ARB first then jack up the suspension arm to get it on the shock

 

[Hellcat]

Talking of ARB... are the bushes replacable?

 

[bulldog5046]

i've been lead to understand they are but a complete..... something..... to change.

i'll let you try first

 

[jug]

Talking of ARB... are the bushes replacable?

the drop link comes with all the arb bushes

or do you mean the rubber buffers that go between the arb and the brackets that hold the arb to the subframe? if you mean the buffers, yes they are replacable, you need to disconnect the drop link at both ends of the arb first. then getting access to the arb bracket bolts is a tad tricky on both sides due to space limitations (ratchet offset ring spanner advisable).

 

[Tomasso]

you need to disconnect the drop link at both ends of the arb first. then getting access to the arb bracket bolts is a tad tricky on both sides due to space limitations (ratchet offset ring spanner advisable).

On B/B they are directly replaceable, i.e. the brackets open when you undo the bolts.

On M/MW you have to chisel the brackets open as the are spot welded.

The bushes are different in shape from B/B, too, and they cannot be bought separately. However, Iveco Nuovo Daily ones fit after some filing in the bottom area.

AFAIR they look somewhat like in the attachment, at least for pertol engine version. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[jug]

On M/MW you have to chisel the brackets open as the are spot welded.

what a stupid design!!

 

[Hellcat]

Think I'll pack it with grease and leave it then... Sounds like there is a very high chance of making it worse!

 

[Tomasso]

Think I'll pack it with grease and leave it then... Sounds like there is a very high chance of making it worse!

Not really... once you replace the rubber insert, the brackets are held together by the bolts that go through them (just as in the case of B/B).

The spot weld does not have ANY function. Stupid!

 

[Rennie]

Ok, drop links changed and wishbones on both sides also (got a local garage to do it for £70 + vat which was labour and I supplied the parts.)

I took the beastie down the M4 to test out my new firmer handling, but I now can feel vibration thru the steering wheel when I slightly steer left / right at around 50 mph to 80 mph? It wasn't violently jerking the steering wheel back and fore, it was more that feeling you have when using an SDS hammer drill. Whilst the car snaked a lot before the wishbones were done it never vibrated like this. Could this be the wheel alignment / tracking, which hasn't been done yet? I did notice that the outer edges of the tyres of the front tyres have worn even more away than they were before the WB's were done which I know points to alignment.

There is also a bit of clonking when I quickly turn the steering wheel left and then back right whilst stationery, could this be play in the rack?

Has anyone got ideas about the above?

 

[Hellcat]

Tyres out of balance? Didn't notice it before due to the vibrations being taken up by the knackered bushes?

 

[jug]

Didn't notice it before due to the vibrations being taken up by the knackered bushes

exactly, also your bushes wore more quickly due to the vibration.

the new bushes wont be enjoying thate vibration either. get the tracking checked and get the wheels balanced.

also make sure both track rod ends have no play as this vibration will usually kill them as well. if you notice more vibration during heavy braking/acceleration it probably means the track rod ends have already been vibrated to death.

 

[Bruchetta]

Hi all !
I'm also looking for bushes that fit the inner ARB brackets on the Marea 1.6 Weekend. Anyone know were to buy and what part number the Iveco Daily bush has?

Strange that Powerflex or Superflex dont do them yet. I think they would sell just great as all Mareas probably are suffering from this (in addition to the drop down links that I have to change almost every year...

Brgds from Norway

 

[Rennie]

Well I finally resolved my torque steer and "clonking" problems with my Marea. Initially after changing the drop links and the wishbones on both sides I was still getting problems. My usual garage who are next to a fiat dealership took much joy in telling me I had play in my steering rack due to wear & tear and as fiat make/sell these as a complete unit it would be £350.00 (or £150 for an after market rack) & £150 labour. Ive since found a gem of a garage who are happy for me to buy my own parts and they will fit them. He also said that the first garage had omitted to mention that whilst what was said about fiat was true, the parts that were causing me the problems was an inner track-rod that was knacked and that these can be bought from most factors.

So after £50 on parts (inner, outer and boot kit) & £40 labour and a further £10 for laser wheel alignment & tracking (which my new garage sorted out for me) and it feels brilliant to drive again.