i have a 1000watt fli amp in my boot http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/9145.html
this is running my 4 component speakers
and just recently purchased a 1000watt kenwood amp http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?i...dsp=21&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&sa=N&start=252&um=1
and two pioneer subs http://manuals.kenwood.novenaweb.info/languages/EN/support/manuals/KAC-8151D.pdf
just a few things i need help with
1. is it possable to bridge power from my exsisting amp as its same max power etc without afftecting eithers preformance? and how?
2.is it best to put the subs in a combined circuit totaling 8ohms or seperate for 2ohms total
3.can i get connectors that will allow me to split one rca cable from the amp powering my speakers (the end thats in the boot) to link it to my new amp (my hu does not have any extra imputs anyway)
basically i cba taking all the panels etc off again so want to try wire it frm my exsisting amp in the boot
help is appreciated!

cheers chris

http://shop.audioimages.co.uk/alpin...nnector-for-din-male-to-rca-female-p-266.html
could i fit one of these (similar product) to the 5.1 output jack on the back of my hu
http://www.beat-audio.co.uk/files/BEAT600_Manual.pdf
i just need one more rca to fit this other amp. just doing it this way means i will have to take panels off etc
so really want a way the jus bridge off the other amp in my boot but without loosing signal or power, watev that will make it not sound as good, unless it does not make much diff?

Right just so others can see what i wrote last night.
Remember that max power is a figure made up by the Marketing team whilst sitting in the pub only look at RMS power.
Do you have a link to each amp and sub so i can see what we have to play with. They wont be strapable if they are different amps. Even if they are the same they have to be specifically designed to strap together (Bridge)
I would say that you need an RCA splitter and there are a few ways of doing it depending on your budget.
1. One of your amps may Have an RCA should be able to use that.
2. The worst option is something called a Y splitter
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380103181006&category= 116850&refid=store
This just splits and halves the signal.
3. Line driver does what it says in the description there are many types availabe.
http://shop.audioimages.co.uk/vibe-d...ver-p-437.html
4. Audio Processors
http://www.speedsound.com/product.as...ific=jnkmrnepc

That kenwood amp will do you proud i love those babies, i have a 4 channel one in a mates Pug 306 running a wee 10 diamond sub and it bangs.
Wire the sub at 2ohms. 400w RMS will suit that sub perfectly but i would really recommend getting the amps scoped so you dont have any clip in you system.
If you look at no 15 on the kenwood amp it has an RCA out so this just connects to your Fli amp.
You say that you only have one preout ATM but the fli has 2 sets of RCA inputs so do all four channels work with just one set.
A pic or two may help.

really recommend getting the amps scoped so you dont have any clip in you system.what does this mean?

n no i mean my hu has 2 preouts but the are both taken up by the 4channel fli amp because i have two rca cables, from the hu to the amp which run the 4 speakers

OK then 1 set to Fli and 1 set to Kenwood from Hu then use the output on the Kenwood to go to the Second set on the fli.
Scope = Oscilloscope. It visually represents the sound waves so you can see if the signal is being clipped or not. If you get squared/flat waves then you know you have clip, if you have nice smooth curves then you know your in business.

o i get it, one of the two from the hu to the kenwood, the other from the hu to the fil, then an rca from kenwood (no15 output) to fli input and that should work everything soundwise?
now how do i get power from the fli amp to the kenwood or do i heed another power lead from batt?
the one to the fli amp now is an 8gauge wire i think

Ah you will need to run a 4gauge power cable through the car, there could be potential problems using 8gauge for 900w rms. Then you have a choice, leave the 8,gauge run in as its already there and just connect the 4 gauge to the kenwood. Or take out the 8 gauge and just have the 4 run through the car, use a fused distrobution block in the back and use your spare 8 gauge to go from distro to amp.

nope its a 10 gauge i just found the packet,
how come i need a 4 gauge? the lower the gauge the more power its handleing?
and the 900rms where have you got that from? both the amps or the subs?

basically i wana install it tomo, what are all the things i need? not guna b lazy guna take whatev panels off etc so:
gauge power cable? (powercable was the only thing missing when i bought this)
i do have a ridiculously thick earth cable but i not sure mayb its the right one...

Light Reading on Gauging
[ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauge[/ame]

Just install a new 4 gauge wire through the car (I use 10 gauge a speaker wire lol) into a Distribution block and then 8 gauge from the block to the amps.
This is a distribution block, Fused for power
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Raptor-Distri...ryZ14932QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Non fused for GND.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stinger-unfus...ryZ14932QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

4 gauge wiring kit which has everything
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/value-4awg-dual-p-7215.html

Do you remember i told you Max power means absolutely sweet FA, it is a figure made up by the marketing team at the Pub. Plucked from thin air LOL.
Look at the RMS figures.
You will need another RCA cable to go from the Kenwood-Fli amp if the kit that you buy doesnt have one in it, you can buy short ones.

The Kenwood is Rated at 500w RMS
The Fli is rated at 4x100w RMS (debatable)

ok so if i get a 4 gauge power cable tomo a fused distribution block, then the 4gauge goes into and then i add to it two 8 gauges from it to the amps?
can i use the 10 guage i take from my car split it in half and use that or do the both bits also need to be fused and has to be an 8gauge? making any 10 gauge wireing useless?
the ground cable distribution is that two 8 gauge grounds from the amps to the distribution then a 4gauge to the chassis?

yeah i no bout the rms figures from choosing my speakers then the amp, now realise i have sh*t wires lol even though when buying them on the front it said suitable for my amp

You do realise the lower the gauge the bigger the cable.
All that you said would be fine but i would spend the extra $ on a couple of meters of 8gauge.
This may help you
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

got my power cables now
might sound a stupid question but my rca cables are different thicknesses doies this matter at all? they are only taking the signal from the hu to the amp arnt they?

Na shouldnt matter mate.

ok so its all wired up and everything but the sound of the bass is v quiet, i need to play with the controls on the amp am i best turning the input sensativity to max?
and i am guessing the LPF and infrasonic switch if i play with these i will be able to tune the subs by ear?
and there are various HPF and LPF (http://www.fliaudio.co.uk/manuals/fli900s.pdf) on my amp which am i best to use to 1. take the bass out of the speakers and 2. to make the speakers louder etc
cheers

It depends on what you mean by max for the gain. The highest voltage will be the minimum and the lowest voltage will be the mac volume. Gain is not a volume control though it should be set to the HU's voltage. To tune it keep turning it up until the speaker distorts then turn it down a bit.
I would tune the sub amp HPF etc to a sound that suits your taste.

is it the HPF that lets all the base thru? if you look on the fli amp manual above you can see the controls i am on about and you can turn the lpf or hpf off and then tune it to how you want it but i am just wondering which lets base through and which to change it to to stop it?

HPF = High Pass Filter, your mid and tweeter frequencys

LPF = Low Pass Filter, your Sub frequencies,