Stripping


To start, I release the Wheel locator studs, using a 12mm Deep Socket, simple unscrew these off – and leave them in a safe place

Studs Removed.jpg

Release the calliper, as shown on the picture there is a tiny Clip that holds the Caliper Bar into place to prevent lateral Movement, simply pull this out and keep it in a safe place,
DO NOT LOOSE THAT CLIP
Secure Pin and Shaft.jpg


Next Spray a little WD40 onto the holes where the bar sits, often covered in brake dust, it can sometimes seize into place, A spray with wd40 and tap the end with a hammer, it should easily come out – the calliper at this point may jump up a little, Not to worry


here is how the Clip sits on the bar - pretty simple
How the Pin Fits into the shaft (B).jpg


As the calliper is now released, simply Pivot it upwards as shown in the picture, and remove the Brake pads which should easily slide out


Caliper Pivot Up.jpgRemove old brake pad.jpg



– Next it is time to push the piston back in. Now yes you could just push it back in to refill the reservoir tank, however If you have an ABS unit, this can push rubbish and old oil back into the ABS unit which could Upset it
Brake Bleed Nipper.jpg



Also with ABS Cars – NEVER switch on the ignition when there is a bleed valve open, There is a vacuum unit inside that has fluid inside, if there is valve open, this pouch of fluid is expelled and can render the ABS unit Un-usable


Its also good to keep replacing the brake fluid now and then, so Find a suitable fitting spanner for the bleed valve, attach a Bleed pipe/Clear Pipe onto the Nipple. With a big pair of Plumper pliers and the use of an old pad – press the piston back into the calliper body
Dont use the pliers on the Piston as this may damage it, hence use an old pad. Once the piston is pushed back in the fluid should expel, close the bleed valve. The pipe should be full of old brake fluid, Not bubbles. If you have Bubbles you need to do a Bleeding session

Next it is time to remove the calliper, Never let the calliper Dangle by the flexi pipe alone, Always support it somehow, personally i attach a rope around a suspension spring and suitable place on the calliper. Unclip the flexi pipe as well – for me it was in the way, a simple spring unclips off the end

Flexi retaining Spring.jpg
Caliper Retaining Bolts.jpg
There are 2x 17mm Bolts on the back as in the picture shown
These May be tight and refuse to budge
A spray with wd40 and some soak time may help
I also used a Hammer and tapped the Flat face of the bolt a few times. The shock of been hit by a hammer can help loosen Rust bonding and help slacken Tight threads
I used the cars tyre wrench on my socket wrench to provide me with more leverage.
Making a breaker bar.jpg
This helped No end, as my bolts simple came un-done with a little fight.
The calliper will suddenly drop, hence why you should have tied up before hand. Once the calliper is loose I raised it up out the way


Caliper tied up and Disc falling off.jpg

the Disc Should now be free to move easily off. Mine came off with no fight or struggle.


Disc removed.jpg


Next page: rebuilding
Previous page: Jacking the Car up