rebuilding
Clean the new disc’s with brake cleaner, as most come with a warehouse grease/film applied to stop them rusting in the box’s while in storage, Simple wipe them clean and Place onto the hub
the 2x studs that you took of first can now be placed back on – to prevent your lovely shiny disc slipping off
Now you can do 1 of 2 you can
A – clean the Pad Groves while its loose
B – clean the pad groves when you’ve secured the Caliper Setup Back on
This is your choice, but you will need to clean all the old grease, road grime and brake dust from these groves, as failure todo so may result in Brake squeal, sticky brakes or uneven pad wear as one works harder then the other
Simply With a wire brush or sand paper/wet and dry, clean these 4 channels (1 top and bottom per pad) so that its clean and metal is showing.
once clean Slip alittle Copper grease onto the Channels to ensure smooth movement of the new pads
If you haven’t attached the calliper setup back on – do so now
Now the Disc and calliper setup is secure, simply slot the new pads into place
drop the calliper back down inserting the Pin and the Pin retaining Clip into place
once the setup is complete, double check all bolts are present and tight, the bleed nipple isn’t leaking and tight, with its dust cap refitted. If it all passes off as okay, go and press the brake pedal a few times, this simply push’s the pads upto the disc ready for the beading in process
Now you have complete one side, Repeat to the Otherside you have todo
When you press the brake pedal - since the engine is off, it should go hard
If the Pedal doesn't go hard - ie spongy, then you need to bleed the brakes / could mean another fault
Once both sides are done pop road wheels back on – pop bolts on finger tight
Jack car down
Tension the wheel bolts back up using a Torque Wrench set to the correct Torque
I believe that my haynes manual says 86NM. However again i Take no responserbility should your bolts come loose and loose a wheel - its your job to make sure there tight and secure