Hi. I'm having problems with the above car...
Will not start, will not crank.
On first turn of the key it does nothing other than beep and show errors for ABS, POWER STEERING, AIRBAG and everything else.
Immobiliser light stays on, as does steering light.

I've connected to MES and I can connect to abs, steering , body , everything except ENGINE.

Ive checked all earth straps ( ecu,gearbox,alternator) and all are good.
I've checked, and found corrosion on the largest connector on ma in fuse box under the bonnet, cleaned up and sprayed contact cleaner on them all. So fairly confident there's a good connection now.
But still it refuses to start.
Anything else I'm missing?

What you are describing is exactly the bad ground issue.

How did you check for good grounds? don't be stingy with the details.

I've removed all bolts retaining the grounds, checked and sanded down, not that they needed it, also used jump leads to bridge from negative to Ecu direct.
Would a bad ground make it impossible to connect to the engine on mes?

Have checked wiring around cable retainer and as far up as I can go, no chaffing of wires. I've also got a same barcode number engine bay fuse box which I've swapped out and still no joy...

Upon inserting key and ignition on, I don't get a fuel pump prime or anything apart from errors on dash.
If I do try and start the car I can hear a relay click under the bonnet but that is it.

I've also found 2 more earths with multiple wires directly I
Under the and unit

I'm going to say this again... it's probably the 50th time I say it:
-Yes it is possible to fail to connect to the ecu..the ecu takes little power to function (enough might flow through the cables so i wouldn't go by this)
-The cables corrode internally.
-They cannot be diagnosed by visual inspection.
-You need to test them under a big load...something big like 20amps ~300w.

-You can also test with some starting cables, connected from battery negative to gearbox and from negative to car body. BUT: this method can fail, if you have a bad contact.

Again it's not the only thing that can cause these simptoms... might also be the ignition switch...but you say the fuel pump also fails to start.. so this again points to a bad ground.

I've attached leads from batt negative to Ecu mounts, and to gearbox still nothing.

I've also checked the key aerial and all seems in order...

I'm not sure if it's related but we had a key locksmith attend the car as we locked the key in the car, they gained access to the car by piggybacking the code to open the car.. could this of killed the key code. But it did start after this happened.

Does it crank over?
-No : car will crank even without the chip in the key.
-Yes : It cranks but doesn't start - then look into key/immobilizer.

If I try and start it and hold the key to initiate STARTER, the relay under the bonnet gets warm...
Also looking at the connectors that attach under the fuse box, the largest one looks like the contacts may be rusted, I've tried opening up the plug but it's mainly sealed wires inside the back so cannot see the connectors to see if they are bad...

aurick86 said:

Does it crank over?
-No : car will crank even without the chip in the key.
-Yes : It cranks but doesn't start - then look into key/immobilizer.

Click to expand...

No, it doesn't crank. No movement whatsoever

Maybe those drawings would help ?

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Bernievarian said:

Maybe those drawings would help ?

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Click to expand...

Umm not really...

I'm truly thinking the ecu is dead..
I've enquired to a new ecu lockset and awaiting a response..

Ok, so I got a spare ecu to test.
I cannot connect to that one either. So have no clue now where to go...
I've cleaned, and added additional earth wires to head, gear box and alternator ...

Immobiliser light is still on, I've had out and inspected visually the immobiliser/ fuse box and seen nothing obviously

Could it be I've got water ingress in the wiring harness and it corroded that from within?
Are there specific wires in there for immobiliser harness?

Also could be a snapped wire somewhere ....

Could the ignition switch or antenna be bad?

Any advice highly appreciated

Ok. So I'm inspecting the wiring loom from under the main fuse box under the bonnet. There are corroded contacts within the harness... So I guess I'm on the right track... I'll put up some pics in a min

Corroded contact pin 3 row1

From top

As far as I can see it is pin 31.
What is that related to.? Can I bypass straight to the top of the fuse box for now? I'll have to check all the others as Well... is this part of the loom replaceable without a full loom swap?

Ok, so crudely stripped the wire back and stuck it in the hole and she runs!!!!!
Wicked... but would really like to know what pin 31 is for so I can connect it in a more proper fashion.

Mike, You haven't checked the drawing I sent you !!

Pin 31 @ connection box if feeding the main ignition relay (T6) which in turn bring power to the starter relay contact, that BTW gets warm because being too long ON …

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Without being rude, could you highlight in the diagram, where I should of been looking, as the diagram to me , with my lack of knowledge reading such info really didn't help my cause, although very much appreciated.

So that said. There are 4 contacts on T6, can I hard wire it to a particular pin?

While I'm learning electronics, what part of the ignition relay is connected to the immobiliser..... or is it that there was a break in the circuit so it locked out?