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Technical CV Joint replacement

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Technical CV Joint replacement

AgnessGP

AgnessGP

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Hi All,

Having bought my own cv joints (2 for £30!) I now need to fit them. Most garages won't touch them as they will only use parts bought by themselves, so, if i were to attempt myself, does anybody know what is involved?

I know I will need a ball joint splitter (around £10) but other than that, I'm clueless and have never really done anything other than change oil etc.

If anyone can help I would be very greatful, if anyone can actually do it I will be more than happy to fund some beers and some cash aswell.

Also, I do think it is beyond safe now as I have kept driving it long after the knocking, my own fault really.

Thanks in advance anyone!

Sam
 
Last edited:
Sam is there no chance of returning the parts that you have bought and just let a garage use their parts mate, could save alot of time and money and then there is the always the added reassurance that its been done properly mate, you cant put a price on piece of mind mate.
 
there is every chance I could do that yeah. probably the best thing to do. I do believe there are people on here that must have done it before but either have not seen this or dont want to post lol! but yeah, I think ll be best off doing it the way you said.
 
sammclean23 said:
Hi All,

Having bought my own cv joints (2 for £30!) I now need to fit them. Most garages won't touch them as they will only use parts bought by themselves, so, if i were to attempt myself, does anybody know what is involved?

I know I will need a ball joint splitter (around £10) but other than that, I'm clueless and have never really done anything other than change oil etc.

If anyone can help I would be very greatful, if anyone can actually do it I will be more than happy to fund some beers and some cash aswell.

Also, I do think it is beyond safe now as I have kept driving it long after the knocking, my own fault really.

Thanks in advance anyone!

Sam
Click to expand...
I see that you've arranged to have them fitted for 60 Pounds. That's a fair price for a garage; however, it is quite a bit of money (to me) and I would have changed them myself for that price.

You say you bought 2 CV joints but it sounds like you actually bought two axle units with a CV joint on each end; i.e. 4 total CV joints and two axles. Good, that's the way to go. Replacing these units is simple but if you actually try to remove the CV joint from the end of the axle, it can sometimes prove to be quite difficult. At least that has been my experience on similar, non-Fiat vehicles.

Anyhow, the suggested link is good and you shouldn't need any tools not found in an ordinary hobby-style mechanic's tool box. A floor jack and set of stands is nice, but not absolutely necessary.

Forget about the cheap ball joint splitter. The fork types often do damage and the good ones cost too much money to justify using once every 5 or 10 years. I've removed countless ball joints and have always been successful with the two-hammer method. Loosen the nut and run it to the top of the stem (but not off) so that the threads are protected. Then find two HUGE hammers and simultaneously wack both sides of the FORGING holding the stem. Do NOT hit the ball joint itself. Hit the forging as hard as you can. That almost always makes the tapered ball joint stem pop free. If not, you can TAP the end of the stem (protected by the nut), but this must be only a TAP. Then hit both sides of the forging again with your great big hammers as hard as you can. This might take a dozen tries. The idea is to shock the forging where it grips the tapered stem and the goal is to hit opposite sides at exactly the same time, HARD. Easy, cheap, and safe as long as you don't lose you mind and hit the end of the stem too hard.

At the price you paid for your new parts, I'm guessing they are not new or reconditioned. If so, you could be replacing them before too long, depending on how lucky you are. Next time consider doing it yourself.
 
T14086 said:
why are you changing them?
Click to expand...

Heard a constant knocking noise, had it looked at at a garage and he showed be the grease has more or less gone and as a result, is very worn.

Mozella said:
I see that you've arranged to have them fitted for 60 Pounds. That's a fair price for a garage; however, it is quite a bit of money (to me) and I would have changed them myself for that price.

You say you bought 2 CV joints but it sounds like you actually bought two axle units with a CV joint on each end; i.e. 4 total CV joints and two axles. Good, that's the way to go. Replacing these units is simple but if you actually try to remove the CV joint from the end of the axle, it can sometimes prove to be quite difficult. At least that has been my experience on similar, non-Fiat vehicles.

Anyhow, the suggested link is good and you shouldn't need any tools not found in an ordinary hobby-style mechanic's tool box. A floor jack and set of stands is nice, but not absolutely necessary.

Forget about the cheap ball joint splitter. The fork types often do damage and the good ones cost too much money to justify using once every 5 or 10 years. I've removed countless ball joints and have always been successful with the two-hammer method. Loosen the nut and run it to the top of the stem (but not off) so that the threads are protected. Then find two HUGE hammers and simultaneously wack both sides of the FORGING holding the stem. Do NOT hit the ball joint itself. Hit the forging as hard as you can. That almost always makes the tapered ball joint stem pop free. If not, you can TAP the end of the stem (protected by the nut), but this must be only a TAP. Then hit both sides of the forging again with your great big hammers as hard as you can. This might take a dozen tries. The idea is to shock the forging where it grips the tapered stem and the goal is to hit opposite sides at exactly the same time, HARD. Easy, cheap, and safe as long as you don't lose you mind and hit the end of the stem too hard.

At the price you paid for your new parts, I'm guessing they are not new or reconditioned. If so, you could be replacing them before too long, depending on how lucky you are. Next time consider doing it yourself.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for that. Excellent descriptions, especially useful for someone who has never touched something like this before i.e. me.

The ones I bought were actually brand new but now you mention it, I'm not sure how long they will last. Im hoping a while.

Not that you can tell from a picture if they're good, but here they are:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140712548817?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thanks again,

Sam
 
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Problem NOT solved.

CV joints fitted, knocking is still there, although quieter.

whilst they were fitted he checked everything:

- engine mounts
- drop links
- track rod
- all joints
- coils

What he has suggested is that it could be top mounts?

Can anyone suggest? Really fed up of spending money fixing now :(
 
sammclean23 said:
Problem NOT solved.

CV joints fitted, knocking is still there, although quieter.

whilst they were fitted he checked everything:

- engine mounts
- drop links
- track rod
- all joints
- coils

What he has suggested is that it could be top mounts?

Can anyone suggest? Really fed up of spending money fixing now :(
Click to expand...

dont see anti roll bar bushes mentioned...

top mounts: i sucessfully repaired mine.

removed, took apart, cleaned all ball bearings, re fitted with copious amounts of cv grease.

refitted and been fine last 12months
 
Right, this is stressing now.

This is where I am:

- all bangs etc are coming from drivers side front suspension area, sounds like underneath rather than top mounts
- Knocking noise started ages ago when parking, loud knocks, found out cv joint needed doing so had that done.
- Knock quietened for a week but is now back, maybe louder than before. This can be 2 or 3 times whilst parking.
- Slight knocking over bumps and cornering has started
- had bushes, drop links, engine mounts etc checked, garage said all is okay.
- cant check top mounts due to snapped fitting at top (bit inside the bolt) and therefore it is either have it replaced or not, i cant check it.

Im stumped with this, usually noises point to something e.g. 'it could be this or that' but i have no idea apart from cv joints, which have been replaced.

If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be grateful.

Sam
 
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