Hi, I have a 57 plate Grande Punto Dynamic Sport 1.4 and am having a nightmare with my boot!

This morning I came to get in my car and my dashboard display said my hatchback was open. I thought I must have left it open or opened it accidently, so I thought nothing of it. However I came to my car again after work and my boot was open again! Then tonight I was sitting in my front room and noticed orange flashing lights outside the window. I went out and my boot was open again, so I shut it and it immediately opened again. The boot lock mechanism then went crazy and kept trying to release the boot door every few seconds, even though it was already open. Now I am worried about leaving my car because this keeps happening!

Has anyone else had this problem or know if it is a known fault? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

On the assumption that you have remote central locking, does you fob also have a boot release button on it? It sounds to me like it's stuck down since it went mad when you were close to the car

I'd get it checked out at dealership partically for water ingress.

I have the same problem! The open switch from the handle has a condenser or rezistor? It keeps opening up! Wile i am driving i am activating central locking, but when i open one of the dors the but is going haywire, you can hear the actuator ope, open, open! What can be the problem? No remote control!

Hi, original post from january 2009... pitty that no one gave any new how it had been fixed...

You could remove the specific fuse to avoid the boot opening unwantedly (as a temporary solution). The problem can come from the switch on the dashboard control, this gives a earth reference signal to the body computer which in turn positive-powers the boot opening geared motor...

Regards, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix or understand your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right, it's free and make us happy...

where is this fuse located?..i have the problem of the boot not opening to either fob or dash button...

F73 is located at the body computer (under the dash/glove-box)...

BRs, Bernie

Mine was doing it in my pocket! Button was very sensitive on the fob!

Hi Bernie,
I am having this problem. Could you explain a bit more how the switch works?
Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike, which switch ??

If H090 as I said earlier it just bring back ground reference to the body computer which then activâtes the lock release motor …


BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

My problem originally was the boot light not working.

I diagnosed it down to a dry solder joint on the microswitch sensor connector on the pcb IN the boot lock mechanism.
I removed it, disassembled it, cleaned & re-soldered it, tested and re-fitted.

ALL WORKED GREAT FOR 3 WEEKS!!!

Then the boot light stopped working AND a red door outline occasionally appears on the instrument panel. And on remote locking the indicators gave multiple short flashes.
Initially I was puzzled as it was showing with two side doors firmly shut.
Then I noticed when you initially turn on the ignition it flashes up "Hatchback Open" - but it isn't.
AND both the key fob & internal boot open buttons works fine.

Anyway, this is intermittent as every 2-3 boot open & close cycles everything is normal EXCEPT the boot light!

Once I get time and good weather I'm going to inspect the hatchback wiring loom boot to see the condition of the wiring between body & hatchback

Hi Bernie, the booot release switch on the dashboard and the key fob. In bth instances you can hear a relay click but the boot won’t open. It does open on its own about 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on!

May be worth changing the lock mechanism in the hatch given that it is prone to filling up with water ?

Michael Dranfield said:

May be worth changing the lock mechanism in the hatch given that it is prone to filling up with water ?

Click to expand...

We’ve done that but it didn’t make any difference.

So let's get concentrated on the wiring/grounding/wet fuse box etc …

Best to do is DIRECT drive boot (hatchback) opener with live positive from the battery. If that doesn't unleash the lock, check the actuator grounding, if this is ok, than the actuator is kaputt, from here, almost all options are open :-D

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Bernievarian said:

So let's get concentrated on the wiring/grounding/wet fuse box etc …

Best to do is DIRECT drive boot (hatchback) opener with live positive from the battery. If that doesn't unleash the lock, check the actuator grounding, if this is ok, than the actuator is kaputt, from here, almost all options are open :-D

Click to expand...

I assume by actuator you mean the solenoid in the catch. I’ve checked the earth for that, I’ve checked the wiring in the boot as much as I can. It blew the fuse this evening when I was trying it for some reason. The only thing I havent checked is the relay, although I can hear it clicking when I press the button on the dash or the key fob. I give up!

Check the wiring in the rubber concertina pipe between the hatch and the bodyshell. The wires (and the pipe for the rear washer) go through there. They break and can stop things functioning or cause a short

Don't give-up Mike, if you can hear a clicking that means the command is still working, which is kinda good new, though there ain't no relay on the drawing for that actuator :-(

Disconnect the connector from the motor assy and check for continuity between pins 4 & 3 ON THE MOTOR (N057), you should read the motor winding resistance.

If open, motor is kaputt.
If ok, measure the VOLTAGE that goes out of the connector @ same pins, you should read 12V (ish) when the unlatch command is given (dash of remote).
If not, one of the wires is broken, check for continuity between connector's pin 3 and a ground point, if open, so is the wire, you need to replace it.
If ground is ok, then the live wire is broken, most probably in the rubber flex between hatch and body, it may even got in contact with the body while you were testing, making the fuse blow ...

If you connect the actuator directly to the battery +, do it thru a bulb (head light's fine) to avoid unwanted direct short-cut and don't forget the actuator needs to be ground-fed as well !!

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

DGPunto said:

Check the wiring in the rubber concertina pipe between the hatch and the bodyshell. The wires (and the pipe for the rear washer) go through there. They break and can stop things functioning or cause a short

Click to expand...

I’ve checked the wiring - it looks fine.

Not really the expected answer Mike, you need to be more precise !

It looks fine Does that mean you did a VISUAL check or used a DVM ? In such case and there is continuity between both ends of the wire, we should read that it IS fine.

If one want to get some results, no approximation is allowed in troubleshooting. Planned methodology is our best friend to narrow down the issue and finally beat the culprit !


BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)