Hello all,
We have a 1997 Swift Sundance 500 motor home, based on the Ducato.
Now, here's the question, at the last MOT one of the advisory suggestions, was that the front cross member, was rather corroborated, and would need replacing.
I have found said cross member, purchased for £58:00.
I have looked at the fitting, and there are 3 bolts either side, and very accessible, the thing that worries me is, this is probably the original cross member, and after all these years, how easy will it be to remove the bolts.
Any thoughts ?
Cheers John.

John,, you won't know until you try. They can, and do, seize in place. The problem then being that the captive nuts or threaded inserts will shear off, resulting in the bolts just turning. That's a whole world of pain as access to them is very difficult IIRC. I would suggest severe soaking in a penetrant for as long as you can before doing the job- every day for a couple of weeks if you can, time is your friend here. Also, heating and cooling over a similar period if you can, not to red heat, or anything too violent. A gas blowlamp carefully applied, let them cool and do so every couple of days before attempting to remove the bolts. Also if the bolts will come loose, turn them a turn or so, and back in again if they get stif, in and out progresing a bit more each time. When job is being bolted back again, use the very best anti sieze you can get, not sure copper grease is much good, and then squirt as much quality cavity wax as you can inside the new part, having first painted it within an inch of its life before putting it on! Let us know how it goes?

For a penetrating fluid I use a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF or power steering fluid same thing, in an atomizer pump sprayer.
Will need to shake well before use as the two liquids won't go into solution.

If using acetone please be extremely careful, as it is very volatile and highly flammable with a low flash point.

2when I changed mine I used plus gas for a couple of days I found no problem removing the bolts. but a word of caution make sure you use something to stop the chassis from spreading !! I used a strong ratchet strap did the job perfect everything stayed in line and the bolt holes lined up perfect when reassembling, whole job only took about an hour or so.

Communicator said:

If using acetone please be extremely careful, as it is very volatile and highly flammable with a low flash point.

Click to expand...

I've never had any issues when mixed with ATF and lots of peeps use it.

Sorry that I forgot to say, get as much penetrant as you can inside the chassis rails and onto the captive nuts. This will be hard, i know, but it will be the bigger help in allowing the penetrant in. If the chassis is sound metal, maybe a small hole can be drilled adjacent to them to allow a straw or such in, and sealed with silicone or P.U. sealant when finished? Something with more of a scatter-gun sparay pattern rather than a fine jet. If said hole is made, it can be used to blather inside the rails with the cavity wax afterwards. Also, consider making some small holes in the new member at the lowest point when fitting, and paint any drilled edges, this will allow any water inside to drain away. I have seen reference to using rivnuts if the inserts fail, but these, as a replacement, will not be strong enough to tow with at all.