Hello everyone i hope you can help. My Ducato 2.0jtd had a cam belt done when i got it back the belt was noisy, i questioned it and i was told this should go when belt stretches, if not bring back, so i did and the manufacturer has agreed to change the whole kit free of charge, But 2 days after the belt change no1 the van started to cut out whilst sitting at 60mph (2500rpm), eml on and stall. Once stopped it starts straight back up. Once i got home it would not start, left for a while it started again run rough, stalled and wouldnt start again. Took it to a garage, it was plugged in and i was told it was the pressure regulator, ive changed it and although the vans running again it still stalls on the motorway. It seems to be when warm and when i sit at a steady pace and then touch the accelerator to overtake. Everything seems to be pointing to fuel.

So far ive changed the filter, changed the pressure regulator - removed, cleaned and fitted again. And removed , cleaned and refitted the pressure sender. Checked all fuses.
Ive unplugged the rail sender and it starts with eml on and in limp mode, plugged back in and no light and revs again so i assume thats fine. ???

The van starts and runs lovely, infact every mechanic ive been to has commented on how good it sounds, " When Running " LOL just this really annoying issue.
When i changed the filter i poured it into a clear bottle and there was no water or anything else.
The LP pump in tank runs for the usual 20 secs when ignition on, and pumps loads of fuel does this mean its ok or could it still be faulty ???
Could it be the HP pump itself rather than the regulator or is it a case of either works or doesn't ???
Now ive changed the pressure regulator do the codes need to be wiped from the ecu, could this be why its still stalling ????

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for me.
Thanks

Has the pessure regulator fault come up again since it was changed because the thing I'd be thinking of after a cambelt change is the cam sensor gap is too much.

Im not sure im going to take it to a diesel specialist tomorrow for a live data check and possibly a leak off test.

How would the cam sensor gap change ?? I thought it was in a fixed position??

Common enough to find them having been moved out of the waty or knocked during cambelt change.
Definitely worth getting your own diagnostics setup - its less than a tenner if you have a windows laptop see the other threads on here.

Ok so ive bought the lead and ran fiatecuscan.
It gave me a code of P0191 incorrect signal from fuel pressure sensor, so ive now replaced the sensor and no difference, i have now noticed that the problem seems to be temp related, when hot (half way on temp gauge or above). Whilst warming there doesnt seem to be one. So seems to me to be electrical rather than mechanical.

It stopped and wouldnt start again today untill it had cooled a little and when i got it home i ran fiatecuscan for fault codes, got the usual P0191 plus 1 relating to crank/cam sensor error. So as this is the fault i originally thought it might be although being told differently by a "specialist" im going to change them tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for your help on this.

Ok so changed both the crank and cam sensors and no different. ????
Still cuts out ???
I have however noticed that when it cuts out, i turn ignition off and back on again the lp pump does not come on. A after a while and turning ignition off/on a few times it comes back on and the van will start.
Is this because the ecu recognises a fault and wont let it or is it because theres a fault with the pump its self??

Could the pump be cutting in and out very briefly while underload and throwing up a pressure fault and cutting the engine ????

I thought it might be the relay so i changed it and no different.

I going to disconnect the in tank pump and connect a independent in-line lift pump and see if the fault remains. At least that should give me an idea if the pumps at fault.

The first thing I would do is to run a new "ignition on" positive feed and earth directly to the LP pump. Use a relay if you can't find a ignition on feed with enough power. At a pinch, you could just run a +ve feed and earth from the battery via a switch just for testing. Just don't forget to turn it off.

I don't know if an inline pump can pull through the existing pump. Inertia switch will cut power to the lift pump, make sure its properly reset. I would suspect your ignition switch also. Incorrect signal error is just a pointer you'd want to look at the signal to see whats incorrect about it, maybe a short or pulled high, noisy etc.

Hello, thanks for your replies.
I did question whether another pump would pull through the existing pump. The reason i wanted to try it that way was to eliminate the lp pump altogether, i wondered if it could be weak or something as theres only an issue as the van warms up (over 1/4 on gauge ).

I might try the idea of plumbing a direct live/earth from batt with switch to eliminate any electrical problem, as for eliminating the pump itself im not too sure what to do. ???

I have today however done a leak off test to the best of my ability with what had (clear silicon tube and 4 x identical bottles ) i blanked the other ends with some bolts and the only thing i had to measure the diesel was a kitchen jug lol.
After running the van for 5 mins i got:
Left to Right
Injector 1: 105ml
2: 100ml
3: 50ml
4: 50ml
These are approx as like i said i only had a kitchen jug.
Also i drilled holes in the bottle tops so the hose was tight and in 1,2,3 there was a little pressure built up but none in 4, also i noticed some air coming through the pipe from no 4 but none from the others.

Is any of this normal ? Hopefully you can shed some light.??

Thanks

Ive also checked the inertia switch and all seems to be ok there.

From what ive read on here i now suspect that injectors 1 & 2 are faulty, leaking off too much causing the rail pressure to drop. Not sure how correct i am on this.

What i can do is graph the fuel pressure data and post it, then hopefully one of you guys knows what to look for more than i do ???

i agree injectors 1 and 2 are faulty id replace them see if u can borrow some to test not sure on your model but they may have to be coded to your vehicle