Apologies for the late reply. Been otherwise busy.
I've had the same vehicle now for the last 8 yrs. I have to say mine has been very little trouble, but then I've only covered minimal mileage in that time and now has only 80k on the clock. They don't get the hammer that commercial vehicles get and as an 'A' class with the galvanised Alko chassis there's not much bodywork rust to worry about. Though my upper crossmember needs some work, but I haven't figured out how to get it out yet - (you will notice that the bonnet drainage holes are located above the crossmember)
Mine had some damp in the wardrobe from snow standing on the roof one winter some yrs back. Ingress was round the flue pipe. Otherwise mine is as dry as the day it was made!
I would describe the vehicle as suitable for an enthusiast (as they were always something of a trial vehicle by the sound of it...) Early models were prone to shaking the windscreen out and if you check under the bonnet you will find the re-call modification to strengthen the fibre-glass section!
1st thing to check is whether the Alko back axle is seized - get plenty of grease into there if its been stood a long time as well - the 4 nipples are obvious. If axle is seized (this may be why its cheap, but they don't seem to be popular vans) it's not the end of the world but its costs around £1000 to replace (maybe less, but this was 3yrs ago)
Check that the front wheel arches are secure - on mine they were secured by steel brackets pop-riveted in place (Elddis) - these tend to shake free.
Check for water ingress damage around the front of front side windows. I have the details of the window manufacturer and its an easy job to reseal them. Any panel damage from neglect can also be repaired along with scuttle panel replacement.
Low effort rear brake problems on mine are due to the design of the rear brake compensating arrangment. The control arm (on mine anyway) is worked from the short Alko trailing arm - via a welded bracket. There is no overide facility and the bracket takes the stress when the arm bends at maximum when the back-end bottoms (over speed bumps say and if axle becomes seized - the only rear suspension is in the tyres!)
Jack back end up and make sure both trailing arms lower to check for seizure.
1 practical bad point is that all double beds are rather narrow and the upper cab bunk is def not big enough for two adults.
If on test drive it continually squeaks it is not necessarily the upper bunk! Mine was down to the floor section continually rubbing against the sq. section strengthening that surrounds the cab-end - once this was bent back a little - hey presto no more squeaking! I knew one owner that took his overcab bunk out for this reason. Make sure bunk secures properly in the up position too as it can come down on you when driving!
Oh and you can't lean out very well when reversing (note sliding windows in front doors), or adjust mirrors from inside and there is little cab front-end ventiation when it's hot so a fan or two are essential.
Make sure the cooling fans cut in btw. if they don't - fuses may have been overheating and making poor contacts and the earthing is something that can be much improved as they whop a hefty current!
The Autoking was an early attempt by Elddis to make a top of the range 'A class' and as such I think has some historical merit. As a marine engineer I feel you would be up to any challenges the Autoking could throw at you!
Hope my reply isn't too late for you but they do crop up on eBay from time to time - I wouldn't hesitate to have another as the layout is very good.
very good wishes to you, and again, apologies for the late reply,
mick
(
[email protected])
cheers Jim
