1988 ducato identifcation help needed Hi all, I am new here today, and have just purchased a 1988 Fiat Ducato motorhome, with an Adria body, it has come fom Germany originally, landing here in 1999, and left hand drive. It has badges on the front wings with 14 on, I presume thats 1.4 tons payload?

I am trying to identify what size of engine, and ref no it has, it says in the V5 it is 2428cc, but that seems unusual, the engine number stated in the V5 is 80475990. It is turbo charged and intercooled..... but according to a sign on the back and a label stuck to the sun visor, it was converted by a company called TB of Lancaster, but the installation looks original in the way it has been fitted?

Can any one help me locate where the engine number is stamped?? I have looked everywhere,

I started to go about changing the cambelt, but the instructions I had do not seem to tie in with what I have, as I thought it was a 2.5 TD, but I am not sure now

Any help would be apprieciated...............FF

Just bumping this up, and also noticed the plate on the slam panel states a number 8144.67 with 280 NA7 does that give any more clues??? as I am getting desperate now, many thanks FF

Fistral fig said:

Just bumping this up, and also noticed the plate on the slam panel states a number 8144.67 with 280 NA7 does that give any more clues??? as I am getting desperate now, many thanks FF

Click to expand...

Hi
According to my info the 8144.67 (87-94) & has a capacity of 2499 cc 55 kw @4200 rpm & is not a Factory Turbo engine. The Turbo must have been added by TB at Lancaster. The timing belt should be changed @ 100,000Klm or 78 months. as for the engine No. location ??

Thanks for that info Freespirit, most helpful, well that confirms what I had worked out, the V5 stating 2428cc must be wrong, also the turbo not being original would appear to be correct, ( goodness knows how much that must have cost, because you would not know its not original) the autodata print out for changing the belt that I have, is the same as what you have posted, but there is no mention of removing the crankshaft pully, (which clearly has to come off) why its not mentioned I dont know, as its the most difficult bit, and I was not sure there is enough room to get the pulley off, I was hoping someone who has already done the job could give some tips on how it was done??? thanks again FF

I did mine 4 yrs back. Not an easy job to crack off the pulley bolt without a pit! If you can get a 36mm socket and long crack bar and a pit it's much easier. I got mine undone by jacking the engine weight up on a big open-ended spanner and whacking it with a lump hammer after about 6 goes (it drops off the jack) it loosened! I was advised (by mechanic!) to put a wedge bar against chassis and start it up - but wasn't going to risk it!
A special tool isn't necessary to hold the tensioner back and you'll be able to devise something - it needs to be about 12mm as I remember (U shaped). Once you got pulley off and that lower guard it's pretty st fwd. That said I'm not looking fwd to doing it again! I'll invest in a 1/2" drive bar and socket for the next time and crack it off at MOT when it's over pit - just nip it up to get me home. This will make job a lot easier for me on gravel drive!
There was a bloke (Chris Butts) who had a very helpful web page re this but I think he's moved on...
cheers
lwm

No - just tried searching for it. Pity cos he had some wiring diagrams on as well...
I'd be interested to know if you replaced any of the seals when doing the cambelt. I had an oil leak (still do - though not as bad since) and was able to get a camseal but not pump or crank seal. Not easy to isolate an oil leak with so many seals - next change I'm hoping to get all the seals, but don't think it will be easy as the dealers are even less likely to have the microfilm now...
cheers
lwm

Thanks for reply LWM, I have just posted a long reply taking about 20 mins , just looked and it doesnt seem to be there, have to go out now but will do it again later, regards FF

test

Back to the plot, I am only half way through this job ATM, I have 36mm sockets and bars etc, but there is only enough room to get a socket on the bolt with no more room, as it is tight up against the chassis, I did use the the old starter trick with the help of my wife, but had to use stillsons wedged against the drive shaft, you need someone to only flick the key,( disable the stop, so the engine will not start), it worked a treat......

I did try lowering the engine for more room ( removed top engine mount) with the ring gear wedged with a screwdriver etc, and the engine just moved around on the jack,


I was pleased to see that only the front of the pulley came off as I was worried that there was not enough room to remove a full pulley, once that was out of the way and the lower shield, it all became clear, but there was no mention of any that in the Autodata instructions, now I know whats what, the job is a lot less stressful.
I too am working on a gravel drive!!!

I am not changing the seals as it is dry as a bone in there, but the seals will be a lot easier to obtain than fitting me thinks, take the old ones to a bearing supplier and they will match them,

The last ticky bit will be trying to torque the crankshaft bolt back up to 190Nm any one have any ideas????? regards FF

I should have said 'turn key' - not start it up! Luckily I didn't need to, but good to know it works...
I had a good mate who was a mechanic and he torqued it up for me over the pit in his lunch break. Maybe he had a short-reach socket? I'd got it as tight as I could with the open ended spanner with a big ring spanner hooked-on.
Yeah, I went to dealers for seals - I did get a crankshaft cover seal though. But the crankseal was on back order and never materialised. I'd be reluctant to take 'em out unless I knew fo'sure I could get them 1st. It's getting ready for doing again though so I'll find a bearing supplier - not easy to get out without distorting though.
cheers,
lwm

Well been working on it today and have reassembled most of it, (I have done many cambelts on many types of cars over the years, I have to say this has been the most awkward).

I would pay to watch someone do this job in 1.3 hours as Autodata states???

(I was changing both bearings as well, and they needed doing), one tip to watch for on reassembly is when putting the new bearing on the tensioner, you slide it over the stud and on to the carrier, the next piece is the top hat shaped washer, which sits in the recess of the bearing, then next is a thick spacer/washer, then you have to fiddle the metal lower shroud into position, and slide it over the tensioer stud, then finally the flat washer and nut, now while that is all going on, there is a tendency for the tophat shaped washer to drop down (because it has a large hole in for the adjustment) if not noticed you could tighten it all up with it misaligned, ( because you can not see hardly), this happend to me today and had to remove it all and start again, second time I used prit stick to hold them all in place while I nipped it up,

LWM when you tightened your crankshaft pulley as tight as you could at home, what did you do to stop the engine from turning??? regards FF

Meant to say , you can buy tools for removing seals, but I have used this tip many times if you can get in on them, and that is to drill small holes in the front of the seal, and screw small self tappers in and use mole grips to pull them out, for reference they normally have numbers marked on them for replacement......FF

That nice big inspection hole on the bell housing allows for careful insertion of a big screwdriver. Must admit it's a few yrs back now - I'll be scratching my head all over again when I come to do it next time (60k or 5yrs if I remember... it'll be the latter in my case!) - though I did take pics...
(ps - does your inspection hole have a plastic insert or anything ' cos mine is always open - I did hear of someone dropping a nut in there once... be a good idea to stick some duck tape over it when working under bonnet)
Yeah, my mate said that - I tried the self-tappers and just pulled 'em out - the seal didn't budge! ...maybe I screwed 'em in the wrong place..?
Did my timing belt last in '05 - the guy who owned it before paid a large sum of money to a garage and I found it to be 1 tooth out! Don't forget 2 turns on crank pulley (1 on camshaft) to make sure everything still lines up okay.
Mine should be done next yr then... doh...
Not done wheel bearings yet - the tester noted slight play this year, but told me they can be like that with new bearings on Ducatos. I've had slight play taken up before by having them air gunned up...
cheers and good luck,
lwm
My mechanic mate once did me a top balljoint an a Bedford CF in 8 mins! - I couln't believe it - I watched him do it! It would have taken me all weekend - all day Saturday just to find the tools!

Re: ducato 1988 2.5 diesel

crankshaft pulley bolt, anyone know if it is a right or left hand thread,we stuck.Tanks

Hi
As there is no menton of it being LHT in any of my Info/Data - It would be pretty safe to assume that it is RHT, the later 2.8 versions are RHT. Need a crankshaft locking device to undo the bolt, the bolt tension is 190Nm on that engine (8144.67) On my 2.8JTD I removed the starter & used a fabricated locking device to hold the crank. - http://s790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/fspirit/?action=view&current=IMG_1091.jpg
Cheers