So it came to pass that my Dobby failed it's MOT on a broken front spring a couple of years ago. Time, or lack of, meant that I had to get someone else to do it.
Since then, I have been getting an annoying knock on the front suspension. Initially only on the side that was unloaded on corners, hitting a bump or pothole. Over time, this knock deteriorated to being there over most bumps, on the drivers side. It had also passed another MOT in this condition.
Investigating with my limited resources revealed nowt.
I decided to grasp the nettle and replace the strut top mount - not an uncommon issue with the Dobby - mines a 263 with 70k on it.
As these things snowball, I ended up spending over £150 on new struts, mounts and drop links. The previous mechanic had either tightened up the top strut nut with a windy gun or was a muscular sort of dude. Either way, the nut was cruncho deluxe hyper hernia tight, so the shaft split at the hex. Some people would have undone the nut windy style and replaced as-was. I don't have the lack of integrity to do that, so new strut, which means two struts as I couldn't just do one. Two new top mounts of course. And 2 drop links as they were cheap enough and would have been off anyway. Over the top maybe, but that's me.
Enough spiel. How to do it...
Usual disclaimer. Don't mess with something you're not sure about - think safety of yourself and others. Make sure you have access to proper tools.
This operation involves a big spring. Please don't mess about with these. They can kill or maim you and others. They are dangerous. Be warned! Lecture over for now.
Under the bonnet, remove the heater plenum cover. Mine had been off before and had been replaced with self tappers - I think they are normally plastic pegs.
Lever off the plastic caps on the wiper spindles and undo the nut. Remove the wiper blades.
No need to completely remove the cover - you can work under it.
Loosen the 3 nuts on the top mount and the strut shaft nut - don't remove it yet!
Chock, handbrake, jack up, wheel off.
Loosen the 2 large bolts that secure the hub to the strut.
Undo the drop link - or remove if replacing.
Un clip the brake hose and wire.
Remove 2 large securing bolts and retain the hub with a bit of baler twine!
Remove the 3 strut top mount bolts under the bonnet.
Withdraw the complete strut.
Now the dangerous bit. Using the proper tools, compress the spring enough to relieve pressure on the top mount. Note my use of ratchet straps - this is an extra safety measure as the spring compressors are known to slip.
New strut with fitted spring and top mount.
Line up the top mount studs as close as you can before refitting on the car. The plastic thread caps provide a lead in and protect the threads.
Bolt everything back up to the recommended torque.
Now for the other side....
Since then, I have been getting an annoying knock on the front suspension. Initially only on the side that was unloaded on corners, hitting a bump or pothole. Over time, this knock deteriorated to being there over most bumps, on the drivers side. It had also passed another MOT in this condition.
Investigating with my limited resources revealed nowt.
I decided to grasp the nettle and replace the strut top mount - not an uncommon issue with the Dobby - mines a 263 with 70k on it.
As these things snowball, I ended up spending over £150 on new struts, mounts and drop links. The previous mechanic had either tightened up the top strut nut with a windy gun or was a muscular sort of dude. Either way, the nut was cruncho deluxe hyper hernia tight, so the shaft split at the hex. Some people would have undone the nut windy style and replaced as-was. I don't have the lack of integrity to do that, so new strut, which means two struts as I couldn't just do one. Two new top mounts of course. And 2 drop links as they were cheap enough and would have been off anyway. Over the top maybe, but that's me.
Enough spiel. How to do it...
Usual disclaimer. Don't mess with something you're not sure about - think safety of yourself and others. Make sure you have access to proper tools.
This operation involves a big spring. Please don't mess about with these. They can kill or maim you and others. They are dangerous. Be warned! Lecture over for now.
Under the bonnet, remove the heater plenum cover. Mine had been off before and had been replaced with self tappers - I think they are normally plastic pegs.
Lever off the plastic caps on the wiper spindles and undo the nut. Remove the wiper blades.
No need to completely remove the cover - you can work under it.
Loosen the 3 nuts on the top mount and the strut shaft nut - don't remove it yet!
Chock, handbrake, jack up, wheel off.
Loosen the 2 large bolts that secure the hub to the strut.
Undo the drop link - or remove if replacing.
Un clip the brake hose and wire.
Remove 2 large securing bolts and retain the hub with a bit of baler twine!
Remove the 3 strut top mount bolts under the bonnet.
Withdraw the complete strut.
Now the dangerous bit. Using the proper tools, compress the spring enough to relieve pressure on the top mount. Note my use of ratchet straps - this is an extra safety measure as the spring compressors are known to slip.
New strut with fitted spring and top mount.
Line up the top mount studs as close as you can before refitting on the car. The plastic thread caps provide a lead in and protect the threads.
Bolt everything back up to the recommended torque.
Now for the other side....
