if I blank off my EGR valve my van performs much better at low revs and seems completely normal at higher revs, is this harmfull to my engine ?

It's more of a moral issue really, EGR's reduced nox gases and combined with DPF reduces particulates.

Harmful to your engine......well thats a ongoing argument.

I kind of did just did this an hour ago by disconnecting the electrical connector to EGR and went for a test run. Fed up of all gunk and smoke clogging the engine. Why do people use the blanking plate anyway ? Have i got it wrong way around ?

It felt like a massive difference on the ability to rev and low torque. Its a 1.9JTD. Anybody had any problems doing this ?

I blanked-off the EGR this afternoon and went for a test drive. It's made a difference but not that much, however if it cures that sudden lack of acceleration that leaves me a sitting-duck on roundabouts, then that'll do me for now. I still feel some low-end torque is missing though. At least MPG was instantly a little better (not by much ..0.6mpg)
Next jobs - clean MAF sensor, look at air and fuel filters.

Oh yes, the red engine management light came on during my test drive. I've not read of this happening after others have blanked the EGR. It did come on for a few miles a few weeks back, then cured itself. I believe it means there's a fault in the injection system?

I'd like someone with the same model to have a drive of my car and see how it compares to theirs, if anyone lives locally to me (Tameside, east Manchester)

Sloper said:

I blanked-off the EGR this afternoon and went for a test drive. It's made a difference but not that much, however if it cures that sudden lack of acceleration that leaves me a sitting-duck on roundabouts, then that'll do me for now. I still feel some low-end torque is missing though. At least MPG was instantly a little better (not by much ..0.6mpg)
Next jobs - clean MAF sensor, look at air and fuel filters.

Oh yes, the red engine management light came on during my test drive. I've not read of this happening after others have blanked the EGR. It did come on for a few miles a few weeks back, then cured itself. I believe it means there's a fault in the injection system?

I'd like someone with the same model to have a drive of my car and see how it compares to theirs, if anyone lives locally to me (Tameside, east Manchester)

Click to expand...

why blank the EGR ? you can just unplug the switch and it will never open at all.

I didn't know there was a switch... But anyway, if the valve was stuck open, disconnecting a switch wouldn't help, i'm guessing?

Sloper said:

I didn't know there was a switch... But anyway, if the valve was stuck open, disconnecting a switch wouldn't help, i'm guessing?

Click to expand...

I had the EGR valve apart to clean it. Disconnect the power and the solenoid wont push it open. its a piston action. I think they need the solenoid movement to get stuck, but dont quote me on it. remove front part to EGR.. (diagrams here).... shove it back in if its out, then remove the switch. End of EGR.

Not long ago failed MOT emissions. had all of it out, intercooler pipes, EGR, degunk air inlet. After cleaning, emissions were like a brand new car. 12 weeks later back to throwing carbon out exhaust on rev and low power etc.

I know EGR is not stuck, its just a uselss piece of gear full stop. Car feels much better now. If any long term problems ill post back.

Sloper said:

however if it cures that sudden lack of acceleration that leaves me a sitting-duck on roundabouts,

Click to expand...

It's an oil burner, that's what they do & why some manufacturers chucked a turbo into the mix.
You need to adjust your driving style slightly by touching the throttle as you see a gap coming. This will increase the revs and so spin up the turbo. Your dobbin will then move like s41t off the proverbial shovel.
I don't mean floor the pedal, just bring the engine out of idle.

On most of the heavy mercs I have driven, (against the advice of the mechs) it's been better to pull away in 2nd (using the above scenario) because the torque band in 1st gets you halfway out before dropping off - leaving you stranded mid road, unless you're adept at the ultra-fast gearchange and are happy with the gearbox snatching.

crinklebender said:

I had the EGR valve apart to clean it. Disconnect the power and the solenoid wont push it open. its a piston action. I think they need the solenoid movement to get stuck, but dont quote me on it. remove front part to EGR.. (diagrams here).... shove it back in if its out, then remove the switch. End of EGR.

Not long ago failed MOT emissions. had all of it out, intercooler pipes, EGR, degunk air inlet. After cleaning, emissions were like a brand new car. 12 weeks later back to throwing carbon out exhaust on rev and low power etc.

I know EGR is not stuck, its just a uselss piece of gear full stop. Car feels much better now. If any long term problems ill post back.

Click to expand...

Crinkle, have you got a link to the diagrams?
BTW, it does seem rather strange that some people have no end of problems with egr and others don't.

sludgeguts said:

Crinkle, have you got a link to the diagrams?
BTW, it does seem rather strange that some people have no end of problems with egr and others don't.

Click to expand...

Not on this PC (12 pc user !!) ... Ill leave your email in my box so when i hit the Tech PC it wil still be there to remind me to look it out (50 zillion project person). All thats in the EGR is a really heavy spring, a valve and a heavy duty solenoid which pushes the valve against the spring.

The differences you describe will be due to engine type (major factor), and driving style. Motorway vs stop start, and turbo condition. most of our turbos live in a state of being half done but functional to varying degrees as they are small. Turbos began as large units in sporty cars that never made it past 60,000 miles often. They would be like rockets, then bang, just go. I went through 3 in 2 years once.

I found this turbo stuff out when sorting out the EGR with my garage (Taxi, so TD specialists) . while stripping the doblo i noticed oil seeping from turbo to crankcase and insisted to them i change it. "No, no" they said. All the Deisels we get have turbos in that state... They were right. Cleaning all the gunk and EGR got the emissions down from 3.0 (fail is 1.5) to that of a new engine at 0.3.

you would think the garages would be happy to take your request for the extra buisness in turbo upgrade. But they are right. My turbo is a little underfunctional, but they are now designed to operate like a worn engine. If it was knacked like they used to go in the old sports cars I would have zero power and would have clouds of smoke while idling. It all whacks in it 2000 RPM now. Less than when i got they dobby but still whacks in.

Driving doblo (without EGR) just requires loads of gearchanging to hit 2000 RPM sweet spot ...fast car style driving.

Oh yeh and due to those damn dual mass flywheels, rev to 1500 before you even release the clutch. But under fine control so as no to burn clutch.

Not an easy drive the dobby. but dobby is my workhorse for various jobs (and my campervan)

I have a calibra v6 i keep under a classic car policy, so i can have a taste every now and then of the pleasure driving should feel like. Its always breaking down tho. 105,000 on the doblo and no problem except for EGR muck and flywheel, bolt ons which fiat were forced into.

sludgeguts said:

It's an oil burner, that's what they do & why some manufacturers chucked a turbo into the mix.
You need to adjust your driving style slightly by touching the throttle as you see a gap coming. This will increase the revs and so spin up the turbo. Your dobbin will then move like s41t off the proverbial shovel.
I don't mean floor the pedal, just bring the engine out of idle.

Click to expand...

Sludgeguts, I've driven diesels all day at work for many years, mostly LDVs then Transits. None of them have the low-end flat spot that the Doblo seems to have.
I take your point about bringing the engine out of idle though, I realised this today. I've done a few miles now, since blanking-off the EGR, and there's definitely more torque just above idle than there was before, albeit in a pretty narrow band, as I think you are saying. So this is normal for the Doblo then is it? Maybe there's nowt wrong with my Dobby's performance after all

Incidentally, that 'sitting-duck on roundabouts' definitely wasn't anything to do with my technique.. it happened just a few times but it was mostly fine. On those occasions it happened, there was absolutely zero acceleration for several seconds (which was a bit scary), then all of a sudden full power would come in with a bang, just as quite a few other people on here have experienced.
Cheers

I dont remember all these problems when i got the doblo from a showroom under warranty all that time ago. I just seemed to point n go very nicely.

Over time and my experience i reckon they all become like this due to an interaction of

1. The dual mass flywheel makes take off hard and causes you to wear in the engine to unusual driving style.
2. The turbo wears but are now designed to operate worn as does an engine (so they dont get them back before warranty). Again you then start to whack the engine to compensate. the turbo probably wears due to you whacking it for the other problems.
3. The EGR builds up a load of gunk in the engine which causes piston ring wear, and again you start hammering the thing.

As i have invested a lot of effort in making my doblo a camper (which can revert back to the car) I will consider getting a low mileage replacement in a couple of years to rebuild as a camper. First thing i will do is

1. Disconnect the EGR.
2. Replace the DM flywheel with these new 3 part types (if i can get one).
3. oil and filter change every 4000 miles.
4. Upgrade all the springs and tyres i already have done.

Maybe it will not start becoming a pig at 100,000 miles and drive nicely for as long as Nials doblo then.