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Old 11-09-2012   #31
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Quote Originally Posted by s130 View Post
G
1) we know removing/gutting the DPF will cause a fault code to be thrown as the the differential pressures will be wrong.
i didn't know this i was going to shove a scaffold pole with a point on the end down the middle
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Old 11-09-2012   #32
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

I think Dave on your car (being a later production model) you have just the ONE pressure feed coming off the DPF filter. I have two pipes that lead to a double input sensor.

In your case I'm not sure how the ECU measures the regen threshold. Probably an obsolute pressure value that starts from 0 when the ignition is turned on and rises onces the engine starts and increases as the RPM increases. Basically a differential over normmal air pressure as opposed to pressure across the DPF filter.

It could be that the scaffold pole thrust will work OK but also equally likely that the ECU will detect no rise in pressure.

You could test by pulling the pressure feed hose off the DPF and closing it off. With a little luck you may find that after many miles you still don't get a warning/error. If this is the case then you could leave it shut off and put that pole up your DPF
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Old 11-09-2012   #33
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

wont that sensor think dpf is blocked if it cant detect no presure?
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Old 12-09-2012   #34
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

loads of crap is coming out with jet wash, still feels very heavy, are new ones heavy?
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Old 12-09-2012   #35
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

all back together laptop plugged in, waiting for engine to warm up before i do reset for new dpf.

i must have forgotten some thing as its just started to rain, it normally rains when i am still laying on the floor
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Old 12-09-2012   #36
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

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Old 12-09-2012   #37
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

For those with the 2 pipe pressure differential DPFs, the road to enlightenment is via a remap.

Looks good so far Dave. Are DPFs supposed to be able to allow water through? I thought they were basically capped tubes where the exhaust gas had to permeate through the walls of the tubes to reach the atmosphere side of the DPF.
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Old 12-09-2012   #38
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

flow was very slow, was none at all at first, i did it from both ends for ages, eventually ended up with big pile of black stuff and clear water coming out, i put a kettle of hot water in each end about half way through the job too, that was strange was like coke and mints,
eventually no more black was coming out,
i jetted that pressure sensor feet tube too, lots of black come out of that, now i wondering does the sensor also need a clean?

2 studs got damaged when i ground off seized nuts, water was still coming out each end when i was messing about replacing studs. couldnt find my good mole grips so used vice to get one stud out, other i drilled and replaced with nut n bolt.
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Old 12-09-2012   #39
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Interesting. I'm doing a DPF/Cat removal shortly on mine, swirl flaps are disabled and open (much more responsive at lower rpm//throttle and sounds a lot better) and the EGR will be set not to operate once the engine is warm. I will of course have to have a new exhaust, with one small box and two tailpipes....
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Old 12-09-2012   #40
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Quote Originally Posted by Greg123 View Post
Interesting. I'm doing a DPF/Cat removal shortly on mine, swirl flaps are disabled and open (much more responsive at lower rpm//throttle and sounds a lot better) and the EGR will be set not to operate once the engine is warm. I will of course have to have a new exhaust, with one small box and two tailpipes....
doing the ecu changes yourself?
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Old 13-09-2012   #41
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Pulling the file myself but I have help to modify it, I do 2nd/3rd level support (I'm a VW Audi/diesel/turbo specialist) and generally work around master tech level but programming is not something I have delved into, so I can explain in detail what I want and pull the ecu flash but will have someone help me alter it. I'll probably take a look at what they did on the map and check the operation with diag software obviously, but that's about it. I want the EGR disabled over 70c (but left stock below that for warm up & cold start/run mpg reasons, most people do not realise an egr/egr cooler is also an engine heater and quite necessary for a fast warm up on a modern diesel) and the DPF mapping out completely. Swirl flaps mapped out completely too if I can find them, but the actuator does no real harm sitting there and it's a 'dumb' manifold so I have already disabled them. Later on can come some more agressive tuning, after injectors and the other turbo. Meantime some better efficiency and 250/260hp should have it running better.
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Old 13-09-2012   #42
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

When you dissabled/disconnected your swirl valves I assume? that all you did was disconnect the ball joint and arm linkage that goes to the bottom of number 3 swirl valve?

I'm also guessing that you had to do this from underneath the car as I found it impossibel to get over the top of the engine to the actuator due to the big overhang the inlet manifold has and the closeness of the actuator to the back of the block?

Also how do you hold the swirl valves in the open position? The actuator spring return would normally do that. Are are the stiff enough to just rest in the open position and not move over time with engine vibration?

Finally you say yuo find the car more responsive at low RPM with the swirl valves open. This sounds contrary to their original design purpose. Maybe this is why the MkII Cromas don't appear to have swirl valves.
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Old 13-09-2012   #43
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

No I did it from above, disconnected the ball joint on the electric actuator you can just see it/get a pry bar in carefully. I then pushed all the swirl flaps hard open (even when the bar is across, there is some small movement on each one) and tie wrapped the bar to a waterway metal union near the cambelt end in the middle of the head, basically they are tied in the fully open position.

As for their use, I'm not sure, they do increase swirl but they decrease flow and reduce air, they also increase pumping losses which reduces efficiency. some cars have them one year and not the next, so the difference cannot be a massive one. I really do not know the answer to this. What I can say is:

The engine sounds a ton better, if you close the flaps the car sounds naily and knocks more you can feel that the combustion is not being cushioned by sufficient air and the shock waves are hitting the cylinder more, it revs up better and cleaner without sounding rough and it's noticably quicker off the mark. Also it's smoother and quieter, finally the turbo used to whistle hard and make a bit of a squall when lifting off the throttle, now it's much quieter - this happens because the turbo can flow more air and isn't having to force the air against a brick wall of half the passage ways closed basically, it sounds/feels/runs a lot happier.

The ONLY thing I can say is I do not know if it would affect soot and/or dppf clogging, but it certainly runs better. As my dpf will soon be for the bin I don't care.

On the basis of the experiment, I'd like to remove the manifold, clean the gunk of the egr out, take the flaps fully out and core plug the spindle holes. This will eliminate any chance of a flap breaking into the engine and it will also flow better as it won't have flaps (albeit open) stuck in the middle of a small passageway.



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Quote Originally Posted by s130 View Post
When you dissabled/disconnected your swirl valves I assume? that all you did was disconnect the ball joint and arm linkage that goes to the bottom of number 3 swirl valve?

I'm also guessing that you had to do this from underneath the car as I found it impossibel to get over the top of the engine to the actuator due to the big overhang the inlet manifold has and the closeness of the actuator to the back of the block?

Also how do you hold the swirl valves in the open position? The actuator spring return would normally do that. Are are the stiff enough to just rest in the open position and not move over time with engine vibration?

Finally you say yuo find the car more responsive at low RPM with the swirl valves open. This sounds contrary to their original design purpose. Maybe this is why the MkII Cromas don't appear to have swirl valves.
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Old 13-09-2012   #44
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

Quote Originally Posted by Greg123 View Post
Pulling the file myself but I have help to modify it, I do 2nd/3rd level support (I'm a VW Audi/diesel/turbo specialist) and generally work around master tech level but programming is not something I have delved into, so I can explain in detail what I want and pull the ecu flash but will have someone help me alter it. I'll probably take a look at what they did on the map and check the operation with diag software obviously, but that's about it. I want the EGR disabled over 70c (but left stock below that for warm up & cold start/run mpg reasons, most people do not realise an egr/egr cooler is also an engine heater and quite necessary for a fast warm up on a modern diesel) and the DPF mapping out completely. Swirl flaps mapped out completely too if I can find them, but the actuator does no real harm sitting there and it's a 'dumb' manifold so I have already disabled them. Later on can come some more agressive tuning, after injectors and the other turbo. Meantime some better efficiency and 250/260hp should have it running better.
sounds very interesting, where abouts do you live, do you ever get to any forum meets?
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Old 13-09-2012   #45
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Re: DPF clogged, regen failed maybe?

check engine light is back, only had hand held scanner with me when i was out, it gave a different code P2002 dpf below threshold bank 1 i cleared it twice when out.

got home and fes/mes was still giving same code as before blocked dpf. but in the live data bit its still saying dpf status not clogged. ive removed and tried to clean differential sensor now, dont know if that has anything to do with it......to be continued........
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