Got a bit of trouble with the Cinq's gearbag I can engage gears perfectly if the engine's off, but as soon as the engine's running, then the gears are a real PITA to engage. Gonna check the transmission oil ASAP, but does anyone have any other ideas as to what to check?

Cheers

Clutch. When the engine is off nothing is moving. If the clutch does not disengage properly then the box will still be turning as you move the syncros.

Cheers

D

Deffo the clutch. Try adjustment. It's either adjustment, worn out clutch or contamination (generally a knackered crankshaft oil seal).

Cheers guys.

Could it be clutch cable related? :chin:

Could it be clutch cable related?

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A snapped cable would give those results as would the above. Does the clutch pedal go straight to the floor? Has the plastic quadrant thing fallen to bits?

fingers99 said:

A snapped cable would give those results as would the above. Does the clutch pedal go straight to the floor? Has the plastic quadrant thing fallen to bits?

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No, cable's intact AFAIK. I was wondering if it could have stretched or something

chaos said:

No, cable's intact AFAIK. I was wondering if it could have stretched or something

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You can try adjucting the cable it can't hurt, is the clutch pedal higher than the brake? it could be the cable is on its way out, I found last time my cable went the gears were a bit hard to engage for a couple of days before it snapped

Clutch pedal is about 10 - 15mm lower than the brake pedal. Clutch pedal travel is just over 110mm.

I've taken it for a run - it's not 100% right, but it is better. Sometimes need a second go to engage first and very occassionally a second go and engaging second. Selecting reverse can cause grinding or the car 'jumping' when reverse is selected.

Clutch is definately not disengaging. Try a further adjustment, or it could be new clutch time, if the release bearing has worn through the cover.

Cheers

D

There I was, adjusting the cable then bang! - cable breaks while I was pressing the pedal to settle the cable after adjusting it. New cable time

There you go just as I said gears can get a bit hard to engage a few days before the cable snaps.

I'm guesssing it has gone on the hook bit inside as usual. What I found last time mine went was that the hook only fractured halfway through and then the remaining half tickness of the shaft stretched and stretched making the gears sticky until it eventually broke.

for future readers of this thread It is worth checking for this if you are having similar probs to Chaos

allanhelen said:

for future readers of this thread It is worth checking for this if you are having similar probs to Chaos

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I'm having more problems :bang:

It has broken at the hook - snapped clean in half. Although the split pin has been a right PITA - I ended up cutting it off and replacing it. However, I have a slightly more pressing (and more embarrassing) problem. I CAN'T GET THE F***ING ALLOY OFF!!!! I can't get at the bulkhead bolts with the wheel in place. It was bad enough not being able to fit the trolley jack under the suspension to jack it up (and the Fiat supplied jack is a joke TBH - I couldn'r get mine to work )

It's a standard alloy BTW - do I need to anything to the centre bolt? I thought I only had to remove the 4 bolts............

I've always wanted to give this bit of advice... Give the wheel a really good kick that will solve the problem and you do only need to remove the 4 bolts

The wheels and hub quite often sieze together with corrosion especially if its been on for a while, when you refit the wheel a smear of copper slip on the contact area on the back of the wheel will stop it happening again.

I have probs getting my trolley jack under the car since it was lowered, use the fiat jack to just raise the suspension just enough to be able to put your trolley jack under.

And you can just get to the bolts without removing the wheel trough the engine bay but you will have to work by touch, I managed it this way last time as I changed it at the side of the road

allanhelen said:

I've always wanted to give this bit of advice... Give the wheel a really good kick that will solve the problem and you do only need to remove the 4 bolts

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Don't forget to remove the bolts FIRST

Yeah, the alloy had corroded on a bit - went back to it and it almost fell off, lol.
Managed to get the clutch cable sorted and adjusted nicely I spent about 1.5 - 2.5 hours on the change - but spent more time doing battle with jacks, losing washers, etc etc I kinda had to take the wheel off as there was no room for my elbow and shoulder. It was much easier with the wheel off though