Technical 00 Sei 0.9 rear bump stop issue and knock

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Technical 00 Sei 0.9 rear bump stop issue and knock

Irish Steve

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Wife's Sei has developed a knock on the rear, which I thought originally (based on searching here) was a swinging arm bush, so threw the car on a friend's ramp to have a look, and while the bushes may be going, the more urgent and difficult issue is that the bump stop mounting cone on the passenger side has rusted, so the bump stop is rattling around loose in the spring, so probably contributing to the knock when it hits a bump. Even if that's not the eventual cause, the bump stop will have to be repaired before the next annual test (not due till October, so a bit of time to play with), as that will be a certain fail.

So, it looks like the sub frame has to be dropped in order to be able to do a good welding job on the bump stop mount, it might be possible to weld a new plate on there, but I don't like welding uphill from under the car, there's too many chances of a hot spot in uncomfortable places :mad:

From what I can see of it, the sub frame is held on by 4 bolts, which in theory should not be a major issue, what I don't know is if the nuts that those bolts go into are welded to the bodywork, or if they have to be held with a spanner while removing the bolts. I'm guessing that they are captive, and hoping that they are out of the "at risk" area for rusting, so in theory, the sub frame should be relatively easy to get off, (with appropriate weight reductions to make it easier), the only other things to deal with being the handbrake cables and the brake pipes, and the exhaust hanger.

Is it that easy, or am I heading in to a world of pain to sort this out, given the age of the vehicle, there are questions about the validity of doing this work, the main bodywork is not rusted, the sub frame needs a darn good going over with a wire brush and some rust cure or similar, as do the swinging arms, and I'm guessing that while it's that far stripped, I'd be as well to replace the bushes on the swinging arms, to cover the possibility that one or more of them are the cause of the knock, and also check the shocks and bushes in case they are a contributor to the noise.

We did give all 4 a good prod and push with the gorilla bar, and there's no evidence of movement, but I guess I'll only know for sure when we get it stripped.

My fear is that one or more of the sub frame bolts will be seized or worse, and if that's the case, it could be terminal, unless it's possible to get to the nuts from inside the car.

Any and all guidance appreciated, as I may not have a lot of time to do this job, my wife is the daughter's baby sitter, so needs the car most week days, which doesn't give me a lot of time if something goes wrong with the project.
 
Wife's Sei has developed a knock on the rear, which I thought originally (based on searching here) was a swinging arm bush, so threw the car on a friend's ramp to have a look, and while the bushes may be going, the more urgent and difficult issue is that the bump stop mounting cone on the passenger side has rusted, so the bump stop is rattling around loose in the spring, so probably contributing to the knock when it hits a bump. Even if that's not the eventual cause, the bump stop will have to be repaired before the next annual test (not due till October, so a bit of time to play with), as that will be a certain fail.

So, it looks like the sub frame has to be dropped in order to be able to do a good welding job on the bump stop mount, it might be possible to weld a new plate on there, but I don't like welding uphill from under the car, there's too many chances of a hot spot in uncomfortable places :mad:

From what I can see of it, the sub frame is held on by 4 bolts, which in theory should not be a major issue, what I don't know is if the nuts that those bolts go into are welded to the bodywork, or if they have to be held with a spanner while removing the bolts. I'm guessing that they are captive, and hoping that they are out of the "at risk" area for rusting, so in theory, the sub frame should be relatively easy to get off, (with appropriate weight reductions to make it easier), the only other things to deal with being the handbrake cables and the brake pipes, and the exhaust hanger.

Is it that easy, or am I heading in to a world of pain to sort this out, given the age of the vehicle, there are questions about the validity of doing this work, the main bodywork is not rusted, the sub frame needs a darn good going over with a wire brush and some rust cure or similar, as do the swinging arms, and I'm guessing that while it's that far stripped, I'd be as well to replace the bushes on the swinging arms, to cover the possibility that one or more of them are the cause of the knock, and also check the shocks and bushes in case they are a contributor to the noise.

We did give all 4 a good prod and push with the gorilla bar, and there's no evidence of movement, but I guess I'll only know for sure when we get it stripped.

My fear is that one or more of the sub frame bolts will be seized or worse, and if that's the case, it could be terminal, unless it's possible to get to the nuts from inside the car.

Any and all guidance appreciated, as I may not have a lot of time to do this job, my wife is the daughter's baby sitter, so needs the car most week days, which doesn't give me a lot of time if something goes wrong with the project.
Just carried out the same repair on a Cinquecento which is exactly the same set up. I actually replaced the subframe/rear axle with a good secondhand one that i reconditioned because the old one was rusted and holed beyond repair. Also be prepared to weld the chassis mounting areas as these are very well known for rust/rot issues.

It is a you described. 4 bolts which 'should' come undone without to much trouble as the captive nuts are withing the chassis and don't suffer from exposure to water/rust. The trailing arm bushes can be a pain to replace, I had to burn away the rubber parts and then hacksaw through the bush out steel and then fold it in on itself to get it out, quite a job. Also you will need access to a decent hydraulic press to insert the new bushes.

Any other questions fire away. 20161214_113600.jpeg
My rusted old rear axle/subframe.

20161214_113631.jpeg
Holes in the chassis mounting areas that required plating.

Good luck.
 
Also before you look to go into all that make sure the bump stop hasn't just popped out of its locating points, there should be a cup set up on the axle that the bump pops into with 4 locating tabs. Might save you a lot of needless work.

From start to finish, working in a confined single garage, on my back it took me about 3 to 4 days including welding the chassis and fitting the bushes working by myself.

On a ramp, with a helping hand from someone with all the proper kit ready and waiting its probably a day or 2.
 
Thanks for that, I know that the bump stop mount has failed as the nut is still attached to the bump stop on the bolt, and there's a very big hole in the mount where a small bolt hole should be.

From what I can see of it, the main chassis is not too bad, there's no evidence of rust around the edges of the subframe, but that doesn't mean I won't find problems when I get in there. If I can plan it right, I can get access to a decent 2 poster ramp if I need it, which will make it about as accessible as it could be, and other appropriate garage tools like hydraulic presses, a MIG welder and the like are available, so that side of it doesn't worry me too much, and if worst comes to worst and I end up doing some of it at home here, I have access to a small MIG welder and the like here as well.

I will check the local breakers to see if there's a sub frame at a sensible price, it would be a lot easier to drop the entire existing one and put a known good (refurbished) one in to replace it, but that sort of luck doesn't often come my way. I may even look to see if I can pick up a scrapper myself, and then dispose of what I don't need after I've sorted the back end out. Snag is, they are getting scarce here in Ireland, and some of the breakers don't part them any more, they get cleaned of contaminants and crushed, as there's not much demand for spares for them any more.

I can't complain, we've had it for at least 10 years. and in that time, apart from consumables, I've only had to fit a replacement fuel tank, radiator fan motor, a new thermostat and some new hydraulic tappets, so it's doesn't owe me anything, my wife still likes it, and strange to say, it's one of the few small cars I don't mind driving, and even fully loaded with 4 adults, it's surprisingly good on fuel even at motorway speeds, so if I can keep it alive for a bit longer, I will. I put electric window motors and central locking on it a while back, which made it a bit nicer to use.

I will see how it goes, the comments you've made are encouraging, if the sub frame comes off relatively easily, then the job won't be so bad.
 
Dropped my axle beam a few weeks ago and the bolts looked as if they would be rusted solid, well much to my surprise they all came straight out no problem

I had all my suspension parts shot blasted and powder coated far easier and less time consuming than a wire brush and paint brush

As said by Jaygrint the swinging arm bushes are a pain to remove and I used exactly the same method, heat up the bush until it catches fire and burns the middle out , assemble hacksaw through the remainder and cut through bush outer sleeve , if you cut through in two places preferably opposite the first cut they come out a lot easier

I cleaned the arm bores out with a flap wheel and pulled the new bushes in using 12mm threaded bar, some big flat washers and 12 MM. nuts
I also used a smear of grease on the bush outer to aid fitting
 
well seems pretty well covered but yes, even if it looks totally fine be prepared for the fact there maybe some repairs needed to mounting points once it comes off even if it looks totally fine. While you are there with a welder and it being a seicento have a bloody good poke around the rear seatbelt anchor points and along the boot floor to rear arch seam as thats where nearly all of them go first.
 
Well, after a longer than expected delay due to the 2 poster ramp I use being blocked by a long repair to a Rav4, and having to get my Isuzu through the annual test first, I've started the job today.

The sub frame came out relatively easily, as the tank mounting bolts were disturbed a while back, and the 4 mounting bolts were not seized. I took the handbrake cable off the front shaft to get enough movement at the backplates to remove the cables.

The offside brake pipe was a pig, had to grab the flexi with a mole wrench to stop the whole thing turning in the sub frame, but it eventually came out. The front exhaust hanger didn't appreciate the extra pressure of the sub frame hanging on the exhaust, and let go, but that's an easy replacement, the flexi pipe is still OK.

One of the bottom shock bolts sheared, but I'm not too worried, I got lucky, the local breakers had a Seicento in recently, so I got the entire rear sub frame and swinging arms, and that came apart very readily, with no hassles, the shocks are in much better condition, so they will be used on the rebuild.
The swinging arm bushes are a PAIN!. I have 2 out, simplest solution was to press the rubber out in the hydraulic press, then hacksaw the steel case, and belt it with a small cold chisel, I'm not looking forward to putting the new ones in. One of the centre steel bushes pretty much fell out of the bush, so that's a clue about the knocks.

The good news is that there's no corrosion evident in critical places, despite it being 17 years old, the back bumper mounts are looking a little the worse for wear, but they should pass this year. The replacement sub frame will get a wire brushing and some new paint, to help it last a little longer. That's tomorrow's task, along with finishing the bush replacements, I just hope the 12mm threaded bar trick will pull them in.

I will update with progress as the job progresses, it's being done this weekend as the ramp is available till Tuesday due to a Bank Holiday on Monday, which means not quite as much pressure to get the job finished.
 
It lives again!. Just back from the workshop, the brakes needed 2 of us to bleed them, and I needed weight on wheels before the swinging arm bolts were tightened, so the quickest solution there was to take my home ramps up to the garage, and put the back on them as it came off the ramp so that I could get under it still, a quick check round the levels, a test drive, and all appears to be well, it's a lot quieter over the potholes than it was, which was why I decided to change the back bushes, and it now has the required number of bump stops, which avoid hassles with the tester.

For what it's worth, the bushes were pressed out using an undersize long reach socket to get the rubber bit out, they didn't need support under the bush being pressed, then hacksaw through the metal cover, and then a thin cold steel chisel to loosen it, lots of grease, and started the new bushes using a hydraulic bottle jack between the centres, then a bit of fiddling to get it into the hydraulic press and use that to press them the rest of the way in. Don't use the hydraulic press on the new ones going in without supporting under the one that's being pressed, there is a risk of distorting the arm due to the pressure being used.

The brake pipes are better connected before putting the tank back up, there's more room to swing the spanner, and I didn't put the springs back in until the pipes were connected, a gearbox jack under the hub made that easy.

It's nice to be able to drive it without knocks and bangs from the back end!
 
Even better, after the weekend repairing the rear end, it's been given some new tyres, and went in for the annual test. One fail item, which is not findable easily without a rolling road, the rear brakes were out of balance, but everything else was fine, including all the work done on the back end.

The rear shoes were replaced, along with the wheel cylinders and the handbrake cable, which was starting to fail, the outer sleeve had broken at one point, and that's a guarantee of water getting in and causing problems, it's just back from the retest, and is now legal again for 14 months, albeit that the brake imbalance is more than I'd like, but the test system is happy.

I do wonder if the test is skewed for lighter vehicle like the Seicento as a result of having the tester in the vehicle, but no weight on the passenger side, so the load on the rolling road is not the same each side. Either way, it's passed, so I can relax on that score for a few months.
 
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