Hi....

I'm new to the board...so hello!

Story
I bought a Fiat Bravo 1998 1.4sx from my brother , who lost the blue key just before he left for Bermuda.

To try and fix this, he called someone out , who i think may have changed the ECU chip, however the key he tried to program didn't work.

Being the smarter brother , i called the pub and they had his original BLUE FIAT key. (that's the only key he had..no red one)

Does anyone know if the original blue key is likely to work if someone has replaced the ECU chip?

I haven't been to the car yet as it is about 20miles away and immobile.

Cheers

Rob

was it a decoded ecu or brand new 'virgin' ecu?

Thanks for the reply..

I'm not sure....i think it was a new one?

will it make much difference?

if it was a decoded ecu then any key will work, even an unchipped one, or a screwdriver. bascially the immob would be disabled.

if it was a brand new virgin ecu then it would pair with the code box in the car as soon as it was plugged in, effectively making it exactly the same as the original ecu. in that case the original blue key will work unless the codebox was also changed or faulty.

if it was a used ecu, the blue key wont work, no key will. you must buy a used ecu complete with its matching codebox and at least one working key to match that code box (red key very strongly advised because you can use that to teach the codebox any blue key code).

we know the previous attempt failed to successfully program a key (which key? what colour? where from?). if there was no red key available that would explain why this failed. if there was a red key, but it wasnt the original red key for the codebox that would also explain why. similarly if the codebox was not paired to the ecu (used ecu) that would also explain why.

Wow thanks Jug , your a fountain of knowledge!!

I will take your advice and just have to see what response i get when i try the key...

I cant wait till flying cars come next out..imagine your clutch failing at 10k feet!

If only all cars where as simple to manage as a fiesta 1.1 (bring back the old days)

Cheers

Rob

Rob Neary said:

If only all cars where as simple to manage as a fiesta 1.1 (bring back the old days)

Click to expand...

when all you had to worry about was adjusting valve clearances and topping up oil once a week
timing chains are a great idea, probably the best thing about the HCS engines

pah i remember losing half a knuckle doing an engine swap in a fiesta on the rear engine mount. no thanks

I just spoke to the guy who did the chip and he said it was a brand new one....however when he tried re programing a new key it wouldnt work and it kept burning out the chips?

jug said:

if it was a decoded ecu then any key will work, even an unchipped one, or a screwdriver. bascially the immob would be disabled.

if it was a brand new virgin ecu then it would pair with the code box in the car as soon as it was plugged in, effectively making it exactly the same as the original ecu. in that case the original blue key will work unless the codebox was also changed or faulty.

if it was a used ecu, the blue key wont work, no key will. you must buy a used ecu complete with its matching codebox and at least one working key to match that code box (red key very strongly advised because you can use that to teach the codebox any blue key code).

we know the previous attempt failed to successfully program a key (which key? what colour? where from?). if there was no red key available that would explain why this failed. if there was a red key, but it wasnt the original red key for the codebox that would also explain why. similarly if the codebox was not paired to the ecu (used ecu) that would also explain why.

Click to expand...

Rob Neary said:

I just spoke to the guy who did the chip and he said it was a brand new one....however when he tried re programing a new key it wouldnt work and it kept burning out the chips?

Click to expand...

i dont know what me means, burning out what chips

without the original red key he could not program a new key. a new ecu makes no difference.

if the original red key was not available, the new ecu should not have been plugged in. once it was plugged in it became the same as the old ecu. but now that you have an original blue key the car should work.

Thanks for the advice....i never new so much about ECU's!

He sounded like a bit of a cowboy , but he was helpful in other ways...

I guess the only way to find out is to try...what happens if the immobiliser doesnt work? (sounds stupid i know) ..is there any starter noise or lights on the dashboard?

Cheers

Rob

Rob Neary said:

I guess the only way to find out is to try...what happens if the immobiliser doesnt work? (sounds stupid i know) ..is there any starter noise or lights on the dashboard?

Click to expand...

there is an orange key code light on the dash, if it remains lit you know you have a key code problem. the starter motor will turn, but the fuel pump will not get any power. you can hot wire the fuel pump's earth (to a switch if you want) to get around this

Well i tried the keys and they didn't work.....it sounded like the fuel was cut off....the AA guy said the same....

So it looks like i will have to re do the ecu and locks etc

Thanks for all your help Jug!

was the code light on at all?

The code light didn't come on at all...

It was trying to start but the fuel was cut off...

when you turn the igntion on the code light should at least flash up.sounds to me like an immobiliser issue.check all the ECU connections you disturbed and the code box.
worst case you could get a mckritch chip to bypass the immobiliser circuit

hotwire the fuel pump to bypass the immob. then at least you'll know if the immob is the problem. i probably shouldn't say this on a forum but all you need to do is earth the fuel pump.

Cheers man....this may help others...

Resetting The ECU

THIS WILL NOT RESET THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT
This is the basic reset which will restore the various positions back to factory setting.

Disconnect the battery for a minimum of 45 minutes. Simply remove the earth side (-) and pull to one side.

When you reconnect the battery and start the car for the first time do NOT rev then engine for 5 minutes. This allows all the postioning motors to go back to default. Once the 5 minutes is up you may stop and restart the car then drive normally.

All the "reset" does is put the positioners such as the IACV back to factory setting. The car will then relearn the positions required for the conditions you put your car under. However if you drive your car hard from the off after doing this, it will expect to be driven like that al the time and therefore may feel a little sluggish unless really pushed. Also, whilst this relearning is taking place you may experience higher running costs.

You will not have to reprogramme any keys afterwards and your radio should not loose its code either. You will have to alter the time unless its a H2 where if you put it to an FM station it will pick up the time automarically.

Key Code Light On Battery
If the key code light stays on the 1st thing to check is the battery condition.