General 85hp TwinAir purchase - oil question

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General 85hp TwinAir purchase - oil question

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Thank you! I came across this old oil that is 5w30 ACEA C3 - could I use it as a topper upper with 5w40 ? IMG_0419.JPGIMG_0420.JPG
 
C3 5W40 will be fine for the car... good compromise between 5W40 (more traditional viscosity) and 0W30 (trendy runny stuff).

The thinning of oil was to get drag down and reduce enmissions.. you will almost certainly use / lose more of it as the engine wears in.

The 1.2s were will known for loosening up nicely after 10-12k miles, improved performance and economy.... Manufacturers went for tight tolerances but maybe now they slackened them for better economy ?
 
Hi everyone

I need to ask the same question about recommended oil for a 2011 (euro5) twinair.
I cannot find in stock the factory recommended Selenia 5W-40 C3

One oil type mentioned in this thread , the Petronas Syntium 3000 AV , is available here.

What are my other options ? (proved to work reliable).
 
I've gone with this for ours, although waiting for a dry day to actually do the oil change...!

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I've gone with this for ours, although waiting for a dry day to actually do the oil change...!

You might want to read this post , and the rest of the accompanying thread, and particularly this:

I did try Castrol latest offering a month ago when I was doing my water pump, but engine did not sound/feel right so I dropped the oil and replaced with my usual Millers , ran lovely again in minutes

Personally I would not use Magnatec (of any grade) in a TA.

The oil you've bought would work just fine in a 1.2, though.
 
I did see that back along, but read a previous post in this thread by foambullets who has not had a problem with Magnatec...

Don't know what to do now as I've got 7 litres of the stuff sat there...🙄

I used to have it serviced at a local garage and the guy was aware how picky the T/A engine is and it always ran well after a change, but I don't know what brand he used. He always referred to it as PD oil as used in certain VW diesel engines which are also pretty picky...

He's packed in now, which is why I was going to do it myself...

Will most likely get some back up oil then...
 
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I did see that back along, but read a previous post in this thread by foambullets who has not had a problem with Magnatec

...and if you search more widely on the 'net, you'll find reviews ranging anywhere from 'first class product' to 'spawn of the devil'. And since manufacturers 'silently' change oil specs almost as often as they change their underwear, any review that's more than a year or so old may be for a different product with the same name.

What puts me off more is that Magnatec is only a midrange product. Given that a uniair module will likely cost north of £1500 fitted, I wouldn't be looking to save a few pennies on the oil. And to protect both that and the turbo, then regardless of what brand I went for, I'd at least want to give myself the best chance by choosing the premium product in that manufacturer's range, which Magnatec isn't.

Don't what to do now as I've got 7 litres of the stuff sat there

7 litres is good for two changes + topups in between; you might find a 1.2 owner on the forum who'd buy it from you.
 
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Petronas Syntium 0w 30 fully synthetic oil. As its been said before the oil is critical to the engine as its also effectively acting as hydraulic oil for the Uniair valve operation system. The wrong grade of oil WILL mess it up and could ruin the uniair unit and you will need £1000 to sort that out. I have run on Catrol edge 0w 30 and the car was OK but having researched this and asked for technical advice in a few places I would not deviate from teh recommend oil which is what its very specifically designed around. In 2017 Fiat changes the oil change interval from 18000 to 9000 miles. I would stick to teh 9000 interval. The crankcase is sealed adn it develops a LOT of nasty mayonaise. All TA engines do so a more regular oil change is highly recommended. I would add my view to the others that say do not use 0w 40 in the TA. This is a VERY very high tech engine and it needs to be maintained right if you want it to be reliable.

The car has an oil sensor in the engine and its known to need an oil reset in the cars computer (menu access via the dashboard) on occasion to prevent things going haywire. You need to ensure the level is absolutely correct before performing this action. On my two TA's the dipstick has been 100% unreliable!!! The dip stick is not to be trusted mine reads half when full. The oil does not adhere to the plastic stick. I have made a new steel dipstick which gives a totally different reading every single time. This I trust, but not the cars own one.

The TA has a small oil sump so checking and maintaining the oil at the correct level is more important than ever.

Its advisable to ensure the engine is started regularly to avoid draindown of the Uniair unit. If this occurs the car will be very difficult to start and I suspect the uniair unit may be subject to damage while it struggles to repressurise. I reckon a weekly start is needed to ensure this issue is kept at bay. After a week mine have both run oddly for a few minutes until the system recovers.

There is a small oil filter on the Uniair unit which is NOT part of Fiats service schedule. Its a very fine filter to protect the Uniair unit. My car is 5 in may and I have instructed Fiat dealer I want this filter checked and cleaned or even changed if necessary at its next service which I have relented and booked with them to keep the service book stamped. The filter is not hard to get to once the engine cover is removed, just a single bolt. Quote is 234 for the labour, I have already got the parts which were about £65 so expensive but not quite a new mortgage job.
 
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Ours only does approx 3000 miles a year and still gets an annual oil change.

My dad was in the trade for many years and always says oil is cheaper than engines...

These days oil buying is more of a minefield than it once was 🥵
 
You might want to read this post , and the rest of the accompanying thread, and particularly this:



Personally I would not use Magnatec (of any grade) in a TA.

The oil you've bought would work just fine in a 1.2, though.

So , if i understand correctly , the option i have in my local market , for 5W-40 C3 Petronas Syntium 3000 AV , is the right choice ?
 
So , if i understand correctly , the option i have in my local market , for 5W-40 C3 Petronas Syntium 3000 AV , is the right choice
IIRC the oil spec changed during the production run. Early cars were 5W40, later ones 0W30. It's possible (though I don't know for sure) that the programming for the uniair actuator may have changed at the same time. If the temperature/viscosity curve for the oil you use doesn't match what's been programmed, it won't run properly.

So double check with your car's handbook to find out which one is right for your specific car.
 
I've just been chatting to a neighbour who's family run a small fleet of Panda's including a T/A and ended up swapping my Magnatec for some Edge...👍
 
IIRC the oil spec changed during the production run. Early cars were 5W40, later ones 0W30. It's possible (though I don't know for sure) that the programming for the uniair actuator may have changed at the same time. If the temperature/viscosity curve for the oil you use doesn't match what's been programmed, it won't run properly.

So double check with your car's handbook to find out which one is right for your specific car.

Yes i am aware of this.
Mine is a 2011 , so it's 5W40.

Thanks for your reply.
 
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