Hey guys, does anyone use or know of Corrosion X, was thinking of using this to prevent my exhaust from rusting. Or is it too harsh for our cars? If so, what do other people use?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
General Corrosion X
- Thread starter EpicBlueEm
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General Corrosion X
I was always under the impression that car exhaust systems rusted from the inside out.
When you burn anything, water is given off, and it's that water inside the exhaust system that causes the rust. I seem to remember that burning a gallon of petrol produces a pint of water.
Hopefully someone will come on to confirm what I've said. :worship:
If and when our's needs replacing, I'll be getting a stainless system. We have a 2001 Renault Clio we've had since brand new, and it's still on the original system and only ever needed a rear rubber mount.
Regards,
Mick.
When you burn anything, water is given off, and it's that water inside the exhaust system that causes the rust. I seem to remember that burning a gallon of petrol produces a pint of water.
Hopefully someone will come on to confirm what I've said. :worship:
If and when our's needs replacing, I'll be getting a stainless system. We have a 2001 Renault Clio we've had since brand new, and it's still on the original system and only ever needed a rear rubber mount.
Regards,
Mick.
One of my old 500s had a mullered exhaust back box and I knocked the seller down £200 because of it, it was completed rusted and bits of it had fallen off.
I then learned that they are double skinned and it passed it's MoT fine. It's just an outside casing, don't look very pretty, but then it's underneath, so who cares.
I then learned that they are double skinned and it passed it's MoT fine. It's just an outside casing, don't look very pretty, but then it's underneath, so who cares.
Our car is 7 years old, the outside skin of the back box has half come off and the pipe clamp has vanished but its still fine for now, yes most systems rust from the inside out usually just where they've been welded or on really exposed outside faces just leave it until its totally goosed, cheap whole system can be got for £90
Actually they rust from both sides towards the middle. That they rust from the outside as well is evidenced by the common failure of the outer skin, leaving the inner shell intact and the exhaust still roadworthy.
Salt from the road in winter worsens external corrosion, and sulphuric acid formed during the combustion process worsens internal corrosion - so using low sulphur fuels will likely help to prolong the life of your exhaust.
You can apply various substances to mitigate exterior corrosion (but be aware of the obvious fire risk if using anything with a volatile flammable component), but internal corrosion is harder to control. However well you protect the outside, it'll rust from inside eventually, though it will last longer. Not using the car for short journeys, particularly in cold weather, helps considerably.
Stainless steel systems shouldn't corrode, but stainless steel is more brittle and much more difficult to weld, so in the very long term, a S/S replacement may fail due to fatigue. They can be prone to internal baffles coming loose, leaving you with a permanently rattling exhaust.
One practical thing you can do is to ensure the small drain hole in the backbox is clear - it's there to allow any condensation which may form inside the exhaust to drain away. You should be able to feel a small amount of exhaust gas passing through this hole when the engine is running (be careful not to burn your fingers), and ther's commonly a small sooty deposit around the hole. If it gets blocked, the life of your exhaust will likely be reduced.
There's a picture of the drain hole on a new backbox here, from this thread.
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Hey guys, does anyone use or know of Corrosion X, was thinking of using this to prevent my exhaust from rusting. Or is it too harsh for our cars? If so, what do other people use?
Thanks in advance
Hi,
I'd never heard of it..,
so got googling = http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...comparison-published-fine-woodworking-247773/
TBH I'd NEVER considered any form of treatment on a car exhaust as:
1, they get HOT , catalyst sees to that..
2, are cheap to replace - rear box is @£30
lack of use / short journeys will fill the rear section of ANY exhaust with water , so it'll rust from the inside out.
Charlie
lack of use / short journeys will fill the rear section of ANY exhaust with water , so it'll rust from the inside out.
Which is why the drain hole is there and why it's important to keep it clear. Internal corrosion often causes the drain hole to become blocked, which means the backbox fills with water and corrodes more rapidly.
Disclaimer and warning: Please don't try this at home!
As an experiment, I once applied the entire contents of a large tub of copper grease to the mild steel exhaust on a then brand new Mk1 Ford Ka, rubbing it well into the seams.
I then parked the car a long way from anything flammable and ran the car up to temperature with a good quality fire extinguisher close at hand. The initial smoke & fumes had to be seen to be believed but it cleared after about 15 mins and the end result was a hard dry coating over the whole exhaust which was surprisingly well attached.
That exhaust was still going strong when I sold the car at 10yrs/100k; significantly longer than I'd have expected a mild steel exhaust to last.
On my 500, I removed the backbox when the car was new and sprayed it with high temperature aluminised paint, giving all the seams a double coat; it smelt quite strongly for the first day but the backbox is still good after 6 1/2 yrs and crucially the outer skin is still intact; I'd otherwise have expected this to fail by now.
Make of all this what you will, but be very careful not to set your car on fire.
Whatever you use, in this application any solvent content will be quickly burnt off, so the capability of the residue is what's important. IMO minimising water ingress to the seams is the key, as that's where most exhausts first rust out.
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I suppose I should be more specific, I was meaning more for the exhaust tip, the visible part, just for appearance reasons really I guess. Or is the tip only chrome plated?
Sorry about that, thanks
Sorry about that, thanks
I suppose I should be more specific, I was meaning more for the exhaust tip, the visible part, just for appearance reasons really I guess. Or is the tip only chrome plated?
Sorry about that, thanks
The tip is just a chrome plated tack welded cosmetic add-on, and not particularly good chrome at that. It's more prone to rusting than it should be.
Keep it clean and use a good quality wax polish or even a light coating of WD40 rubbed well in.
Whatever you use, you'll likely have to apply it frequently.
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gar074
Prominent member
You're probably as well off using Preparation H on your exhaust instead of Corrosion X.
BigKev
New member
...Or Solvol Autosol. I use this to maintain a superbly shiny, rust-free tail-pipe trim after nearly 7 years and 43,000 miles. Shines like a tanner up a sweep's a*se, so it does!
I was way too young and unknowledgable to understand that without the use of Google haha :')
