Hi guys,
Anyone have a set of camber block handy and can post up some measurement's/dimension's would be much appreciated. TIA

Why are you fitting these items? It is much easier (and probably cheaper) to get a new set of top wish-bones and modify them if you are trying to put negative camber on the front wheels (which for road use, should be zero--i.e. the wheels are vertical)

the hobbler said:

Why are you fitting these items? It is much easier (and probably cheaper) to get a new set of top wish-bones and modify them if you are trying to put negative camber on the front wheels (which for road use, should be zero--i.e. the wheels are vertical)

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Thanks Hobbler.
Whilst the workshop is wee bit slow for nxt couple of weeks thought I would put the lads to work and knock a set up for me it's a quick fix just so I can get the car licenced. Once licenced I will be fitting wishbone suspension lic dept wont pass it with upgraded suspension.


cheers

It is far easier,and quicker, to modify the top wishbones. Extend the hole that the front upright bush bolt goes through 10mm IN. You then weld a washer on the OUTER sides of the top wishbones, to reinforce the new hole, and if you are sensible, back-fill (with weld) the old hole---clean everything up with a powerfile and you end up with top wishbones that will give you just about zero camber (which is what you want for road use). You might still have to play around with camber shims to get to the correct figure. Toe-in is, again, best set at zero---the important detail is to make sure that your track-rods are EXACTLY the same length--if they are of different lengths you will bugger up the "Ackerman effect".

the hobbler said:

It is far easier,and quicker, to modify the top wishbones. Extend the hole that the front upright bush bolt goes through 10mm IN. You then weld a washer on the OUTER sides of the top wishbones, to reinforce the new hole, and if you are sensible, back-fill (with weld) the old hole---clean everything up with a powerfile and you end up with top wishbones that will give you just about zero camber (which is what you want for road use). You might still have to play around with camber shims to get to the correct figure. Toe-in is, again, best set at zero---the important detail is to make sure that your track-rods are EXACTLY the same length--if they are of different lengths you will bugger up the "Ackerman effect".

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Cheers for the info. I'll get a new set of A arms ordered. What gearbox oil do you recommend using I have a 126 G/box. TIA

I had a discussion with 'Castrol Classic Oils' regarding the oil to use in the 126 gear-box---the answer was "a good quality 20/50" I use the appropriate Castrol oil---had absolutely no problems.
I have done a bit more measuring on my old top wishbones---you can easily go in 12mm, you just have to a bit more shimming to get the zero front camber angle. From what I understand, the camber blocks raise the inside end of the wishbones, therefore effectively shortening them.

Thanks for the info mate. So 20/50 engine oil for my G box?


Cheers

rizzo360 said:

What gearbox oil do you recommend using I have a 126 G/box. TIA

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Avoid anything with EP additives with an ex-126 gearbox. But you do ideally want a proper gearbox oil as they are available. Engine oils may have the correct viscosity but their other characteristics may not meet the requirements for use in a gearbox. After all, were it not for the synchro-rings Fiat would probably have kept with EP90 because its extreme pressure additives are technically still needed for the differential of the 126 box. Engine oil is a compromised product when used in the gearbox and I would hope that the formulation of ZC90 (or the equivalent) contains formulations which will protect your expensive gears. The engine is relatively simple to rebuild but a good gearbox job can be quite challenging; well worth preserving a good one.

The ZC90 can be hard to find and eBay would be the starting point, but something like this is what I would look for. It's not a multigrade so theoretically it's a touch too thick, but I'm going to give it a try.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-197320-duckhams-90z-classic-gear-oil.aspx

I realise that it sounds illogical to use engine oil in the gearbox, but when I queried this with 'Castrol Classic Oils' the engineer assured me that this was the correct oil. He also advised me that engine oil and gear-box oil viscosity is arrived by different methods. All I can say is that I use Castrol 20/50 oil in my 126 gearbox and have no trouble with it at all.

It doesn't sound illogical to put a good engine oil in a gearbox as there are some famous examples of cars that do that with shared sumps. It's not just about viscosity.
Many of the metal to metal interactions inside a gearbox are very different to those in an engine.
I'm sure most people won't suffer problems if they use 20W50, but I'm not aware of any car with a separate gearbox where engine oil is specified.

rizzo360 said:

What gearbox oil do you recommend using I have a 126 G/box. TIA

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Even better..the exact spec...GL3; https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/1732935306...dk537NcULQUQ6d8QM3PaRPSPgAuDlZYcaAth-EALw_wcB