Technical Jumpy and jerky running

[homeward]

Indeed, I thought the fault code would move to post cat rather than pre cat, although I'm not sure if there is a code for post cat?

Mes doesn't tell me much about the lambdas on 16v version compared to 8v, would you recommend swapping em back round or just replacing the one that is the suspect?

P0420 is pretty typical for a second lambda fault. On mine, though, it was the cat. (I replaced the lambdas, first, though....)

If you get a live voltage reading from both lambdas, the first -- once the car has warmed up (i.e. is on closed loop...) -- will spike like crazy. However, the second should stay pretty flat. If it's spiking in parallel with the first one, your cat may be frelled... -- although it's worth trying a known-good/new lambda in its place, just in case.


Edit
This is what mine looked like before I replaced the cat...



...and this is what it looks like now...! (It's the bottom two lines, on each screen.)

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

P0420 is pretty typical for a second lambda fault. On mine, though, it was the cat. (I replaced the lambdas, first, though....)

If you get a live voltage reading from both lambdas, the first -- once the car has warmed up (i.e. is on closed loop...) -- will spike like crazy. However, the second should stay pretty flat. If it's spiking in parallel with the first one, your cat may be frelled... -- although it's worth trying a known-good/new lambda in its place, just in case.


Edit
This is what mine looked like before I replaced the cat...



...and this is what it looks like now...! (It's the bottom two lines, on each screen.)

Hmm, hoping its not the cat although wouldn't be the end of the world -- hopefully a new lambda will sort out this issue (i will be replacing the pre cat lambda although this is now in the post cat position)

I've monitored it on mes on laptop but all is showing is closed loop to open loop for pre cat and the post cat shows constant open loop and will maybe blip to closed loop when I applied some revs (least 2000),

P.s. is that multiecuscan, app version? Or Bluetooth?

 

[homeward]

P.s. is that multiecuscan, app version? Or Bluetooth?

It's done via Bluetooth, on my iPhone, using the BlueDriver sensor and associated Scan Tool app. Not particularly cheap -- but as long as I have my phone with me (which is always), then I can check what the car's doing. (Doesn't yet do airbags, PAS, etc. -- which is why I still have a netbook, and a full set of leads... -- but is still fairly comprehensive; and the live data feed is very useful. The technical support is also very good!)

Good luck...!

 

[flisko]

It's done via Bluetooth, on my iPhone, using the BlueDriver sensor and associated Scan Tool app. Not particularly cheap -- but as long as I have my phone with me (which is always), then I can check what the car's doing. (Doesn't yet do airbags, PAS, etc. -- which is why I still have a netbook, and a full set of leads... -- but is still fairly comprehensive; and the live data feed is very useful. The technical support is also very good!)

Good luck...!

99 squid while you can get everything same in different program for free? have you lost your mind blud

 

[homeward]

99 squid while you can get everything same in different program for free? have you lost your mind blud

It's 99 dollars -- and it was a present; and a good one, too....

And, to be honest, I'm not well chuffed with you questioning either my sanity or purchasing decisions.... No-one goes around on the Forum saying that you shouldn't have spent so many hundred or thousand on a particular car. It's personal choice; personal freedom; and I had thought this section of the Forum was free from such judgmental nonsense.... :nono:

By the way: the cables for MES, of course, aren't free; and the convenience of being able to access all this information on the move without having a laptop on your passenger's lap is priceless.

I tried a couple of the cheap Bluetooth dongles -- which is probably what prompted this as a gift... -- and both got sent back.

 

[flisko]

it is free of judgemental nonsense i just stated my honest opinion

 

[homeward]

have you lost your mind blud

it is free of judgemental nonsense i just stated my honest opinion

It was a question, not a statement; and it implied a mental deficit. If you knew anything about me, you'd understand why I would be sensitive about such things.

 

[flisko]

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Local scrap yard wanted 25 for used lambda, pfft totally typical for my scrap yard..useless!

Anyway, so ordered a new one from eurocarcare with Fiat Forum discount :thumbup:

Now..which lambda should I replace with this new one....

 

[homeward]

Now..which lambda should I replace with this new one....

Toss a coin...!

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Toss a coin...!

And then toss that chosen sensor into the bin (hoping it isn't the other one that is buggered...!)

Or whichever comes off with the least spanner turns

But seriously I think I know which one it should be

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Riiiigth...New lambda sensor arrived next day thanks to eurocarare (excellent service and quality part btw) :thumbup:

New lambda has been installed for a couple days now, and at first the car seemed a lot smoother (placebo effect maybe..)

Also the lambda error code has been cleared and not come back (so the old lambda clearly was a problem),

But the car is still running lumpy at low speeds especially in traffic when on off the throttle!

I'm a bit stumped now, any suggestions?

 

[fingers99]

Compression test (as it doesn't show an eml). If that shows nothing, worth looking at cam timing and plug leads.

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Compression test (as it doesn't show an eml). If that shows nothing, worth looking at cam timing and plug leads.

Ok compression test seems simple enough to do?

Even thought ht leads are only 3 months old?

Thanks

 

[fingers99]

Ok compression test seems simple enough to do?

Even thought ht leads are only 3 months old?

Thanks

Compression test is easy. Get the engine nice and hot. Disconnect the crank sensor (easy peasy on a Mk2), remove all the plugs. Crank the engine, with the throttle fully open (help to have a helper!). Write down the pressures, pour 5cc max engine oil in each cylinder in turn (syringe, etc), repeat.

Even white box leads should be OK after 2 months. So forget that.

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Compression test is easy. Get the engine nice and hot. Disconnect the crank sensor (easy peasy on a Mk2), remove all the plugs. Crank the engine, with the throttle fully open (help to have a helper!). Write down the pressures, pour 5cc max engine oil in each cylinder in turn (syringe, etc), repeat.

Even white box leads should be OK after 2 months. So forget that.

The leads I replaced were knackered, these seem fine

Ok I will order a compression tester, any specifics/adapters needed for 16v?

Otherwise cam timing after compression test?

 

[fingers99]

Never done one on a 16v. I'd just check that it has an adaptor to suit your plugs, with enough depth for the plug recesses.

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

Never done one on a 16v. I'd just check that it has an adaptor to suit your plugs, with enough depth for the plug recesses.

Ok cheers!

 

[oldhammer]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-AU...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ed2a7f1a2

 

[KRaikkonenNo1]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-AU...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ed2a7f1a2

Thanks!! :thumbup:

Just been looking at them, but wasn't sure if would fit the 16v..so this one will fit mine then?