(Still need to check map (didn't realise had to remove airbox),
^ i dont, you can get to them easy enuf with airbox on,
Technical Jumpy and jerky running
- Thread starter KRaikkonenNo1
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Technical Jumpy and jerky running
(Still need to check map (didn't realise had to remove airbox),
^ i dont, you can get to them easy enuf with airbox on,
OP
OP
From my quick look, seemed like 2 torx screws right under top left corner of airbox?
I couldn't get at it anyway, will give it another go - airbox ain't no hassle anyway
idont like taking the airbox off, its a faff,
im going to replace the bolts -soon/ish with something that is quick release,
wing nuts or sumat, dunno yet,
im going to replace the bolts -soon/ish with something that is quick release,
wing nuts or sumat, dunno yet,
OP
OP
True, don't mind for a big job but just to unplug a sensor is a bit faff..3 tedious screws, 2 jubilee clips screws everytime
Anyway, pondering about an engine mount overhaul...
True, don't mind for a big job but just to unplug a sensor is a bit faff..3 tedious screws, 2 jubilee clips screws everytime
Glad it's not just me, then....
with mine ive had to put my own bolts in and washers,
the original ones was a waste of space,
so with having them bolted down properly it makes them harder to remove,
the original ones was a waste of space,
so with having them bolted down properly it makes them harder to remove,
OP
OP
This. The constant fear of snapping the head as they are so tight!
im planning on using something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-F...wnmower_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35dae2553c
an old lawnmower is always easy to find,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-F...wnmower_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35dae2553c
an old lawnmower is always easy to find,
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OP
OP
im planning on using something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-F...wnmower_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35dae2553c
an old lawnmower is always easy to find,
Fair enough, seems a good idea :thumbup:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
OP
OP
Was starting to lean towards replacing the 2 mounts within the engine bay...but I'm starting to think its not a mechanical issue as such, more of a sensor or reading issue of the like -- reason I say is, after experimenting yesterday, I can easily recreate the jerking in 1st at low speed, all I got to do is come off the throttle at about 5mph and a short delay (about just over a second later) the car will jerk very violently forward and then maybe back, (extremely annoying seeing the unsuspecting passenger go flying forward as if we have been hit from behind). The affect is similar when I pickup the throttle but I don't think as bad, just the total opposite of smooth.
Now my gut instinct tells me that after I've released the throttle that some kind of sensor isnt giving the right reading and its jerking under incorrect circumstances (whether it be air ratios, fuel etc, I'm not sure)?
If it were to be the mounts I would have thought that the jerking would be immediate and happens consistently and also throughout the gear and speed ranges,
Could anyone shed any further light on this?
Now my gut instinct tells me that after I've released the throttle that some kind of sensor isnt giving the right reading and its jerking under incorrect circumstances (whether it be air ratios, fuel etc, I'm not sure)?
If it were to be the mounts I would have thought that the jerking would be immediate and happens consistently and also throughout the gear and speed ranges,
Could anyone shed any further light on this?
You might be best just to,have a play with M.E.S and see whats going on,
ive simalar issues;with 16valvers.. before but that turned out to be Timing out,
as ive mentioned before, Mount is worn out on mine,but car still runs smooth
no lumpy'ness,
its the lower mount,(dogbone) that acts as the 'roll restricter' for the engine,
so icarnt seeing it being a mount issue,as iknow youve swapped the D/B out,.
ive simalar issues;with 16valvers.. before but that turned out to be Timing out,
as ive mentioned before, Mount is worn out on mine,but car still runs smooth
no lumpy'ness,
its the lower mount,(dogbone) that acts as the 'roll restricter' for the engine,
so icarnt seeing it being a mount issue,as iknow youve swapped the D/B out,.
OP
OP
Have had a look on mes, but am not sure of what I'm looking for, not sure at all what the values, etc should be
Yes I agree with you, I'm leaning towards it not being the mounts (although they look worn),
Have just been standing staring at the engine for about 15mins trying to think what it could be, I'm lost what to look for now...
OP
OP
Have had a look on mes, but am not sure of what I'm looking for, not sure at all what the values, etc should be
Yes I agree with you, I'm leaning towards it not being the mounts (although they look worn),
Have just been standing staring at the engine for about 15mins trying to think what it could be, I'm lost what to look for now...
Also forgot to mention, does this look normal for the MAP sensor and the hole where the MAP goes? Oil on the sensor, and in hole.
Thanks
Attachments
The only thing that realy stand's out here,
if you re-trace your step's (lamba sensor's)
You had one 'Moody one,that brought up the 'EML' Yes?
but when you swapped them round, the EML cleared,
but that'd only sugest to me that youve just moved a fault,
if you re-trace your step's (lamba sensor's)
You had one 'Moody one,that brought up the 'EML' Yes?
but when you swapped them round, the EML cleared,
but that'd only sugest to me that youve just moved a fault,
Also forgot to mention, does this look normal for the MAP sensor and the hole where the MAP goes? Oil on the sensor, and in hole.
Thanks
a little mist of oil is normal,
OP
OP
Indeed, I thought the fault code would move to post cat rather than pre cat, although I'm not sure if there is a code for post cat?
Mes doesn't tell me much about the lambdas on 16v version compared to 8v, would you recommend swapping em back round or just replacing the one that is the suspect?
Thanks
TBH, id just find one in a scrapyard or get one' off someone breaking one,
if then it dosent turn out to be the 'Lambda sensor. youve not lost much,
& then at least youve gained another spare part for a 'rainy day,
but as this 'Lambda sensor is or has been flagged up in the past,id be looking at that as suspect,
these things take alot of heat, and it couid be as old as the car,
it couid be feeding the ecu lies, making it overfuel or underfuel,
if then it dosent turn out to be the 'Lambda sensor. youve not lost much,
& then at least youve gained another spare part for a 'rainy day,
but as this 'Lambda sensor is or has been flagged up in the past,id be looking at that as suspect,
these things take alot of heat, and it couid be as old as the car,
it couid be feeding the ecu lies, making it overfuel or underfuel,
OP
OP
Will get a quote off scrap yard or pick up one off eBay, hopefully a working one!
Tbh both lambdas look 10+ years old!
Cheers, will get back with results
^
(Loops
The computer uses the oxygen sensor's input to regulate the fuel mixture, which is referred to as the fuel "feedback control loop." The computer takes its cues from the O2 sensor and responds by changing the fuel mixture. This produces a corresponding change in the O2 sensor reading. This is referred to as "closed loop" operation because the computer is using the O2 sensor's input to regulate the fuel mixture. The result is a constant flip-flop back and forth from rich to lean which allows the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency while keeping the average overall fuel mixture in proper balance to minimize emissions. It's a complicated setup but it works.)
(Loops
The computer uses the oxygen sensor's input to regulate the fuel mixture, which is referred to as the fuel "feedback control loop." The computer takes its cues from the O2 sensor and responds by changing the fuel mixture. This produces a corresponding change in the O2 sensor reading. This is referred to as "closed loop" operation because the computer is using the O2 sensor's input to regulate the fuel mixture. The result is a constant flip-flop back and forth from rich to lean which allows the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency while keeping the average overall fuel mixture in proper balance to minimize emissions. It's a complicated setup but it works.)
