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Panda (Classic) Genaro the 1989 panda 4x4

Introduction

So after buying my panda as a non runner and on the way home the tow rope snapping , Genaro is now home!

With some new fuel and encouragement he is now running perfectly , getting up to temperature, the fan working, everything working as it should, even after not running for a year!

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Hasn't been serviced since 2007 ( besides the cambelt being done in 2013) so a service is the first thing to do,
Gears are a bit crunchy... But looking underneath where the passenger driveshaft joins the gear box , it's weeping a little bit.... So maybe the oil is a bit low in the gear box and needs topping up along with a new gasket.... The exact same thing happened with my punto ( with the same fire engine!)

Bit of sanding and white paint here and there and it'll be ready to go back on the road!

If anyone knows of anyone selling bull bars or the original roof bars ; get it contact because I really want some!
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Cheers for that , I've got some of that stuff , so that should be a straight forward one!

On another note people , I checked the paint code today and it's 220. With the paint , it seems if i rub the wait work with something like a sponge or a rag they become like a milky white .. Normal?

No not normal. Sounds like you need to give it a good wash, then polish with something like Autoglym paint renovator, either that or someone's re-sprayed it with emulsion!
 
No not normal. Sounds like you need to give it a good wash, then polish with something like Autoglym paint renovator, either that or someone's re-sprayed it with emulsion!

its a bit like the whole cars a piece of chalk! and it feels like theres not a single section of it with laquer !, but yeah it may just be lack of love, ill give it a good polish with some auto glym once ive sorted the other bits and pieces and itll probably be fine :)


Todays Update: Just ordering a new set of locks and keys all round as you put the key in the passenger and boot locks and they don't turn and after stripping all the mechs down its definatley the locks!




As for the paint code being 220, according to the interent that's the newer version of Bianco Corfu, which is the same colour @kolza thought it was, but with a different code. according to the interenet 220 and 224 are both bianco corfu, but 224 is the newer version? .. just to be confusing
 
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sadly theres no such thing unless you can find some one who is able to repair a set for you.

i have a set of doors that i want to get repaired but sadly i dont have the cash for it.

my advice is find Seat Marbella doors.. they never seem to rust and fit just fine :D

you could also look into getting a set shipped over from italy, but even rust free ones over there are becoming rare. besides, 2 or 3 years in the UK and they will so be like the rest of the ones :/

when you do get some good doors, make sure you go to town on rust proofing them..

i went so far as to make a deepish trough and sit the doors in used engine oil for a few days. then after a while of the doors being on the car cavity waxed them.

sounds extreme.. but when it comes to rust.. is there really an extreme in preventing it? :/
 
Works been commencing all week , a lot of body tidying up has happend , new locks have been fitted and underneath has been sealed to prevent rot and rear diff is sorted

Stupid question but all my spark plug tools is to wide to fit in to remove the old plugs... Anyone else have this issue?

What's people's thoughts , shall i remove all the metal aluminium panels that where pop riveted on the sides and sills back in 2002 or not bother?
Also these are the picture of the leaky driveshaft... Time to replace the drive shaft seal and cone? ;)
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i would replace the boot and the bearing oil seal.

it can be tricky and its a full drive shaft out job to replace the bearing oil seal as it has to be drifted off the drive shaft with a perfect fitting metal tube.
if you are very cute you can use a very blunt chisel to drift it on and "walk" it down the shaft but its really hard to do. the chance of damage to the new oil seal is high.

remember that the CV boots hold in ALL of the gearbox oil. when you fit the new one, not only zip tie it on but also use some instant gasket around the lip each end just so it makes a perfect seal.. and also make sure theres no oil around where you are sealing.
 
i would replace the boot and the bearing oil seal.

it can be tricky and its a full drive shaft out job to replace the bearing oil seal as it has to be drifted off the drive shaft with a perfect fitting metal tube.
if you are very cute you can use a very blunt chisel to drift it on and "walk" it down the shaft but its really hard to do. the chance of damage to the new oil seal is high.

remember that the CV boots hold in ALL of the gearbox oil. when you fit the new one, not only zip tie it on but also use some instant gasket around the lip each end just so it makes a perfect seal.. and also make sure theres no oil around where you are sealing.


Thanks I'm sure I won't be too bad to sort out

Hopefully everything will be done and back on the road by mid/end of March? Optimistic? We shall wait and see ;)
 
euro car parts.. they will have them in stock too. will cost about £24 though but its not too bad as you get a nice quality cv boot and a good bearing.



give them a call as it does not show up online.. :rolleyes:


Spoke to eurocarparts and they told me it's now £89 excluding vat and they are going to stop selling them soon and that's the best price they can doo ???
Everywhere else doesn't do them
 
Thanks no idea how I didn't seee that, so I'm right in thinking the kit also includes the oil seal?

Yes it does.

This Inner Drive Shaft Boot fits into a three bolt metal flange and has a clip to hold the other end onto the drive shaft
It comes with an inner bearing/oil thrower which fits onto the shaft

This Kit comes with a new Rubber Boot, Bearing & Clip (No 3,14 &15 in the diagram)
 
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