Introduction
Fiat Panda 169 2007 4x4 1,2L Petrol/LPG
235000km
235000km
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Nice colour
Ty.
Does anyone else have petrol/lpg version? I have done multiple tests, but since the outside temperatures varies a lot, and my driving conditions also varies a lot, I got very different fuel consumptions.
For example, last 151,9km it used 5L of petrol and 15,38L of LPG. It start and goes on petrol until coolant temperature reaches some level (I am not sure which temperature exactly, but maybe around 30degrees C) and then it switches to lpg.
Week before, I have done around 300km and petrol consumption was around 7L and around 31L of lpg. Week before, all numbers where lower, around 4L per 280km and 27L of lpg.
So to say, around 8,6 to 10,2L of lpg per 100km and maybe 1-3L of petrol. But my driving is mostly in city, short relations and some hill driving when hunting, mostly in 2nd and sometimes in 1st gear. So pretty heavy load.
Does anyone else have petrol/lpg version? I have done multiple tests, but since the outside temperatures varies a lot, and my driving conditions also varies a lot, I got very different fuel consumptions.
For example, last 151,9km it used 5L of petrol and 15,38L of LPG. It start and goes on petrol until coolant temperature reaches some level (I am not sure which temperature exactly, but maybe around 30degrees C) and then it switches to lpg.
Week before, I have done around 300km and petrol consumption was around 7L and around 31L of lpg. Week before, all numbers where lower, around 4L per 280km and 27L of lpg.
So to say, around 8,6 to 10,2L of lpg per 100km and maybe 1-3L of petrol. But my driving is mostly in city, short relations and some hill driving when hunting, mostly in 2nd and sometimes in 1st gear. So pretty heavy load.
And, one more question. Is Panda 4wd or AWD?! As I understood, it is closer to AWD, since some of power goes to rear wheels, while driving in normal conditions.
Yesterday I picked up my car from mechanic. He replaced clutch and two mounts of rear differential. But, it center silent block on rear diff also needs replacing. We realized that yesterday.
So far, since I bought the car, I replaced oil, all filters (it doesn't have fuel filter), belt, water pump, and now clutch and diff mounts. Now the car drives nicely. The rattle sound from the clutch is gone, and clutch is lighter, rear diff kicks much less (it was noticeable when there is liner sudden movement of the car, i.e. when I shift faster or when I suddenly put off my foot from gas pedal so rear diff moves and I hear and feel the "kick").
All in all, still waiting for winter.
So far, since I bought the car, I replaced oil, all filters (it doesn't have fuel filter), belt, water pump, and now clutch and diff mounts. Now the car drives nicely. The rattle sound from the clutch is gone, and clutch is lighter, rear diff kicks much less (it was noticeable when there is liner sudden movement of the car, i.e. when I shift faster or when I suddenly put off my foot from gas pedal so rear diff moves and I hear and feel the "kick").
All in all, still waiting for winter.
At 2007 it should still be a viscous coupling
It's permanent four wheel drive (AWD) that completely automated,
Normal diving about 99% goes to the front, as the front wheels slip the viscous coupling transmits an increasing percentage of the available torque torque to the rear to a maximum of about 850 Nm
The engine drag torque control system (MSR) uses the ABS system to prevent the rear end locking up under sudden deceleration, downhill or Cornering.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
You will use more litres of LPG than petrol as there is less energy in a litre of gas. I understand 10-15% is normal. In very cold weather the difference may be more but the difference you are reporting sounds excessive. I would suggest a careful system check would be a good idea in case its leaking somewhere or just wasting LPG somehow,
After replacing the clutch set and gear oil, I now noticed that, after some driving, it is a bit harder to put it into reverse and from reverse to neutral. While cold, it is easy to put into reverse and from reverse to neutral. All forward gears are ok, same when cold and after some driving.
What could it be?!
It started few days ago, not immediately after the changes. It started after one longer drive, and last part of the drive was maybe 15km of very steep uphill, while full throttle in third and fourth gear. When I got on the hill, I slowed down and after few minutes I needed to park the car in reverse. I noticed it was a bit harder to put it into reverse and pretty hard to put out of reverse. When cooled down, it was back to normal. Now, every day, when I drive for a few minutes and try to reverse, it is harder then when the car was cold.
Nothing makes sense...
What could it be?!
It started few days ago, not immediately after the changes. It started after one longer drive, and last part of the drive was maybe 15km of very steep uphill, while full throttle in third and fourth gear. When I got on the hill, I slowed down and after few minutes I needed to park the car in reverse. I noticed it was a bit harder to put it into reverse and pretty hard to put out of reverse. When cooled down, it was back to normal. Now, every day, when I drive for a few minutes and try to reverse, it is harder then when the car was cold.
Nothing makes sense...
Almost certainly the selector cables
Try some very thin oil down the cables on top of the gearbox and see if it improves
I assume it's the same with the engine off, eliminating any possibility of clutch drag
If so you can confirm it's the cable by moving the gearbox into reverse and pulling it out by directly moving the lever on the back of the gearbox
I can just about jam my arm down without removing anything but it is tight
If it comes out of gear easy here but not at the stick the promlem is the selector cable
Try some very thin oil down the cables on top of the gearbox and see if it improves
I assume it's the same with the engine off, eliminating any possibility of clutch drag
If so you can confirm it's the cable by moving the gearbox into reverse and pulling it out by directly moving the lever on the back of the gearbox
I can just about jam my arm down without removing anything but it is tight
If it comes out of gear easy here but not at the stick the promlem is the selector cable
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