Styling Lowering Springs Problem

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Styling Lowering Springs Problem

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Dec 10, 2010
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Hi Guys, I have the same problem as the guy on this thread

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/266761-lowered-stilo-40mm-but-front-hasnt-dropped.html

But I understand some lowering springs come universal (1.2 to 1.8) so depending on what engine size you have the lower it will drop.

I have the 1.8, Surely much heavier than the other versions. But My car hasn't drop an inch in fact it has gone HIGHER! :bang:

Now my question is. Other than going for Coilovers what can I do next? And Why didn't my car drop? The Rear ones are fine, dropped exactly how I wanted.
 
i bet there for the 2.5 and jtd, i reckon you have the wrong ones, maybe supplied wrong.... what springs are they? i am going to use pi for mine (jtd) or may get coilovers not sure yet

Well on their website it says it just for the petrol engine (Unless they dispatched the wrong ones). They are FK-Automotive Lowering springs High Tec.

I have also fitted new Shocks (Rear and Front).

Coilovers are way out of my budget and they are probably more than what the car is worth :p:ROFLMAO:
 
how long have they been on?
as others have said they do appear to be higher if they've just been done but settle lower, and old springs may have been old and compressed a bit.
I remember a mates son having a broken spring in his 2.4 abarth after the garage had fitted 2 different sets of springs and given up due to height differences (looking too high, especially as just fronts changed so back was lower on old springs)I gave him my old jtdm springs(had less than 20,000 miles on them) I kept after fitting my eibachs and they fitted and he was happy with height(possibly old used springs being closer to height he was used to)
do you know for sure what springs were in before?
it can be a tricky thing.
 
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I have changed the stock Springs about 2 months ago , so they're definitely not worn. I know some of you said it will drop after a few days but I doubt it will drop that much, the car is way to high. I've only just fitted the kit this morning. Done about 5 miles, It didn't look like it will drop any further down.
 



The size difference of the springs, surely it should have lowered it.

Question: The top bolt of the shocks, how low does it have to go. When I was bolting it , it could go much lower, but I stopped at about where the stock one would be. Could this affect the lowering height?
 
sitting springs next to each other like that is not going to compare where car will sit, the sports spring is shorter yes but will be significantly stiffer so wont compress as much as standard spring with car weight on it.
regarding fitting no idea left it to garage
also what year is your stilo?
I found this when searching, some sort of suspension design change around 2004
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/65571-apex-springs.html
 
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sitting springs next to each other like that is not going to compare where car will sit, the sports spring is shorter yes but will be significantly stiffer so wont compress as much as standard spring with car weight on it.
Regarding fitting no idea left it to garage
also what year is your stilo?
I found this when searching, some sort of suspension design change around 2004
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/65571-apex-springs.html

2002
 
Question: The top bolt of the shocks, how low does it have to go. When I was bolting it , it could go much lower, but I stopped at about where the stock one would be. Could this affect the lowering height?

It's irrelevant where the nut was on the old shock absorbers. The length of the thread on the old and new ones could be different.

The first nut to go on the shock absorber piston rod (flanged nut) should be tightened so that the metal bush in the upper part of the top mounting is tight against the step on the shock absorber piston rod. Torque setting for the nut is 6 daNm but you will need a Crow's Foot adaptor to be able to do it with a normal torque wrench.

If you haven't fully tightened the first nut, then doing so will compress the spring more. thus lowering the ride height.

Correct way to do it, is to assemble the shock absorber, spring and 3 parts of the top mounting with the flanged nut tightened to torque. Then fit the assembly to the car and lower the car so it's resting on the wheels. The 2 rubber parts of the top mounting and the shock absorber must be lined up as in the diagram below.

Once fitted to the car, the top nut (nylock nut) should be tightened to torque (4daNm). A 4mm rod (screwdriver?) should be able to freely pass through both parts of the top mounting and the hole in the suspension turret when both wheels are straigh ahead, as in the picture below.
.
 

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Correct way to do it, is to assemble the shock absorber, spring and 3 parts of the top mounting with the flanged nut tightened to torque.

Which one? The bolt on top of the 2 rubber bush or the bolt that goes on top of that bolt(The one you can see on the bonnet side)?
 
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When i changed my slightly tired shocks and springs over for the same OEM but new parts my car miraculously sat much higher and I stopped bottoming out all the time.
This is because there was more tension in the springs and resistance on the shocks.
 
6 daNm = 60Nm = 44.25 lb/ft. All standard half inch drive torque wrenches should cover that.

Otherwise you'll have to guess it.
.

Thanks for the info I must have misread it. With the crows foot adaptor wouldn't you need to re work out the torque setting as your extending the centerline? Therefore you would actually be putting less torque into it?
 
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