Hi All!

I'm new to this site so still trying to get used to it. (bare with me)
My Fiat punto 1.2 8v X reg will not start. (Does turn over but just not starting)
I've had it for about two years.
A few months ago occasionally I kept having a clicking sound coming from my steering wheel column. The car still drove fine with absolutely no issues. It wasn't all the time either. (would come and go)

Then a while ago (couple months back) I went out to start my car but it wouldn't start & petrol light was flashing saying no fuel in the car which was incorrect as at least half a tank full.
Anyway the next day car started and it was fine.
It was fine a good while after that then a few weeks later the same problem where it wouldn't start say the Monday but would be fine on starting a little while later or on the Tuesday.

Up until a short time ago the non- starting issue became a lot more frequent. Like days in a row it wouldn't start at all and also there were now 3 red warning lights on the dashboard that wouldn't go out (not there before. Red power steering light, red low engine pressure oil light & red fuel injection system failure light) aswell as the petrol gauge reading empty & the petrol light flashing. When it got to this point the car just eventually wouldn't start at all.
I had my uncle check for bad connections, blown fuses...etc still no luck in starting the car or finding out what the problem was.

Anyway all the constant trying of starting the car eventually made the battery go flat.
My unc then disconnected the battery charged it for a day then put it back the next day and the car started.
Went & started it the next day it started. Then the day after not starting at all and same 3 red warning lights & petrol light flashing.

This is when I called a mobile mechanic out (sunday gone) he couldn't start the car either. He checked for electrical faults none came up he also changed the crank sensor & still nothing. I believe he did check fuel relay/ pump too but nothing. Which he found strange as the petrol constantly flashes & gauge registers the tank as empty.
When I explained about the clicking in my steering column a few months back he believes that my key may be faulty & I need a new one to be reprogrammed to start the car. Thing is that procedure isn't cheap & I'm worried that's not the problem. I don't have a key code either to even test his theory as he isn't even 100% sure himself.
I'm hoping someone can help or has had similar issues. I'm at the end of my tether with this. Frustratingly I saw somebody on another forum with the EXACT/IDENTICAL same symptoms as me but it was a 2012 post, so I don't think I'll be able to make contact with them. So frustrating
I'm so sorry for the book I've just written but I'd rather explain the full story, so anyone helping can get a clear idea of what's been happening.

Thanks.

On some older Fiats they could develop a fault in the indicator or headlight stalk, this would give a clicking noise as it switched or sparked incorrectly.

If the car won't start it could be an immobiliser issue, which would be connected to the key or the transponder unit. But you should see the key symbol lit on the dash display.

The intermittent electrical problems could be due to a bad earth or wiring damage connected with the dash unit.

Your best bet is a decent auto-electrician, they will be able to diagnose and reset the car's ECU for stored error codes and trace any wiring faults.

Nicabockaglory said:

Hi All!

I'm new to this site so still trying to get used to it. (bare with me)
My Fiat punto 1.2 8v X reg will not start. (Does turn over but just not starting)

Anyway all the constant trying of starting the car eventually made the battery go flat.
My unc then disconnected the battery charged it for a day then put it back the next day and the car started.
Went & started it the next day it started. Then the day after not starting at all and same 3 red warning lights & petrol light flashing. So frustrating
I'm so sorry for the book I've just written but I'd rather explain the full story, so anyone helping can get a clear idea of what's been happening.

Thanks.

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Hi, and welcome,
it's well worth trying a good battery from another working car,
modern electronics need a good stable power supply,

key's / immob CAN be a pain.., but not ridiculous,
where are you / the car based..??,

Charlie - Oxford

bluejohn125 said:

On some older Fiats they could develop a fault in the indicator or headlight stalk, this would give a clicking noise as it switched or sparked incorrectly.

If the car won't start it could be an immobiliser issue, which would be connected to the key or the transponder unit. But you should see the key symbol lit on the dash display.

The intermittent electrical problems could be due to a bad earth or wiring damage connected with the dash unit.

Your best bet is a decent auto-electrician, they will be able to diagnose and reset the car's ECU for stored error codes and trace any wiring faults.

Click to expand...

Hi There,

Thank you yes I thought today I should've went for an auto electrician instead of wasting money with mobile mechanic who's expertise wasn't really this area.

The key light does not stay on which makes me skeptical as to wether it is that particular issue

It's funny you mention the indicator/ headlight stalk actually I had an MOT done not long ago and it nearly failed due one of my indicators not working properly.
The guy said it was just a loose earth & said he'd just give it a tweak then it was fine.
I think auto electrician it is as I'm running out of ideas here

varesecrazy said:

Hi, and welcome,
it's well worth trying a good battery from another working car,
modern electronics need a good stable power supply,

key's / immob CAN be a pain.., but not ridiculous,
where are you / the car based..??,

Charlie - Oxford

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Hiya Charlie

Thank you
I'll mention that to my unc & get him to give it a go.
I'm based in the west london area near ealing.

Do you know by any chance if the two blue keys you get with the car both have chips in them?
I'm thinking it must just be the one as what are the odds of both chips in both keys not working/ damaged at the exact same time...or is that sod's law working in my favour again lol I laugh but I really want to cry...bloody car is driving me bonkers lol

Hi,iv'e just replied to something similar on another thread.Iv'e just repaired a w reg punto which wouldn't start and the fuel gauge stopped working and the fuel light was flashing.I replaced the ecu with a plug and play self coding one purchased for £29 off ebay,it took 2 mins to fit and the car started straight away.

Nicabockaglory said:

Do you know by any chance if the two blue keys you get with the car both have chips in them?
I'm thinking it must just be the one as what are the odds of both chips in both keys not working/ damaged at the exact same time

Click to expand...

BOTH keys SHOULD work..
BUT if the code light is coming on briefly- then going off, AND the fuel pump under rear seat - runs for a few seconds.. then you've got another different problem..,
as I said.. use another good battery before sending more money

222Mark said:

Hi,iv'e just replied to something similar on another thread.Iv'e just repaired a w reg punto which wouldn't start and the fuel gauge stopped working and the fuel light was flashing.I replaced the ecu with a plug and play self coding one purchased for £29 off ebay,it took 2 mins to fit and the car started straight away.

Click to expand...

Hi there,

Thank you for your response & the info.
I believe this will come in handy & £29 is a low price to pay if it will sort the issue & still not bad if by any chance it doesn't so thanks very much again.

varesecrazy said:

BOTH keys SHOULD work..
BUT if the code light is coming on briefly- then going off, AND the fuel pump under rear seat - runs for a few seconds.. then you've got another different problem..,
as I said.. use another good battery before sending more money

Click to expand...

Thanks Charlie, I will do

222Mark said:

Hi,iv'e just replied to something similar on another thread.Iv'e just repaired a w reg punto which wouldn't start and the fuel gauge stopped working and the fuel light was flashing.I replaced the ecu with a plug and play self coding one purchased for £29 off ebay,it took 2 mins to fit and the car started straight away.

Click to expand...

Hi Mark,

So someone has looked at my punto again today and it is supposed to be the ECU at fault.
You mentioned that you got one off eBay which I intend to do also.
Couple of quick questions though.
Did u replace spark plugs & coils when u fitted the new ECU? its just on the listing of the ECU I'm buying it states that I also need to replace those two things.
I'm wandering if you did or did u just simply by the new ECU by itself & fit it without new spark plugs & coils?
Second question since the ECU is self coding does that mean my car keys will still work fine with my car ? or am I going to have to get them reprogrammed?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

hi again,they do recommend replacing the plugs,leads and coil packs however i didn't with this one and it was ok......your existing keys will be just fine with self coding ecu.......but one other thing i forgot to mention before you purchase anything is check the module that is behind the fusebox in the drivers footwell....its a black box with fuses and relays on it....unplug it and then plug it back in again...or remove it and check for signs of damp and even dry it out inside your house for a couple of days....we had one some time ago with the same fault and it was the module that had damp in it.

Good luck and i hope this helps.

222Mark said:

hi again,they do recommend replacing the plugs,leads and coil packs however i didn't with this one and it was ok......your existing keys will be just fine with self coding ecu.......but one other thing i forgot to mention before you purchase anything is check the module that is behind the fusebox in the drivers footwell....its a black box with fuses and relays on it....unplug it and then plug it back in again...or remove it and check for signs of damp and even dry it out inside your house for a couple of days....we had one some time ago with the same fault and it was the module that had damp in it.

Good luck and i hope this helps.

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Brilliant! Thanks very much Mark very helpful indeed!
One last quick question is there any way to find out my ECU part number without me taking it out to look?
My unc is not around at this min & from what I understand its under the air filter on the back of the throttle body...this sounds a little bit complicated for me to get to lol (although it may not be?)
I can wait for him to come & do it but he works & I want to get the ball rolling as soon as I possibly can (i think I'm starting to have driving withdrawal symptoms lol) So I can see exactly what ECU & how much it will cost me ..etc

Nicabockaglory said:

Brilliant! Thanks very much Mark very helpful indeed!
One last quick question is there any way to find out my ECU part number without me taking it out to look?
My unc is not around at this min & from what I understand its under the air filter on the back of the throttle body...this sounds a little bit complicated for me to get to lol (although it may not be?)
I can wait for him to come & do it but he works & I want to get the ball rolling as soon as I possibly can (i think I'm starting to have driving withdrawal symptoms lol) So I can see exactly what ECU & how much it will cost me ..etc

Click to expand...

No,but it is easy to remove the ecu,undo the 2 10mm bolts that hold the air filter down,undo the 2 plugs into the ecu,be careful not to break the plastic clips on them,then undo the 2 allen key bolts which hold the ecu in place,

222Mark said:

No,but it is easy to remove the ecu,undo the 2 10mm bolts that hold the air filter down,undo the 2 plugs into the ecu,be careful not to break the plastic clips on them,then undo the 2 allen key bolts which hold the ecu in place,

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You're a star! Thank you so much for your time & help much appreciated

I can't help thinking that your problem is a combination of faulty ECU and battery. If there is also a short in the wiring harnes in the region of the stearing column this might be causing a battery drain. Although it is adviseable to fit new coil packs and sparking plugs (and ignition leads too) using the existing ones should not prevent the car starting with a 'new' ECU and good battery. Others have said that the immobilizer appears to be working correctly and I agree. Each key contains a small cylindrical component about one centemeter long and two millimeters thick. This is burried within the key body and is unlikely to have been damaged accidentally.
I understand your worry about cost all too well, but having an auto electrican diagnose this may be the cheapest reliable fix on the long run. They should have access to using Fiat software diagnotics (there is a connection in the fuse area to the cars electronics). If you go in that direction ask specifically if they have this resource. Good luck and keep us posted!

Southsea said:

I can't help thinking that your problem is a combination of faulty ECU and battery. If there is also a short in the wiring harnes in the region of the stearing column this might be causing a battery drain. Although it is adviseable to fit new coil packs and sparking plugs (and ignition leads too) using the existing ones should not prevent the car starting with a 'new' ECU and good battery. Others have said that the immobilizer appears to be working correctly and I agree. Each key contains a small cylindrical component about one centemeter long and two millimeters thick. This is burried within the key body and is unlikely to have been damaged accidentally.
I understand your worry about cost all too well, but having an auto electrican diagnose this may be the cheapest reliable fix on the long run. They should have access to using Fiat software diagnotics (there is a connection in the fuse area to the cars electronics). If you go in that direction ask specifically if they have this resource. Good luck and keep us posted!

Click to expand...

Hi There,

Thank you for the info. Although at this point I.am really hoping that it is just the ECU. I will however still keep in mind what you've said.
Will defo keep you guys posted
Thanks again

So it's not the ECU or the battery guys!
I think I'm on the brink of tears I'm so frustrated.
Anyway update is now my power steering isn't working my steering wheel is heavy and won't budge one bit and city mode light is now constantly on.
Could it be my power steering pump has gone and just needs changing maybe?
I guess this could explain the clicking sound coming from the steering wheel colounn that I'd mentioned before.
Again any advice & help would be greatly appreciated

your pas motor or ecu or sensor died or you emptied your battery

You say it's not the battery. How do you know that?

Also, try not to throw parts at it without diagnosis, if possible. You're likely to get even more frustrated.

atom0007 said:

You say it's not the battery. How do you know that?

Also, try not to throw parts at it without diagnosis, if possible. You're likely to get even more frustrated.

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Because the battery has been tested on more than one occasion. & as suggested from Charlie earlier on in this post another good working battery was put in my car to test if that was the problem. It wasn't.

tbh I don't believe I can be anymore frustrated than I am now.
The first mechanic I had look at it said he wasn't getting any fault codes. I don't if maybe he just didn't know what he was doing/ didn't have the right equipment or what..
I will speak to someone else tomorrow again about it but I am not happy to pay someone to look at the car again only for them not to find the problem & leave with my money
So I definitely need to make this crystal clear! Thinking back on it the first mobile mechanic didn't even ask me car registration & stuff before he came which now thinking back on it wouldn't he need to make sure he had the*right equipment to diagnose any fault codes?
I dont know, this particular situation is a learning process for me