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Richard Davies
Guest
Anyone got any advice on the best route for power cables from the battery to the boot on a '99 Bravo HGT? Many Thanks for the help.
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Wiring for boot mounted amp
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Anonymous
Guest
Follow the path of the cd
Follow the same route as the cd changer cable (assuming
you have one).
Basically take a power output from behind the glove
box , split it and then feed the extension down the side of the passenger , under the seatbelt bar thing - under the back seat and into the boot.
Follow the same route as the cd changer cable (assuming
you have one).
Basically take a power output from behind the glove
box , split it and then feed the extension down the side of the passenger , under the seatbelt bar thing - under the back seat and into the boot.
OP
OP
Richard Davies
Guest
Thanx 4 the advice, but spliting a 48A constant +ve from a cable behind the glove box sounds a bit risky? I've been advised to take a supply straight from the battery (fused) thru the car to the amp (less voltage drop & thus more watts?!?!?). Is there an easy way to get from the battery to the boot or is it a serious strip out and drill job? Any advice would be much appreciated before I completely strip my HGT, not sure it will all go back together (love Fiat but it ain't A BM!!)
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AL
Guest
Wiring
Taking the supply from the battery is A must. I have done some installs on A Punto,205 gti + XR3i so have a bit of past experiance. Later on I will have a look on my bravo to see best route from engine bay to car (unless anyone else know's). Once it's in the car run it down the side tht has all the other power cables going down it NOT the side the speaker cables go down. Hope this help's. (You shouldn't have to do any drilling)
Taking the supply from the battery is A must. I have done some installs on A Punto,205 gti + XR3i so have a bit of past experiance. Later on I will have a look on my bravo to see best route from engine bay to car (unless anyone else know's). Once it's in the car run it down the side tht has all the other power cables going down it NOT the side the speaker cables go down. Hope this help's. (You shouldn't have to do any drilling)
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Si
Guest
wiring
Richard it's different in the HGT as theres next to no room in the engine bay to route the power cable.
I gave up trying to do it myself and took the car to my local ICE dealer who are one of the top companies in the country. In Car Systems of Camberley, they had a display car at Max Power Live and fitted out Elton Johns Bentley!!
It took then 2 days to get the cable through. Ended up taking the battery out to get some more room. Power cable goes through under the brake servo unit.
So you can do it yourself but be prepared to pull bits of the engine out.
By the way they only charged me £60. for the work.
Richard it's different in the HGT as theres next to no room in the engine bay to route the power cable.
I gave up trying to do it myself and took the car to my local ICE dealer who are one of the top companies in the country. In Car Systems of Camberley, they had a display car at Max Power Live and fitted out Elton Johns Bentley!!
It took then 2 days to get the cable through. Ended up taking the battery out to get some more room. Power cable goes through under the brake servo unit.
So you can do it yourself but be prepared to pull bits of the engine out.
By the way they only charged me £60. for the work.
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Trev
Guest
Hi
Ive installed a alarm in my 1997 Bravo, and needed
to get cables through the bulkhead to inside the car. I found the easiest way was to remove the wipers and the coweling, and then on the passenger side (in the engine bay) where the bonnet hinges are, there is a small space with a rubber grommet that goes through the bulkhead, and is just above the glove compartment from inside the car, obviously the glove compartment needs removing first, i then feed the wires through, and installed the alarm put everything back together, no problems at all. Hope this helps
Ive installed a alarm in my 1997 Bravo, and needed
to get cables through the bulkhead to inside the car. I found the easiest way was to remove the wipers and the coweling, and then on the passenger side (in the engine bay) where the bonnet hinges are, there is a small space with a rubber grommet that goes through the bulkhead, and is just above the glove compartment from inside the car, obviously the glove compartment needs removing first, i then feed the wires through, and installed the alarm put everything back together, no problems at all. Hope this helps
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Spyder
Guest
Re: Re: Wiring for boot mounted amp
as he says this is the best way to go, did mine in a couple of hours.
as he says this is the best way to go, did mine in a couple of hours.
OP
OP
Richard Davies
Guest
Thanx for the advice, I'll check it out. Sounds easier than drilling holes!!!
This car is driving me nuts, so far had to replace the remote locking system (£350), now the air con is doing some strange stuff and Fiat want it for 3 days just to investigate (quoting £300-£500 for finding the problem not to fix it). Got the 36k mile service in two weeks and I've only had the car 3 months. But I still love that engine!!
Does anyone know a good place for servicing in Norwich, other than Fiat who so far ain't been much help?
Again, cheers for all the help.
Rich.
This car is driving me nuts, so far had to replace the remote locking system (£350), now the air con is doing some strange stuff and Fiat want it for 3 days just to investigate (quoting £300-£500 for finding the problem not to fix it). Got the 36k mile service in two weeks and I've only had the car 3 months. But I still love that engine!!
Does anyone know a good place for servicing in Norwich, other than Fiat who so far ain't been much help?
Again, cheers for all the help.
Rich.
J
Jonathan
Guest
Wiring
I wouldnt route the cable thru by the wipers, it involvees removing the trim under the windscreen which doesnt go back on 100% and will allow water to collect under there.
Its easiest to get a shop to do it for you. My local ICE place charge £30 to wire an amp, £15 for a head unit and £25 for components. I tried fitting a stereo myself in my first bravo but it was more hassle than its worth, so i decided to get my second bravo done properly.
Bear in mind you WILL snap the door sill covers when you remove them, but if the shop snap them they will pay for it themselves.
I wouldnt route the cable thru by the wipers, it involvees removing the trim under the windscreen which doesnt go back on 100% and will allow water to collect under there.
Its easiest to get a shop to do it for you. My local ICE place charge £30 to wire an amp, £15 for a head unit and £25 for components. I tried fitting a stereo myself in my first bravo but it was more hassle than its worth, so i decided to get my second bravo done properly.
Bear in mind you WILL snap the door sill covers when you remove them, but if the shop snap them they will pay for it themselves.
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Tim
Guest
The EASIEST way by far is what i've done. I needed a lot of power 2 the boot as i'm running 3 Alpine V12 amps so needed some 4 gauge (15mm roungly) wire. Simply connect at the battery with a fuse for the right power and run the cable UNDER the car! I know this sounds mad but u can run it alongside the brake hydrolics the whole length then come into the boot from the spare wheel well through a grommet. It honestly cuts out lots of problems and is perfectly safe provided it is taut, properly fused and u have used a grommet.
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Trev
Guest
Re: Wiring
I fitted remote central locking to car and had to remove the sill trim, mine did not snap (maybe i was lucky!!!!)
The coweling trim (underneath the wipers) went back more
or less perfect, although i did buy some black winderscreen sealant and used this over the panel, as for letting in water, these are not supposed to be watertight anyway, there are drain holes etc under there to let the water drain out!!!
I fitted remote central locking to car and had to remove the sill trim, mine did not snap (maybe i was lucky!!!!)
The coweling trim (underneath the wipers) went back more
or less perfect, although i did buy some black winderscreen sealant and used this over the panel, as for letting in water, these are not supposed to be watertight anyway, there are drain holes etc under there to let the water drain out!!!
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AL
Guest
LOUD
F**k me Tim what the hell have you got to need 3 amps my ears were bleeding when I had 1 12" sub. Mind you I still wanted it to be louder.
F**k me Tim what the hell have you got to need 3 amps my ears were bleeding when I had 1 12" sub. Mind you I still wanted it to be louder.
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cathal
Guest
just wired an amp up in my bravo during the weekend, it was handy enough, if you take off the the passanger side door sill and pull back the carpet a fair bit you will find a rubber seal with some wires going thru it. If you push a wire thru the hole and look under the bonnet you should see the wire so I just routed my power caple thru that then under the carpet all the way along the door and under the back seat and into the boot, once I found that hole the rest
was handy enough.
was handy enough.
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Tim
Guest
Re: LOUD
lol i got an Alpine V12 4 channel for my infinity components front n back, then a V12 2 channel for each of the kicker impulse subs.. head units the new sony black lit one wiv the remote and ive got a 1 farad power cap 2 help keep the bass! its running around 138DB at the mo.. what setup u got mate?
lol i got an Alpine V12 4 channel for my infinity components front n back, then a V12 2 channel for each of the kicker impulse subs.. head units the new sony black lit one wiv the remote and ive got a 1 farad power cap 2 help keep the bass! its running around 138DB at the mo.. what setup u got mate?
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AL
Guest
My Install
Er, A grundig head unit with 6 cd changer, and standard speakers. Um can't afford anything else at the moment.
Er, A grundig head unit with 6 cd changer, and standard speakers. Um can't afford anything else at the moment.