Technical Wiper motor compatibility

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Technical Wiper motor compatibility

On Small Wheels

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New owner with lots of questions.

I purchased the car with inoperable wipers,
For Christmas, my wife got me a new motor.
Well, in the last couple weeks, I’m discovering that my “F” body car may be a collection of other models
126 motor
“R” model inside door levers

Looking at a USA based parts supplier, I see they offer two versions of the wiper motor.
One for F/L and the other for R/126

Insight?
 
New owner with lots of questions.

I purchased the car with inoperable wipers,
For Christmas, my wife got me a new motor.
Well, in the last couple weeks, I’m discovering that my “F” body car may be a collection of other models
126 motor
“R” model inside door levers

Looking at a USA based parts supplier, I see they offer two versions of the wiper motor.
One for F/L and the other for R/126

Insight?
I expect that you will require the model for theF/L versions---the 'R' was an 'end of run' car that was only sold in italy and was used (as far as I can see) to use up the remaining 500 bodies, but using some of the parts from the 'new' 126. What is your chassis number?
 
Once again Hobbler your response is appreciated.
By what I’ve read the “R” was only sold in Italy, but fans will ship them everywhere!
The body of my car is a F/L, made in 1971.
….odd that I have a 126 engine (that the transmission went out last Thursday….questions to come)
And “R” inner door pull openers
 

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Once again Hobbler your response is appreciated.
By what I’ve read the “R” was only sold in Italy, but fans will ship them everywhere!
The body of my car is a F/L, made in 1971.
….odd that I have a 126 engine (that the transmission went out last Thursday….questions to come)
And “R” inner door pull openers
That would seem to confirm which model wiper-motor you require. The 594cc (or 652cc) '126' motor is a very common enhancement for the 500. Its extra performance, particularly when accelerating, makes driving the 500 in today's traffic much less stressfull. What is the problem with your transmission?
 
Hobbler, I “guess’ I feel the exhilaration of more power of the 126! Lol
A friend owns a 1964D and says mine is so much faster and responsive.
Last Thursday I drove the 500 to work and back (30 miles). Moments after my son asked to drive it.
He couldn’t get it into reverse and it wouldn’t go into first without making a grinding noise whe. Releasing the clutch.

The engine starts and runs fine.
The grinding noise happens when the shifter is in gear and clutch is released.
When I engage the clutch, the grinding stops.

I drove those miles with any issue, yet resting less than 5 minutes….
I understand I purchased a used older vehicle, I’m expecting a broken shaft in the gearbox.
 
Hobbler, I “guess’ I feel the exhilaration of more power of the 126! Lol
A friend owns a 1964D and says mine is so much faster and responsive.
Last Thursday I drove the 500 to work and back (30 miles). Moments after my son asked to drive it.
He couldn’t get it into reverse and it wouldn’t go into first without making a grinding noise whe. Releasing the clutch.

The engine starts and runs fine.
The grinding noise happens when the shifter is in gear and clutch is released.
When I engage the clutch, the grinding stops.

I drove those miles with any issue, yet resting less than 5 minutes….
I understand I purchased a used older vehicle, I’m expecting a broken shaft in the gearbox.
How much free-play have you got AT the clutch pedal? You should have 35 to 40mm (1 3/8in to 1 9/16in). Adjustment is at the clutch end of the cable--there should be a 17mm nut with a rounded end that fits against the clutch operating arm, and a 10mm nut to lock the adjuster nut (the 17mm nut) in position. To remove free-play, adjust the 17mmut IN. Also. check the 'lollipop' that joins the selector rod into the gearbox and the rod from the gear-shift lever. This is a rubber-and-steel connector---sometimes they part company! If these checks don't cure the problem, come back to us.
 
Hobbler,
I will check this coming weekend.
Family commitments, work and? Are priority at the moment.
So you feel the clutch is the culprit?
If it’s the issue, it would be so much better!
 
How much free-play have you got AT the clutch pedal? You should have 35 to 40mm (1 3/8in to 1 9/16in). Adjustment is at the clutch end of the cable--there should be a 17mm nut with a rounded end that fits against the clutch operating arm, and a 10mm nut to lock the adjuster nut (the 17mm nut) in position. To remove free-play, adjust the 17mmut IN. Also. check the 'lollipop' that joins the selector rod into the gearbox and the rod from the gear-shift lever. This is a rubber-and-steel connector---sometimes they part company! If these checks don't cure the problem, come back to us.
Hobbler,
I measured the free play at the pedal and after multiple checks.
I have 1 3/8” of play.
Again,
The engine starts and runs.
When I engage the clutch I hear/feel nothing odd.
When in gear (assumed) and release the clutch, there is a grinding noise.

Thanks again for your time and knowledge!
 
How much free-play have you got AT the clutch pedal? You should have 35 to 40mm (1 3/8in to 1 9/16in). Adjustment is at the clutch end of the cable--there should be a 17mm nut with a rounded end that fits against the clutch operating arm, and a 10mm nut to lock the adjuster nut (the 17mm nut) in position. To remove free-play, adjust the 17mmut IN. Also. check the 'lollipop' that joins the selector rod into the gearbox and the rod from the gear-shift lever. This is a rubber-and-steel connector---sometimes they part company! If these checks don't cure the problem, come back to us.
 
Great news!
As I was getting ready to drain the transmission, I thought, put the car in gear and spin the wheels and listen and feel where the grinding is coming from.
Low and behold … The axle sleeve was broken in half!
Held on by the four bolts!

I’ll be back on the road next week!!
 

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That is the worst one I have ever seen. My son managed to explode one at the splined end. Can indicate misalignment so is the wheel bearing OK?
 
That is the worst one I have ever seen. My son managed to explode one at the splined end. Can indicate misalignment so is the wheel bearing OK?
This was on the splined end.
The four bolts actually kept the unit together but under any load would expand.
It’s just cast steel.
And with years of use (and abuse) failure was almost expected but my focus was on the transmission.
Lesson learned was to investigate (lay under the car and look at everything.
 
This was on the splined end.
The four bolts actually kept the unit together but under any load would expand.
It’s just cast steel.
And with years of use (and abuse) failure was almost expected but my focus was on the transmission.
Lesson learned was to investigate (lay under the car and look at everything.
When you order replacements for the couplings (do both) do NOT get the cheap ones---they have not been properly heat treated in the area of the splines. On the expensive couplings, you will see that the end of the coupling, in the are aof the splines, is 'blued' from the heat treatment---the cheap version do not have any 'blueing'..
Like David, I have never seen a coupling split like that, but I have experienced a 'cheap' version of the coupling have the splines on the coupling strip off---I was about to pull away from a set of traffic lights--front of the queue, morning rush hour. I was not popular!
 
When you order replacements for the couplings (do both) do NOT get the cheap ones---they have not been properly heat treated in the area of the splines. On the expensive couplings, you will see that the end of the coupling, in the are aof the splines, is 'blued' from the heat treatment---the cheap version do not have any 'blueing'..
Like David, I have never seen a coupling split like that, but I have experienced a 'cheap' version of the coupling have the splines on the coupling strip off---I was about to pull away from a set of traffic lights--front of the queue, morning rush hour. I was not popular!
Thanks for the tip!
 
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