Technical Whats going on here? CV joint?

[s130]

In simple terms there are three, four or five items to check

Outer O/S CV Joint
Outer N/S CV Joint
Inner O/S CV Joint
Inner N/S CV Joint
Gearbox Diff

The basic tests are:

1) Backlash / Play
2) Noise / Vibration / Grumbling

Won't detail all tests as they are all similar.

a) Put car in 1st gear
b) Jack O/S wheel up
c) rotate wheel checking angle of defection in either direction and note
d) rock wheel between limits checking for clunks / noise and note with steering at limits in each direction
e) use mole grips on drive shaft to lock shaft and then test wheel angular play and note
f) re-jack car so wheel hangs down with angled drive shaft, gear in neutral and rotate wheel and note any noise / grinding with steering at limits in each direction

Repeat for N/S

If you have inboard CV joints the again putting the gearbox in gear and using mole grips to rotate drive shaft backwards and forwards.

NOTE! Nothing can always be completely definitive but the N/S and O/S side comparisons can help guide to the culprit.

The other suggestion @jackwhoo of turning circle tests is also very good. Turning to the Left puts the N/S CV joint at it's max angle. O/S not so much. Opposite for turning to the Right.

This can all be tedious if you do not have a decent vehicle lift, So much more easily done when not grovelling on the ground.

Last point is that there is often quite a bit of backlash / play in the gearbox and differential hence the need to lock the drive shafts. Generally CV joints are quite tightly coupled between input and output when new but over time they do wear. This is why an A - B comparison can help. If both are stuffed then things become a little more difficult / speculative.

 

[AnthonyH]

I took it for another drive and i'm sure the noise is coming from the other side. i.e. the CV boot is fixed now, and it probably wasn't responsible for the clunking noise.

On the other side i've recently changed the strut mount, the lower ball joint (arm to hub), the track rod end and the droplink. Nothing is obviously loose but i haven't checked the strut mount bolts to the body of the car because its a faff taking the windscreen wipers off. I'll see what i can track down when i next get a chance.

Its still raining here, its stopping in the early hours of the morning...

 

[AnthonyH]

In simple terms there are three, four or five items to check

Outer O/S CV Joint
Outer N/S CV Joint
Inner O/S CV Joint
Inner N/S CV Joint
Gearbox Diff

The basic tests are:

1) Backlash / Play
2) Noise / Vibration / Grumbling

Won't detail all tests as they are all similar.

a) Put car in 1st gear
b) Jack O/S wheel up
c) rotate wheel checking angle of defection in either direction and note
d) rock wheel between limits checking for clunks / noise and note with steering at limits in each direction
e) use mole grips on drive shaft to lock shaft and then test wheel angular play and note
f) re-jack car so wheel hangs down with angle drove shaft, gear in neutral and rotate wheel and not any noise / grinding with steering at limits in each direction

Repeat for N/S

If you have inboard CV joints the again putting the gearbox in gear and using mole grips to rotate drive shaft backwards and forwards.

NOTE! Nothing can always be completely definitive but the N/S and O/S side comparisons can help guide to the culprit.

The other suggestion @jackwhoo of turning circle tests is also very good. Turning to the Left puts the N/S CV joint at it's max angle. O/S not so much. Opposite for turning to the Right.

This can all be tedious if you do not have a decent vehicle lift, So much more easily done when not grovelling on the ground.

Last point is that there is often quite a bit of backlash / play in the gearbox and differential hence the need to lock the drive shafts. Generally CV joints are quite tightly coupled between input and output when new but over time they do wear. This is why an A - B comparison can help. If both are stuffed then things become a little more difficult / speculative.

When i was rotating the hub to fill the CV joint with grease I could hear something I didn't think was right, but i'm not really sure. Its possible i'll be retuning to your post because it looks spot on advice.

I'll proceed with trying to sort out the problem with the other side first, the clunking does appear to be coming through the chassis into the cabin like a strut mount, but its not making the right noise to be the actual strut mount, with the strut mount being new anyway.

 

[AnthonyH]

Found it, hopefully theres nothing else. I put a new nut and bolt on there when i changed the ball joint and its failed immediately. Its just aswell it did or i could have been drving on the failed cv boot for a lot longer. Anyone know what torque this nut is supposed to be at? Its an M10.

 

[bugsymike]

Found it, hopefully theres nothing else. I put a new nut and bolt on there when i changed the ball joint and its failed immediately. Its just aswell it did or i could have been drving on the failed cv boot for a lot longer. Anyone know what torque this nut is supposed to be at? Its an M10.


View attachment 476416

Good job you found it.

 

[AnthonyH]

The wheel is now back on and i'm currently pleased with myself, but i'm going to drive it after i've had a wash etc. so i'll post back in a while with the results...

 

[AnthonyH]

And its still clunking...i'll check the strut mount to body next. But not till the weekend, my time is currently up.

 

[shera2025]

My 500X is knocking badly, so i just took a look and found this...

View attachment 476089

What is going on here?

Oh wow, that doesn’t look right at all! Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like something’s come loose or worn through, maybe a mount or suspension part? Definitely worth getting it checked before driving too far. Hopefully it’s an easy fix!