General What to look for?

[Classamin]

Hello everyone!

I'm going to be looking at a 2012 Fiat Panda Easy in the coming days with a view to buy. Doesn't have to be anything special or fancy as it's only going to be a vehicle to get me to work and back while my wife uses my Mazda through the winter (AWD and it's bigger and safer).

Any common issues with this year I should be on the lookout for? It's the 1.2 petrol as far as I'm aware, are these engines hardy enough with regular servicing?

 

[ClassicZoo]

They're solid engines as long as they're up to date with servicing. Make sure the cambelt/water pump has been changed especially as the later 1.2 is an interference engine. You will see different recommendations for when they should be replaced - personally I use 5 years or 50k miles whichever comes first as it's not an especially complicated job compared to some cars.

The shell is galvanised but do check for rust especially in the non-galvanised areas such as subframes and suspension components.

Otherwise just do the usual listening for odd noises on startup and driving. If there are any noises that might be attributed to the gearbox, that's not good news. Any other clunks/knocks are likely to be fairly simple and cost effective to resolve but would still be a negotiating point. Knocks from the rear are common and often due to the rear shock absorber mount bushes but new shocks are cheap and very easy to fit.

They're great cars!

 

[Classamin]

They're solid engines as long as they're up to date with servicing. Make sure the cambelt/water pump has been changed especially as the later 1.2 is an interference engine. You will see different recommendations for when they should be replaced - personally I use 5 years or 50k miles whichever comes first as it's not an especially complicated job compared to some cars.

The shell is galvanised but do check for rust especially in the non-galvanised areas such as subframes and suspension components.

Otherwise just do the usual listening for odd noises on startup and driving. If there are any noises that might be attributed to the gearbox, that's not good news. Any other clunks/knocks are likely to be fairly simple and cost effective to resolve but would still be a negotiating point. Knocks from the rear are common and often due to the rear shock absorber mount bushes but new shocks are cheap and very easy to fit.

They're great cars!

Cheers! Any idea when the interference engines started to be used or were all of the 1.2s used in the 2012 onwards cars interference engine? I went to have a look around the car last night with the owner's consent, she won't be around for a proper look or a test drive until later in the week but all looks very well underneath and around the car too. It's had a heap of new bits and has obviously been well looked after, but to her knowledge the timing belt has not been done. At any rate, she hasn't had it done as far as she can remember anyway so I'll be looking at the condition of the belts as a point of priority and getting it done as soon as possible if the sale goes ahead.

I didn't realise the shells were galvanised. Certainly explains why the underside is in such good condition after years in Shetland anyway! The front suspension arms have a slight degree of surface rust as do the very fronts of the sills, but nothing major and nothing that can't be sorted with a bit of maintenance to last years yet.

I'm excited to own this silly little car. I was originally only looking for a car to get me to work and back every day through winter while my partner uses our Mazda for herself and our child (she's less experienced at winter driving than I am and is safer having the better car with AWD, good tyres and more protection) but I can't help but crack a smile over the thought of shoving myself into a tiny little Panda.

 

[jrkitching]

were all of the 1.2s used in the 2012 onwards cars interference engine

Yes.

Certainly explains why the underside is in such good condition after years in Shetland anyway

The two most common parts to rust out during the useful life of the car are the rear twist beam and the sump. If these are both in reasonable condition and original, the rest of the car will likely be sound enough.

Both are replaceable at reasonable cost (if you do the work yourself), but neither is a pleasant job.

I'm excited to own this silly little car

If you've never owned anything like this before, the fuel consumption and turning circle will both impress you!

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

All cars have had fully galvanised bodyshell for many years now - which is why you see fewer cars rusting away. Most now reach a point where bits of suspension rust instead and which tend to be very expensive to replace. Surface rust in the front arms is normal. It’s the cups the rear springs sit in that are a Panda (and several other makes) weakness as the drain holes tend to block with small stones and so the cup and spring ends rust first.

As an aside, bigger cars are not automatically safer in winter: arguably a heavier car is more likely to slide off a snowy road. AWD helps you get going, but no car can stop on ice. Automatic cars are, generally less good in snow/ice too…
A manual Panda with winter tyres is a great little cold weather mountain goat

 

[Classamin]

Yes.



The two most common parts to rust out during the useful life of the car are the rear twist beam and the sump. If these are both in reasonable condition and original, the rest of the car will likely be sound enough.

Both are replaceable at reasonable cost (if you do the work yourself), but neither is a pleasant job.



If you've never owned anything like this before, the fuel consumption and turning circle will both impress you!

Both looked relatively clean to my eye, I know it's certainly had new rear suspension parts since the last MOT. Most parts I've seen that I'd be comfortable replacing myself seem reasonably priced which is always a bonus!

My CX-5 is relatively manoeuvrable for a bigger car, but the fuel economy isn't great when it's relatively short trips. I'm getting around 32mpg combined just now, which isn't too hellish for a 2.2d in a big car with AWD but I do expect the fuel bill to be slightly better with the Panda. It's certainly cheaper for insurance and tax, so any savings are good savings as far as I'm concerned!

 

[Classamin]

All cars have had fully galvanised bodyshell for many years now - which is why you see fewer cars rusting away. Most now reach a point where bits of suspension rust instead and which tend to be very expensive to replace. Surface rust in the front arms is normal. It’s the cups the rear springs sit in that are a Panda (and several other makes) weakness as the drain holes tend to block with small stones and so the cup and spring ends rust first.

As an aside, bigger cars are not automatically safer in winter: arguably a heavier car is more likely to slide off a snowy road. AWD helps you get going, but no car can stop on ice. Automatic cars are, generally less good in snow/ice too…
A manual Panda with winter tyres is a great little cold weather mountain goat

Suppose that's true enough. Shetland climate seems to wreck most cars quick enough, it's very salty up here and I've seen a lot of newer cars suffer to it too so it's always nice to see a car of this age in as good condition as it is, it does speak volumes for how well the car has been kept in most cases, though not all. Either way, if the components on this car can be wire wheeled back and given a coat of rust converter and hammerite to keep them good for longer then that's certainly what I'll be doing!

It's more likely to slide being bigger, I agree. But the car itself is also safer than a wee Panda, especially with our daughter onboard. My partner does know what she's doing in snow and ice, but she certainly has more confidence driving the Mazda in winter is maybe more correct to say. It's a 2.2d awd manual so is quite manageable when the going gets tough, we've never been stuck yet and both know the car well enough to know what to do, it's just I'm more comfortable jumping in a range of vehicles and getting on with it.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Suppose that's true enough. Shetland climate seems to wreck most cars quick enough, it's very salty up here and I've seen a lot of newer cars suffer to it too so it's always nice to see a car of this age in as good condition as it is, it does speak volumes for how well the car has been kept in most cases, though not all. Either way, if the components on this car can be wire wheeled back and given a coat of rust converter and hammerite to keep them good for longer then that's certainly what I'll be doing!

It's more likely to slide being bigger, I agree. But the car itself is also safer than a wee Panda, especially with our daughter onboard. My partner does know what she's doing in snow and ice, but she certainly has more confidence driving the Mazda in winter is maybe more correct to say. It's a 2.2d awd manual so is quite manageable when the going gets tough, we've never been stuck yet and both know the car well enough to know what to do, it's just I'm more comfortable jumping in a range of vehicles and getting on with it.

Apologies - I'd missed the Shetland bit

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

One other comment - the Panda (and again, most other cars now) really doesn’t like a ‘tired’ battery. Low voltage at start-up can lead to spurious warning lights and messages… a battery over 4 or 5 years old - especially if the car has stop/start is often nearing the end of its life. (It might start the car ok, but the voltage drop caused by the starter ‘fools’ sensors as they don’t get a full voltage as they do their checks)