Did with help of eldest son, up on the metal ramps we got it leaking, engine very hot and water pressure up...it was a case of crawling under arms up the back of engine, water could be seen dribbling down inside of foil protection sleeve so moved this up and there it was...like a sliver needle out the side of the pipe and dribbling down to the water pump housing area...temporary measure wrapped some silicone self amalgamating around it...but think its still seeping...waiting to hear from main dealer if they have this hose. Have been wondering in hindsight if a standard lengh of plain heater hose might do the trick here...any thoughts?
New heater hose should be here Thursday. After replacing this since most of the coolant is now water from frequent top ups I intend to replace with proper coolant. This is on the advice of a friend who tells me water only will corrode the insides...proper coolant will not? Need your help here Guys...how much coolant should I buy and what sort is best; and of course the BIG question-where are the bleed nipples (if any) for coolant-I have vague memories that there are some areas prone to a permanent air lock?
The old leaking pipe had worn on the head of a bolt round the back of the engine. All now replaced and coolant topped up. I am still concerned that we could not find any bleed valve!!, there is one mentioned in the Russek book, where the two hoses to cabin heater matrix are junctioned to the coolant circle-but could not see any sign of a valve anywhere? Coolant level now constant, heaters are blowing hot....have I gotten it solved or could there still be any air locks that are going to plague me later????
