Technical VVT error Fiat 500 1.2 Lounge 2017

[Alps500]

Hi All In need of some advice please

I had a leaking Cam cover usual issue , plastic cover, plastic bug seems to give up and leak. I initially removed the bung and put a bit of gasket maker in and then epoxied it. this didn't work and carried on leaking. everything else was working as normal at this point.

I then decided to remove the cam cover and seal it properly, so removed it, cleaned it, gasket maker, plastic weld and then epoxy. put everything back together and leak fixed.... however... this is where the errors started.

Initially I started getting P0008 P0009 errors, I replaced the Cam sensor, error still there, I then read about the cam cover alignment tool, so I bought this aligned it and all seemed well, after a short drive P0009 + P0011 errors.

I then carried out a fresh oil and filter change, error still there

I thought I might have blocked an oil channel in the cam cover , so I bought a new aftermarket cam cover, put it all back together, all aligned errors still there.

I then bought a 2nd hand VVT sensor and replaced that, the car seem to run ok, only for a little longer than on the previous sensor then the engine light came back. as this was a used unit I purchased another brand new one, put it in and it ran for a bit longer, but then it dropped power and errors back again.

so far

- New cam sensor
- new VVT sensor
- new Cam cover
- alignment tool used (multiecuscan sw)
- phonic relearn procedure (multiecuscan sw)- cam relearn procedure

the exact error is

Whilst driving just below 2k rpm seems a little jerky , then on load up hill etc power drops and then engine light.

spark plugs were changed recently,

I have just ordered some leads

the only other thing is to change the coil pack, although when checking using a multimeter all the pin values seem to show a consistent 0.8. I might just change it anyway to rule it out!

To confirm, the errors started after removing the cam cover, I haven't touched anything near the timing belt etc.

anything else I am missing here? before I give up and hand it into a garage?

I work on cars as a hobby and this should have been a simple job on my daughters car which has turned into a PITA, any help appreciated.

Alps

 

[The Panda Nut]

Remove the wire, undo the single allen head screw gently lever it out of the cam cover. Clean VERY thoroughly with carburettor cleaner spray untill there is no discolouration. place it in new engine oil for a few minutes until is really soaked and then replace. You may need to repeat this more than once. It may have failed, but what I do know is they stick and this makes the car drive poorly. They can be had for around £45 if it has actually failed, but I doubt this. Poor driving is also caused by oil from thebreather system foulding teh MAP sensor in the end of the manifold. Remove the throttle body mop out the inlet manifold and then remove and celan teh MAP snesor from teh left hpend of the manifold. Clean throttle body while it is out. I have found htis makes a very big difference. The 69hp engine needs to be revved and under 2000rpm there is little pull. ITs should go pretty well above 3500 however. I have fitted a catch can on the breather to collect condensate and oil mist. I reckon it was avery good idea the can catches enough to make a difference and the car has been fine ever since..

 

[Alps500]

Remove the wire, undo the single allen head screw gently lever it out of the cam cover. Clean VERY thoroughly with carburettor cleaner spray untill there is no discolouration. place it in new engine oil for a few minutes until is really soaked and then replace. You may need to repeat this more than once. It may have failed, but what I do know is they stick and this makes the car drive poorly. They can be had for around £45 if it has actually failed, but I doubt this. Poor driving is also caused by oil from thebreather system foulding teh MAP sensor in the end of the manifold. Remove the throttle body mop out the inlet manifold and then remove and celan teh MAP snesor from teh left hpend of the manifold. Clean throttle body while it is out. I have found htis makes a very big difference. The 69hp engine needs to be revved and under 2000rpm there is little pull. ITs should go pretty well above 3500 however. I have fitted a catch can on the breather to collect condensate and oil mist. I reckon it was avery good idea the can catches enough to make a difference and the car has been fine ever since..

Thanks for the quick reply, which wire are you referring to here? thanks

 

[puntodeltathema]

Did you replace the 4 O-rings sealing the cam cover to the cam carrier? Can be quite hard to see on the black plastic cover. They always get squished and then don't maintain oil pressure to the VVT system hence the errors. So you always need to replace them if you have the cover off. You get the O-rings with most cam cover gaskets, e.g. via eBay sellers.

 

[Alps500]

Did you replace the 4 O-rings sealing the cam cover to the cam carrier? Can be quite hard to see on the black plastic cover. They always get squished and then don't maintain oil pressure to the VVT system hence the errors. So you always need to replace them if you have the cover off. You get the O-rings with most cam cover gaskets, e.g. via eBay sellers.

Hi Puntodeltathema

yes the new valve cover had all the new o rings already on there already. I even replaced the main valve cover gasket with a new fiat one which is wider than the original and the one that came with the valve cover .

seems the hesitation is around the 2k rpm mark.

 

[Alps500]

Remove the wire, undo the single allen head screw gently lever it out of the cam cover. Clean VERY thoroughly with carburettor cleaner spray untill there is no discolouration. place it in new engine oil for a few minutes until is really soaked and then replace. You may need to repeat this more than once. It may have failed, but what I do know is they stick and this makes the car drive poorly. They can be had for around £45 if it has actually failed, but I doubt this. Poor driving is also caused by oil from thebreather system foulding teh MAP sensor in the end of the manifold. Remove the throttle body mop out the inlet manifold and then remove and celan teh MAP snesor from teh left hpend of the manifold. Clean throttle body while it is out. I have found htis makes a very big difference. The 69hp engine needs to be revved and under 2000rpm there is little pull. ITs should go pretty well above 3500 however. I have fitted a catch can on the breather to collect condensate and oil mist. I reckon it was avery good idea the can catches enough to make a difference and the car has been fine ever since..

map sensor also cleaned to no avail.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Hi Puntodeltathema

yes the new valve cover had all the new o rings already on there already. I even replaced the main valve cover gasket with a new fiat one which is wider than the original and the one that came with the valve cover .

seems the hesitation is around the 2k rpm mark.

They do this. Ruby (2014 1.2) had got shocking. If the cam belt has been done and verified ok, keep on cleaning AND TAKE IT OUT AND GIVE IT SOME WELLY. we have had this problem but all 3 of the 1.2s are going well now. I have a feeling oil also has some bearing. Using Quantum c3 platinum grade has had a great benefit and we have no hydraulic tappet noises at all. Maybe the vvt variator is choosey.
I would say that asking a 69hp 1.2 to do much pulling below 2500 is a big ask and not really likely. Ours are all slow at these revs but the transition to power is now progressive from 2000 rpm up. Below that the engine is lethargic in all of them. Get the vvt working and they are up to the job. Having seen how tardy they get and what happens when they are right I say dont give up yet.

 

[Alps500]

They do this. Ruby (2014 1.2) had got shocking. If the cam belt has been done and verified ok, keep on cleaning AND TAKE IT OUT AND GIVE IT SOME WELLY. we have had this problem but all 3 of the 1.2s are going well now. I have a feeling oil also has some bearing. Using Quantum c3 platinum grade has had a great benefit and we have no hydraulic tappet noises at all. Maybe the vvt variator is choosey.
I would say that asking a 69hp 1.2 to do much pulling below 2500 is a big ask and not really likely. Ours are all slow at these revs but the transition to power is now progressive from 2000 rpm up. Below that the engine is lethargic in all of them. Get the vvt working and they are up to the job. Having seen how tardy they get and what happens when they are right I say dont give up yet.

Engine light back on again after 10 miles of driving, so something isn’t quite right still, will pull the codes again later