Technical vibration from the front & oil pressure

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Technical vibration from the front & oil pressure

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Jan 20, 2010
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Hi, I have a 2ltr 16v non turbo coupe. HELP !!! When I accelerate hard or I go above 50mph I can feel a lot of vibration from the front of the car??? Also when the engine is cold, I have to wait around 3-4 mins before I pull away. If I don't it stalls???? Lastly!!! My oil pressure gage moved up and down depending on If I am moving or not. I drive, the pressure stays put. I idle, it drops down then gets a little erratic....New owner. Thank you
 
Re: Oil pressure, Mine is a 20VT but I would think it's similar? (I await for someone to say otherwise...)
Obvious I know, I'm not being smart but check you oil level. That is a basic main reason for varying oil pressures. Some coupes are a little oil hungry and some are a slight bit leaky around sump plugs or seals and may not be apparent straight away if you have an undertray still on the car as the oil will collect on there first before leaking to the ground.

The oil level should also drop when you are not accelerating anyway, Mine sits at a constant 3bar when I start the car (including when I accelerate off) and then when the car warms up it falls to about 2.5 bar when not accelerating and when super hot goes down to 2bar when Idle or if oil needs topping up. It should always be at 3bar or very close while accelerating. If it is not you are losing preasure at some point and this may be a simple fix up (sensor) or a scary underlying problem (bent valves, worn piston rings etc.) but don't worry as it is more likely to just be something simple.
Also a thicker grade oil may help too, I use Silkolene Pro S 10W-50 Pricey and maybe not needed for the 16V NA
 
Hi, oil problem sorted (low on oil) pressure is fine now, thank you for the info (it worked). Do you have a clue about the other issues that I have? Rgds Darren
 
The vibrations could just be a balancing problem, check both wheels are balanced up front.

It might be a partly balding tire (Check inside edges of the tire as these tend to get worn away quickly if the cars tracking is off).

It may also be that you need new bushes on your wishbones (Lower Arm suspension) which means changing the complete wishbone and best to do both sides. I think a wishbone costs around £60 + VAT & P&P (But I'm only guessing here best to phone up and ask (01484 86533)), from Alternative Auto's (Usually a good bit cheaper than Fiat) for OE ones and cheaper non OE versions are available from eBay if you can do with aftermarket ones (Roughly £30 + P&P).

You might just need the anti roll bar links (drop links) replaced as they might be worn (I think about £12 + VAT each for the bar and bush).
And again track rod ends may need replaced (£18 + VAT each) while you are tidying up the suspension.
There are other possibilities as unfortunately there is a fair few things that can go wrong.

Some items are cheaper on eBay but be wary of quality, some stuff is genuinely good but some is rubbish. When I replaced these parts I got OE parts as they are supposed to last longer and bought them of Alternative Auto's to save on Fiat's prices even though AA's postage is a little steep to where I live (non UK Mainland resident).

If you have enough cash to spare it is always recommended to get all 3 things replaced on each side at the same time to save on possible new problems occurring quickly afterwards.

Some people will say that some of these items are not likely to be the cause but I noticed a difference when I changed mine.

But my main piece of advice is to check both the balancing and tire wear/tracking. Then if this isn't the problem, ask a mechanic to have a quick look at the bushes on your suspension arms and links as he should be able to see problems and he should do this for free.

The conking out problem sounds like fuelling but I don't know much on that. Does she idle ok? If not then there may be a problem with the idle control valve or a problem with the throttle not opening up fully which could be a sensor problem (water temp etc.). There are many how too guides on the http://www.fccuk.org/forum/ and loads of the guys over there are really helpful, I would be lost without their help. Sometimes you get contradicting advice and doom and gloom possibilities about what is wrong because they have all had experiences but generally it is the more common problems that are the answer to most people’s queries. They will definitely help you out in all areas and are all sound people.
 
Again, thank you very much for all your help and knowledge. This car has had a recent mot (2 months ago) so I am thinking all the possible problems you mentioned may not be the cause as any issues should have been picked up by the tester (but I value your thoughts and I will get under the car to have a look).

The other thing I forgot to mention is that it only shakes under acceleration in fourth gear 50mph onwards till I hit around 70, then it is not as bad. I will check all the things you mentioned, maybe the acceleration bit may have other implications?

As for the conking out, this only happens if the engine is cold and lasts for about 3-4 mins. After that it goes like a dream and idle's fine after that at around 900-1000 rpm. I'll keep you posted. Darren
 
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As for the conking out, this only happens if the engine is cold and lasts for about 3-4 mins. After that it goes like a dream and idle's fine after that at around 900-1000 rpm. I'll keep you posted. Darren

sounds like a dirty/broken idle control valve, it's the shiny thing with a connector on top, it's attached to the right hand side of the engine, at the back. try disconnecting it and see if the symptons change looks like this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Idle-control-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea6893b03

Try taking it off and spraying carb cleaner into it, could just be dirt, also the resistance through it should be in the region of 7.2ohms, if you have a multimeter handy. can't remember the exact rating, but it's similar to that... :chin:

as for the vibration at speed it sounds like wheel balance, take it to any tyre fitters and ask them to sort it out. should cost a maximum of £10 or so to have the front wheels balanced. this is normally down to just wear of the tyre, just a normal thing, nothing on MoT for wheel balance if that's what you're thinking.
 
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