It really is as simple as the title suggests - what's the spec of the standard wheel bolt please (4x4 flavour, lest that makes a difference)
TIA
TIA
Technical Very simple question if I may? Standard wheel bolt spec.
- Thread starter Bonefish Blues
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Very simple question if I may? Standard wheel bolt spec.
Rusty nuts?
If the question is because you need to replace, then these are supposed to be the correct fit - but do check
www.gsfcarparts.com
Wheel Bolt - Front/Rear | GSF Car Parts
Shop Wheel Bolt - Front/Rear from GSF. We have everything you need for your vehicle. Enjoy fast, free UK delivery over £25 or pick up in-store at one of our nationwide branches.
And from memory, tightening torque is 100Nm
OP
OP
I feel some context is required
My nuts are just dandy, thanks. Done up to at least 4BN Nms by my local tyre place (Motto: "If the car's not rotating, they aren't tight enough!")
Some may remember I'm running Cross-sized tyres (185/65 R15s) on my 4x4. Reports were that some people fitted them nae problem, whereas others reported some rubbing on lock. And so it proved, with rubbing when I next swung around in the school entrance. Not a problem, 5mm spacers sort it, and so I fitted them. All well, no rubbing, happy days for the next 2+ years.
Well, happy days until we came to a test drive with a prospective new purchaser on Friday, when we discovered, much to my embarrassment
that on absolute full lock in reverse it was possible to get rubbing (on the subframe I assume which already has a cutout, I recall) Obviously I'd not done a full lock reverse in 2 years, but there you go! It may also be connected to the Vred All Seasons I'm running at the front, which have a noticeably broader profile than the Kumhos out back - a different tyre might have enough clearance.
Anyhow, easy enough to order up some 10mm spacers, and that will make absolutely sure that the 185s won't rub - but I need to order some new bolts as the current ones will be too short for safety. So that, in a much bigger nutshell, is why I need to be sure of the OE thread length & pitch so I can add that 10mm. I may have kept the old ones, or the garage may have retained them, can't remember. I can always go and wrangle a bolt off in the rain and measure it, but I confess to some laziness on a Sunday morning (I assume that we have 48.5 as the standard thread length from the Febi bolt you linked @Herts Hillhopper )
So there you go, there's always a backstory to even the simplest query!
BTW, the car sold
My nuts are just dandy, thanks. Done up to at least 4BN Nms by my local tyre place (Motto: "If the car's not rotating, they aren't tight enough!")
Some may remember I'm running Cross-sized tyres (185/65 R15s) on my 4x4. Reports were that some people fitted them nae problem, whereas others reported some rubbing on lock. And so it proved, with rubbing when I next swung around in the school entrance. Not a problem, 5mm spacers sort it, and so I fitted them. All well, no rubbing, happy days for the next 2+ years.
Well, happy days until we came to a test drive with a prospective new purchaser on Friday, when we discovered, much to my embarrassment
that on absolute full lock in reverse it was possible to get rubbing (on the subframe I assume which already has a cutout, I recall) Obviously I'd not done a full lock reverse in 2 years, but there you go! It may also be connected to the Vred All Seasons I'm running at the front, which have a noticeably broader profile than the Kumhos out back - a different tyre might have enough clearance.Anyhow, easy enough to order up some 10mm spacers, and that will make absolutely sure that the 185s won't rub - but I need to order some new bolts as the current ones will be too short for safety. So that, in a much bigger nutshell, is why I need to be sure of the OE thread length & pitch so I can add that 10mm. I may have kept the old ones, or the garage may have retained them, can't remember. I can always go and wrangle a bolt off in the rain and measure it, but I confess to some laziness on a Sunday morning (I assume that we have 48.5 as the standard thread length from the Febi bolt you linked @Herts Hillhopper )
So there you go, there's always a backstory to even the simplest query!
BTW, the car sold
OP
OP
Update. No, that is the overall length of the bolt I believe. The standard bolt has a 22mm thread, so I need 12x1.25 tapered 32mm
Happy to have my homework checked!
Happy to have my homework checked!
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2017
- Messages
- 991
- Points
- 319
M12 fine (1.25) sounds about right. I would want the tensile strength of the bolt to be to spec or above (sorry to be a bore!) due to the potential extra bending moment with a spacer. I know I'll probably get slaughtered for that comment since if torqued correctly then the friction between wheel, spacer, spacer hub should take most of the load... But I think you know this stuff
OP
OP
So no wooden bolts then? Or cardboard derivatives?M12 fine (1.25) sounds about right. I would want the tensile strength of the bolt to be to spec or above (sorry to be a bore!) due to the potential extra bending moment with a spacer. I know I'll probably get slaughtered for that comment since if torqued correctly then the friction between wheel, spacer, spacer hub should take most of the load... But I think you know this stuff
Any and every excuse to post this classic:
I wonder…. If it rubs in reverse but not when going forwards, does that suggest the rear support bushes of the suspension arms (wishbones) are worn? They would then push backwards while driving forwards, but the wheels might be pulled forward during reversing, if you see what I mean.
Also, to see if it’s down to the Vredesteins being ‘wider’, swap the wheels around from front to back
Also, to see if it’s down to the Vredesteins being ‘wider’, swap the wheels around from front to back
OP
OP
Mike the mechanic says all's good downstairs*, and TBF my measurement of success was no rubbing in the location where I'd provoked it, so I'm not even sure if I have cranked full lock on forwards either!
*Fnarr
