Technical Uno Start 999cc weird problems.

[steve3123]

Hi all i bought my uno a week ago today and now im at the end of my tether :bang: It will start first time everytime from cold, and run perfectly... once the engine has warmed up, it will then quit no matter if i am giving it revs or not. OR it will run perfectly fine until i turn it off... then it will refuse to start until it is cold again. I noticed the dizzy cap was worn and even semi melted in places, so i replaced it, including the rotor arm. Now it ran fine for all of ten minutes and then quit again. I have limited funds and even more limited knowledge of petrol engines. Any ideas?? I Love this car, and ive owned a few, but ive never owned a fiat. so please please please, help me. In standard english please!

1995 done 71k N reg

 

[gorkemonat]

problem can be the coil a friends car had the same problem and i solved it that way if you can try a new coil maybe it can fix your problem.

 

[steve3123]

problem can be the coil a friends car had the same problem and i solved it that way if you can try a new coil maybe it can fix your problem.

Any ideas how much something like that would be??? Dont want to spend £££ if its not the coil.

 

[Uno driver]

I'm almost sure you have problems with ignition module, located at rear of distributor. It costs ~30eur over here

 

[steve3123]

I just remembered to get home from work tonight, and it decided to quit halfway home i sprayed a very little amount of WD40 inside the dizzy. Car started on first turn, and it got me home great! approx 6 miles, it then cut out on my own driveway.

 

[steve3123]

*** UPDATE***

Brand new coil fitted ran the car for 20 minutes standing still... then drove around for a couple of miles, car was running perfectly. Left car then for approx one hour to have my dinner. Car then wouldnt start again.. When it did it ran for approx 3 minutes then quit. It eventually restarted, but idled poorly then quit while i was trying to give it revs

any ideas now???? :bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:

 

[gorkemonat]

well are we talking about a carburettor fitted uno or spi one?if you have a carburettor the only thing in my mind about what is left is the ignition module you can see it right on the distributor a metal part which also helps to cool the distributor you can take a look at it.And you can try if it's the problem there's 2 wires attached to the ignition module if you can take it out while the car doesn't start cool it down, refit and try again if it starts if yes it must be the module which is faulty

 

[steve3123]

well are we talking about a carburettor fitted uno or spi one?if you have a carburettor the only thing in my mind about what is left is the ignition module you can see it right on the distributor a metal part which also helps to cool the distributor you can take a look at it.And you can try if it's the problem there's 2 wires attached to the ignition module if you can take it out while the car doesn't start cool it down, refit and try again if it starts if yes it must be the module which is faulty

Spi.

 

[Chas Uno]

As others have said, almost certainly it is the ignition module at fault going by your original symptoms.

Spraying WD40 inside the distributor is not a good idea as it can coat the electrical contacts of the dizzy cap and rotor arm causing all sorts of problems. The inside of the distributor should be kept as dry as possible with the exception of the shaft, which should only need a tiny amount of grease (if any).

Take the dizzy cap off and try and clean the inside of all traces of WD40, along with the rotor arm, and it should work better. And if you're still have starting/ running problems when the engine gets hot then change the finned ignition module bolted onto the side of the dizzy as this is a known failure point and can cause the symptoms you describe.

Good luck!

 

[steve3123]

As others have said, almost certainly it is the ignition module at fault going by your original symptoms.

Spraying WD40 inside the distributor is not a good idea as it can coat the electrical contacts of the dizzy cap and rotor arm causing all sorts of problems. The inside of the distributor should be kept as dry as possible with the exception of the shaft, which should only need a tiny amount of grease (if any).

Take the dizzy cap off and try and clean the inside of all traces of WD40, along with the rotor arm, and it should work better. And if you're still have starting/ running problems when the engine gets hot then change the finned ignition module bolted onto the side of the dizzy as this is a known failure point and can cause the symptoms you describe.

Good luck!

I removed the entire distributor system, gave it a clean, (NO WD40) and tried to remove the finned ignition module, But, there were 3 wires going underneath it to the dizzy system. I cant figure out how the two are removed, or do i just removed the black metal finned thingy??

All plugs are Brand new and set correctly as well as a nice new set of HT leads. Now the car will start from hot, idle fine and quit approx 2 minutes later. Will start first time from cold but as soon as temp gauge hits 65' 70 degrees, it quits.

This metal finned thingy (see im using technical terms) does it have a model or part number, i tried my local motor spares place and they do everything for every car ever made, but when i asked them for an ignition module for my uno start, they replied that they havent been made for five years or more. Now i think thats wrong, but any ideas????

 

[steve3123]

***UPDATE***

I finally removed the black finned metal 'thingy' from the dizzy and noticed the extra wires, anyway i noticed the plugs had oil all over them, i pulled them off and gave them a clean, as well as the terminals themselves. some were covered in a yellow type gunk. Others looked worn, i gave them all a gentle file, to removed what looked to me like the metal degrading in parts. you know covered in like a white flakey stuff. Anyway, put it back on the car. Car started first time, and idled normally didnt quit or anything, i let it hit 90'c when the fan kicks in and turned it off. I turned the key and she started straight away, and ran normally. So i gave it the ultimate test, turned off the car and left it for 45 minutes, (when i have done this in the past its always refused to start) turned the key and she fired up straight away.

Thanks for all your help guys!!!!

One quick question, there is a plastic pipe which goes onto a funny thing connected to the dizzy vacuum i think, anyway i can suck and blow down this pipe, when i suck i taste petrol but none comes through, and when i blow the air comes out the other end. when i take pipe off the car runs crap...

 

[Chas Uno]

One quick question, there is a plastic pipe which goes onto a funny thing connected to the dizzy vacuum i think, anyway i can suck and blow down this pipe, when i suck i taste petrol but none comes through, and when i blow the air comes out the other end. when i take pipe off the car runs crap...

The plastic pipe connects the vacuum advance diaphragm on the side of the distributor with the inlet manifold (connected via the carburettor/ throttle body baseplate). The vacuum created in the inlet manifold determines how much ignition advance/ retard is given to the moveable dizzy base plate depending on the engine load. You also have the centrifugal bob weights affecting the the advance/ retard depending on rpm.

With the pipe disconnected from the carburettor/ throttle body end, you should feel resistance if you try and blow/ suck through it. This is because you will be acting against the vacuum diaphragm, which if working correctly will not allow any air past it hence causing a vacuum. If you disconnect from the distributor end you won't feel any resistance when blowing/ sucking as you'll simply be acting against the air in the inlet manifold! You will also taste petrol from the vapour that will be present, as air and fuel are present in the inlet manifold.

Oh, and the engine is designed to run with the a certain degree of vacuum advance/ retard at tickover so if you disconnect this pipe it will run bady!

Hope this explains it

 

[rawill]

Great result again, when someone diagnoses and repairs their car themselves it is very pleasing.

steve, do you think the most recent stall when the fan cut in was only because the drag on the motor from the fan meant the engine was not able to idle fast enough.

 

[steve3123]

Great result again, when someone diagnoses and repairs their car themselves it is very pleasing.

steve, do you think the most recent stall when the fan cut in was only because the drag on the motor from the fan meant the engine was not able to idle fast enough.

No i shut the car off when the fan kicked in... normally when i try and start the car again, it wouldnt start. but now ive fixed it she is fine! Dont forget ive have never owned a fiat before.. (i was sad and owned rovers) But as ive only had the car 11 days now im sort of learning as i go.... i know for a fact i could strip the distributor down in my sleep, which ive never done before!!! lol i love my little uno, she's got a great personality, something which none of my rovers seemed to have. :slayer:

 

[steve3123]

The plastic pipe connects the vacuum advance diaphragm on the side of the distributor with the inlet manifold (connected via the carburettor/ throttle body baseplate). The vacuum created in the inlet manifold determines how much ignition advance/ retard is given to the moveable dizzy base plate depending on the engine load. You also have the centrifugal bob weights affecting the the advance/ retard depending on rpm.

With the pipe disconnected from the carburettor/ throttle body end, you should feel resistance if you try and blow/ suck through it. This is because you will be acting against the vacuum diaphragm, which if working correctly will not allow any air past it hence causing a vacuum. If you disconnect from the distributor end you won't feel any resistance when blowing/ sucking as you'll simply be acting against the air in the inlet manifold! You will also taste petrol from the vapour that will be present, as air and fuel are present in the inlet manifold.

Oh, and the engine is designed to run with the a certain degree of vacuum advance/ retard at tickover so if you disconnect this pipe it will run bady!

Hope this explains it

Yes thanks, as i said im learning as i go! I wasnt mechanically minded in petrol engines... now computers yes, engines no.... but im learning!!!

 

[gorkemonat]

i'm glad you managed to solve it

 

[steve3123]

Not exactly... car started fine this morning, drove to work car was perfect, drove home, again car was perfect, decided to pop over to my moms car quit in the middle of a junction! Pushed it over to the curb, and removed the ignition module, it was RED HOT, so ive bit the bullet and ordered one. It will be fitted in the car tomorrow. Assuming my car is still where i left it! Because i was less than a mile from home my breakdown company wouldnt come out. If it isnt the module at fault, then i am out of idea's.
So far in 12 days i have spent almost £200 now in replacement parts. If it isnt this, then i aint got a clue. What else could make it do this?? PLEASE your info is greatly required :worship::worship::worship:

 

[steve3123]

****UPDATE******

New ignition module fitted, car started ran for approx 30 seconds then quit. 2nd turn of the key car started, i gave it steady revs to warm up, again it quit after 30 seconds. Now refusing point blank to start. :bang::bang::bang:

 

[Chas Uno]

****UPDATE******

New ignition module fitted, car started ran for approx 30 seconds then quit. 2nd turn of the key car started, i gave it steady revs to warm up, again it quit after 30 seconds. Now refusing point blank to start. :bang::bang::bang:

Is the new module also getting very hot? If it is then you may have an earthing problem. Also, intermittent ignition problems are very often down to a dodgy connection somewhere. Double check that the low tension wiring is intact and the connections clean and connected securely.

Where are you based? If you are near to me I might be able to have a look when I get back home from holiday.

 

[steve3123]

Is the new module also getting very hot? If it is then you may have an earthing problem. Also, intermittent ignition problems are very often down to a dodgy connection somewhere. Double check that the low tension wiring is intact and the connections clean and connected securely.

Where are you based? If you are near to me I might be able to have a look when I get back home from holiday.

Its not an ignition fault! GRRRR i spent all that money for nothing. It turns out the fuel is NOT going through to the carb, ive pulled off the fuel pipes, and there IS fuel going to the carb But not through it. I have no knowledge of SPI carbs. HELP!!!!:worship: https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/data/1310/Throttle_body3.jpg Is the carb thats fitted... any idea how to clean?? I blew as hard as i could through the fuel line leading into the carb while a friend was trying to start the car and pumping the accelerator... NOTHING happened, no drop in pressure. How can i clean these??

BTW Im in Birmingham UK