General ulysse clutch

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General ulysse clutch

Joined
Jun 17, 2006
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97
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Location
brighton
hello to everyone, i'm fairly new on here but I got a problem with my clutch, it needs replacing and I just wanted to know if it was a job that could be done by myself and my mate or if it was better to take to a main dealers, my reason for asking i'm in the motor trade and asked a couple of large well known dealers about doing the clutch on my car but they said they didn't want to even go near it.:(
Is it because it's so difficult or is it that special tools are required? also i have read that they say you can't change the clutch cable because of the auto adjustment which needs to be done by main dealer?
TIA

FIAT ULYSSE 2.0S 8V 1997 R REG
 
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Just had the clutch replaced on my p reg 2.o petrol el and cost me £200 all in.There is apparently no problem in changing it though you have to remove the driveshaft etc. I don`t know if that is normal.The last clutch, a Mr Clutch special, only lasted 37000 miles as against the original one 72000.It always juddered in first probably due to weakened springs..Mr clutch replaces the linings and just cleans up the old clutch casing etc.:(
 
My Mr Clutch didnt last that long! before expiring in a cloud of smoke.
I won't be using them in future.
 
thanks guys,
i wouldn't use mr clutch if someone else paid me they have a very very bad reputation in the motor trade (n) but thanks for the advise anyway i was going to do the job myself but i can't be bothered now:D so i was going to take it to the main dealer £340 + vat inc new clutch cable does that sound resonable?:worship:
thanks paul
 
ok chap here is how you do it very simple.

HOW TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH

1 jack car up about 2foot of the floor rested by the body chassi so the wheels are free.

2 take passinger wheel off. DISCONNECT track rod / top and bottom arms / disconnect brake callepare tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move the out the way.

3 pull drive shaft out gently stand it on the splines on the floor lean against the arch on your right hand side.

4 remove bottom left hand side of your plastic arch.

5 remove air filter and rubber hose one at the back bend out the way.
clutch cable push lever forword and cable to you lift to take off also remove the outer holder on cable so cable totaly of push out the way to right hand side.

6 unddo there are seven bolts on the bellhousing udo them starter motor will come of with them bolts dont for get the one under at the back take of the dust plate so you can see some of your flywheel. there is also an earth cable on the gear box . and a white plug to undo.

7 on top of gearbox you will see a cable with a ring with rubber in middle it will pop off . there are some loose leads over the gearbox use tiebacks so they out the way.

8 get a bottle jack and a peace of wood put it under the engine for support
undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side lower the lot down get some one to give you a hand and pull the gearbox over to right hand side as far as it will go rest belhousing on crossection. remember as you pull you also disconnecting driveshaft on driver side but no worrys it will not pop right out but it will disconect to do the job.

9 slide bearing off remove old clutch system //// replace with new one if you have a lining tool better, i made my own with a round bar that i grounded to fit just long enough.

thats the easy bit. now get your mate to help as you push the gearbox back in remember you must help the drive shaft in as well on the left thats drivers side once done that. inportant you put the gearbox bottom bolt in the one near where the two drive shaft meet.
the rest is easy and history i have done this manny times save your self money get a good clutch kit.

i am in derbyshire if i can help let me know
am an old hand at this.
[email protected]

leam
 
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ok chap here is how you do it very simple.

HOW TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH

1 jack car up about 2foot of the floor rested by the body chassi so the wheels are free.

2 take passinger wheel off. DISCONNECT track rod / top and bottom arms / disconnect brake callepare tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move the out the way.

3 pull drive shaft out gently stand it on the splines on the floor lean against the arch on your right hand side.

4 remove bottom left hand side of your plastic arch.

5 remove air filter and rubber hose one at the back bend out the way.
clutch cable push lever forword and cable to you lift to take off also remove the outer holder on cable so cable totaly of push out the way to right hand side.

6 unddo there are seven bolts on the bellhousing udo them starter motor will come of with them bolts dont for get the one under at the back take of the dust plate so you can see some of your flywheel. there is also an earth cable on the gear box . and a white plug to undo.

7 on top of gearbox you will see a cable with a ring with rubber in middle it will pop off . there are some loose leads over the gearbox use tiebacks so they out the way.

8 get a bottle jack and a peace of wood put it under the engine for support
undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side lower the lot down get some one to give you a hand and pull the gearbox over to right hand side as far as it will go rest belhousing on crossection. remember as you pull you also disconnecting driveshaft on driver side but no worrys it will not pop right out but it will disconect to do the job.

9 slide bearing off remove old clutch system //// replace with new one if you have a lining tool better, i made my owen with a round bar that i grounded to fit just long enough.

thats the easy bit. now get your mate to help as you push the gearbox back in remember you must help the drive shaft in as well on the left thats drivers side once done that. inportant you put the gearbox bottom bolt in the one near where the two drive shaft meet.
the rest is easy and history i have done this manny times save your self money get a good clutch kit.

i am in derbyshire if i can help let me know
am an old hand at this.

leam
 
come on lads you dont need pics just hard graft read follow and you will get it done
 
Is it advisable/necessary to disconnect the battery before starting the job and if so are there any precautions to take before disconnecting? Radio code comes to mind but there may be other precautions I don't know about.
 
Hi guys

I might be way off the mark here (and I apologise for crashing the thread!) but I have a Scudo Combinato ('97 1.6 Petrol Engine). The clutch bearing went last week and quotes from the garage to get it fixed (€950 - I live in Austria) seem a lot.

I have the garage/workshop manuals for the Scudo which only has information on removing the whole engine and refers me to the Ulysse for **some** things (but not everything!) but seems to imply I need to drop the whole engine to get at the clutch.

Does anyone know if the clutch can be changed same as the Ulysse (ie. as described in one of the previous posts of this thread - without dropping the whole engine?) - I'd give it a go at doing it myself if so.

I've put a post up on the Scudo boards and got zero replies - I guess it's not a job often done..???

Thanks in advance - any help most appreciated.

Cheers
Mark.
 
We had ours done by a non Fiat delaer and they did it in situ. Needed some jiggling around but made the bill much smaller.
 
Leam,

Excellent descrition. I've saved it for later use.

Cheers

Tony


ok chap here is how you do it very simple.

HOW TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH

1 jack car up about 2foot of the floor rested by the body chassi so the wheels are free.

2 take passinger wheel off. DISCONNECT track rod / top and bottom arms / disconnect brake callepare tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move the out the way.

3 pull drive shaft out gently stand it on the splines on the floor lean against the arch on your right hand side.

4 remove bottom left hand side of your plastic arch.

5 remove air filter and rubber hose one at the back bend out the way.
clutch cable push lever forword and cable to you lift to take off also remove the outer holder on cable so cable totaly of push out the way to right hand side.

6 unddo there are seven bolts on the bellhousing udo them starter motor will come of with them bolts dont for get the one under at the back take of the dust plate so you can see some of your flywheel. there is also an earth cable on the gear box . and a white plug to undo.

7 on top of gearbox you will see a cable with a ring with rubber in middle it will pop off . there are some loose leads over the gearbox use tiebacks so they out the way.

8 get a bottle jack and a peace of wood put it under the engine for support
undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side lower the lot down get some one to give you a hand and pull the gearbox over to right hand side as far as it will go rest belhousing on crossection. remember as you pull you also disconnecting driveshaft on driver side but no worrys it will not pop right out but it will disconect to do the job.

9 slide bearing off remove old clutch system //// replace with new one if you have a lining tool better, i made my owen with a round bar that i grounded to fit just long enough.

thats the easy bit. now get your mate to help as you push the gearbox back in remember you must help the drive shaft in as well on the left thats drivers side once done that. inportant you put the gearbox bottom bolt in the one near where the two drive shaft meet.
the rest is easy and history i have done this manny times save your self money get a good clutch kit.

i am in derbyshire if i can help let me know
am an old hand at this.

leam
 
I have an 03 Eleganza - the clutch pedal is now very high - max of it's adjustment ? & i'm sure it's starting to slip. I've read both that the clutch is dealer only, AND that it's not - IS it ?? and any idea of cost ?? cheers.
 
Hi there,

Couldn't agree more with Hellcat.....Steer clear of Mr Clutch. We went to their garage in Slough and had a 'new' assembly fitted. Never again.
They also wanted to charge 2hrs labour to change the cutch cable. I had asked on the forum recently for help in changing the cable and had a reply saying I could do it if it was a diesel, but not so easy if petrol.
Ours........sorry, the wifes :worship: is a diesel and when I actually got under the car, it took about half an hour to replace the cable myself. No special tools or adjustments etc. Job done. Mr Clutch ( sue me if I be telling a lie ) are robbing cheating cowboys who rob you blind, don't replace all parts of the clutch assembly, and weasel out of warranty claims.(n)
 
Hi, has anyone done a clutch change on a mk 2, ie same as c8 and 807. Think I have undone all mounting bolts found 8 in total but still wont release followed guide for mk 1 but may be different due to hydraulic clutch. Any pointers would be greatfully recieved
 
[FONT=&quot]Hi everyone,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Having just completed the clutch and flywheel renewal I’ve decided to update and expand Leam’s guide to help the less experienced forum users should they decide to tackle the task themselves.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]How to change the clutch on a 04 reg 2.0 jtd manual Ulysse [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Firstly, make sure you have got the tools – you will need a 36mm thin walled socket, good quality set of short and long allen and star keys, 16mm and 18 mm sockets and flat spanners (ratcheted flat spanners are real timesavers) in addition to your typical set of spanners, and also a prise bar.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] Use the 36mm socket to loosen the big nuts on the ends of the drive shafts (centre of the wheel), obviously remove the securing pins and the nut covers first. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Jack the car off the floor rested by the body chassis so the wheels are free.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Take the wheels off. Disconnect the top arm (2 bolts on the shock absorber) and the brake calliper - tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move it out the way. Don’t bother removing the bottom arm or the track rod, there’s no need. Remove the big nuts from the driveshaft ends. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Pull the hub (the disc) on the near side down and over as far as possible and using the prise bar, free the drive shaft. You can now pull it out of the gearbox and store it away in a clean place. Remove the black plastic wheel arch liner.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]It makes sense to remove or at least pull out by at least 4” the offside driveshaft as well, as you will waste much more time struggling to pull the gearbox off it! There are two 11mm nuts holding a small bearing on the shaft at the back / bottom of the engine. Loosen the nuts by about 15 -20mm until the bolts can rotate freely (DO NOT remove the nuts!). The heads of the nuts are hooked to hold the bearing in place, so make sure they’re turned before you start attacking the collar on the inside of the bearing with a blunt bolster and a hammer to help it out. Remember, it’ll be much easier to push the bearing back in when you’ve finished with the clutch![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Remove the air filter housing and disconnect all the cables and sensors from the top of the gearbox and the side of the engine above it, as they’re very likely to get damaged when you struggle with the next steps.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Remove the hydraulic yoke at the top of the gearbox:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Prise out the black plastic plate, then remove the springy clip and turn the thingy anticlockwise to pull it out of the slot. Move it out of the way.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Remove both gear cables at the back – push a little black button at the end of each cable while pulling it off. Free the cables from the holders as well – a seemingly daunting task but if I have managed, so will you! Just get a big flat screwdriver under the clips and by turning the blade they should pop out – just watch where they end up…

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Get a bottle jack and a piece of timber; put it under the engine for support.
Undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side. Remove the whole assembly, including the part attached to the chassis (two bolts at the top and two on the side, best accessible from the wheel arch).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]You are now ready to start disconnecting the gear box.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]There are 5 main bolts holding the gearbox. Three of them are accessible from under the bonnet, two others from underneath at the back of the engine, facing the opposite direction (the heads are on the engine side). 3 round headed bolts hold the alternator which will also come off. The dust cover at the bottom of the gearbox must be removed too (2 bolts, one of which holds the big black plastic pipe as well).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The only thing holding the engine and gearbox together now is the clutch bearing. By pushing the clutch lever with a prise bar towards the engine the lugs on the bearing will snap off thus freeing the gearbox, but you will need a new bearing (one comes with a single mass flywheel converter kit). The only other way is to pull out the pin which the clutch lever is hinging on. You will find its head behind the vertical plate at the top of the gearbox. It only sticks out by about ½” and looks like a little flat button with a slot around it. It takes a lot of WD40 and a special tool (make one yourself, possibly from a small nail bar) to prise it out.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now pull the gearbox off and rest it on the cross-section. You will only get a 3-4 “ gap between the box and the engine, but this is all you’ll need.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unbolt the old clutch assembly. You will need long star keys (size 50 I think) on a ratchet to undo the 8 flywheel bolts. Be careful as you remove the flywheel as it’s quite heavy.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Fit the new flywheel – make sure the mating surfaces are spotless! Slide the new bearing onto the gearbox shaft and engage it onto the lever. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The clutch disc must be lined before fastening the bolts, otherwise the gearbox won’t get back in, so make yourself some kind of lining tool[/FONT][FONT=&quot] – the thin end should 16mm diameter, the thick end 21mm. I’ve used a taped up bicycle crank shaft. Turn the flywheel while observing that the lining tool remains straight.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now push the gearbox back in, ensuring that the shaft goes into the clutch first.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I am no mechanic, but I’ve done it on my own. The new flywheel converter set cost me £135 from Euro Car Parts, the only other expense was my time. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Allow yourself two days to complete the job, one day if you’re really good with tools and cars.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
 
ok chap here is how you do it very simple.

HOW TO CHANGE THE CLUTCH

1 jack car up about 2foot of the floor rested by the body chassi so the wheels are free.

2 take passinger wheel off. DISCONNECT track rod / top and bottom arms / disconnect brake callepare tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move the out the way.

3 pull drive shaft out gently stand it on the splines on the floor lean against the arch on your right hand side.

4 remove bottom left hand side of your plastic arch.

5 remove air filter and rubber hose one at the back bend out the way.
clutch cable push lever forword and cable to you lift to take off also remove the outer holder on cable so cable totaly of push out the way to right hand side.

6 unddo there are seven bolts on the bellhousing udo them starter motor will come of with them bolts dont for get the one under at the back take of the dust plate so you can see some of your flywheel. there is also an earth cable on the gear box . and a white plug to undo.

7 on top of gearbox you will see a cable with a ring with rubber in middle it will pop off . there are some loose leads over the gearbox use tiebacks so they out the way.

8 get a bottle jack and a peace of wood put it under the engine for support
undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side lower the lot down get some one to give you a hand and pull the gearbox over to right hand side as far as it will go rest belhousing on crossection. remember as you pull you also disconnecting driveshaft on driver side but no worrys it will not pop right out but it will disconect to do the job.

9 slide bearing off remove old clutch system //// replace with new one if you have a lining tool better, i made my owen with a round bar that i grounded to fit just long enough.

thats the easy bit. now get your mate to help as you push the gearbox back in remember you must help the drive shaft in as well on the left thats drivers side once done that. inportant you put the gearbox bottom bolt in the one near where the two drive shaft meet.
the rest is easy and history i have done this manny times save your self money get a good clutch kit.

i am in derbyshire if i can help let me know
am an old hand at this.

leam

hi there im in the middle of doin a clutch change in my ulysse 2.0 el. the step by step guide above is spot on. can you say weather or not its normal to loose some gearbox oil wen you pull the driveshaft out many thanks
 
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