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Hi everyone,[/FONT]
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Having just completed the clutch and flywheel renewal I’ve decided to update and expand Leam’s guide to help the less experienced forum users should they decide to tackle the task themselves.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]How to change the clutch on a 04 reg 2.0 jtd manual Ulysse [/FONT][FONT="][/FONT]
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[FONT="]Firstly, make sure you have got the tools – you will need a 36mm thin walled socket, good quality set of short and long allen and star keys, 16mm and 18 mm sockets and flat spanners (ratcheted flat spanners are real timesavers) in addition to your typical set of spanners, and also a prise bar.
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[FONT="] Use the 36mm socket to loosen the big nuts on the ends of the drive shafts (centre of the wheel), obviously remove the securing pins and the nut covers first. [/FONT]
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[FONT="]Jack the car off the floor rested by the body chassis so the wheels are free.[/FONT]
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Take the wheels off. Disconnect the top arm (2 bolts on the shock absorber) and the brake calliper - tie it to the coil springs/ do not undo any fluid pipes just move it out the way. Don’t bother removing the bottom arm or the track rod, there’s no need. Remove the big nuts from the driveshaft ends. [/FONT]
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[FONT="]Pull the hub (the disc) on the near side down and over as far as possible and using the prise bar, free the drive shaft. You can now pull it out of the gearbox and store it away in a clean place. Remove the black plastic wheel arch liner.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]It makes sense to remove or at least pull out by at least 4” the offside driveshaft as well, as you will waste much more time struggling to pull the gearbox off it! There are two 11mm nuts holding a small bearing on the shaft at the back / bottom of the engine. Loosen the nuts by about 15 -20mm until the bolts can rotate freely (DO NOT remove the nuts!). The heads of the nuts are hooked to hold the bearing in place, so make sure they’re turned before you start attacking the collar on the inside of the bearing with a blunt bolster and a hammer to help it out. Remember, it’ll be much easier to push the bearing back in when you’ve finished with the clutch![/FONT]
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Remove the air filter housing and disconnect all the cables and sensors from the top of the gearbox and the side of the engine above it, as they’re very likely to get damaged when you struggle with the next steps.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Remove the hydraulic yoke at the top of the gearbox:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Prise out the black plastic plate, then remove the springy clip and turn the thingy anticlockwise to pull it out of the slot. Move it out of the way.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Remove both gear cables at the back – push a little black button at the end of each cable while pulling it off. Free the cables from the holders as well – a seemingly daunting task but if I have managed, so will you! Just get a big flat screwdriver under the clips and by turning the blade they should pop out – just watch where they end up…
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[FONT="]Get a bottle jack and a piece of timber; put it under the engine for support.
Undo the gearbox mounting on right hand side. Remove the whole assembly, including the part attached to the chassis (two bolts at the top and two on the side, best accessible from the wheel arch).[/FONT]
[FONT="]You are now ready to start disconnecting the gear box.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]There are 5 main bolts holding the gearbox. Three of them are accessible from under the bonnet, two others from underneath at the back of the engine, facing the opposite direction (the heads are on the engine side). 3 round headed bolts hold the alternator which will also come off. The dust cover at the bottom of the gearbox must be removed too (2 bolts, one of which holds the big black plastic pipe as well).[/FONT]
[FONT="]The only thing holding the engine and gearbox together now is the clutch bearing. By pushing the clutch lever with a prise bar towards the engine the lugs on the bearing will snap off thus freeing the gearbox, but you will need a new bearing (one comes with a single mass flywheel converter kit). The only other way is to pull out the pin which the clutch lever is hinging on. You will find its head behind the vertical plate at the top of the gearbox. It only sticks out by about ½” and looks like a little flat button with a slot around it. It takes a lot of WD40 and a special tool (make one yourself, possibly from a small nail bar) to prise it out.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Now pull the gearbox off and rest it on the cross-section. You will only get a 3-4 “ gap between the box and the engine, but this is all you’ll need.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Unbolt the old clutch assembly. You will need long star keys (size 50 I think) on a ratchet to undo the 8 flywheel bolts. Be careful as you remove the flywheel as it’s quite heavy.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Fit the new flywheel – make sure the mating surfaces are spotless! Slide the new bearing onto the gearbox shaft and engage it onto the lever. [/FONT]
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[FONT="]The clutch disc must be lined before fastening the bolts, otherwise the gearbox won’t get back in, so make yourself some kind of lining tool[/FONT][FONT="] – the thin end should 16mm diameter, the thick end 21mm. I’ve used a taped up bicycle crank shaft. Turn the flywheel while observing that the lining tool remains straight.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]Now push the gearbox back in, ensuring that the shaft goes into the clutch first.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]I am no mechanic, but I’ve done it on my own. The new flywheel converter set cost me £135 from Euro Car Parts, the only other expense was my time. [/FONT]
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[FONT="]Allow yourself two days to complete the job, one day if you’re really good with tools and cars.[/FONT]
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