Technical UC5 engineer mode

[Hurtigz]

Howdy!

Accessed the engineer mode and discovered there are settings for car eq and cabin layout.

Does anyone here know what the settings for the car eq do?

I have recently installed a new pair of GAS 6.5 Silver and tweeters. The sound is not as great as it could be. Could changing the eq settings in engineer mode help at all?

Thanks
R

 

[Hurtigz]

Anyone. Or did I post it in the wrong section?

 

[jackwhoo]

You posted in correct section

 

[ZaphodB]

1 What settings do you have on that screen?

2 What are all these set to right now ?

The sound is not as great as it could be

3 Expand ?

Finally post some screen shots up

 

[Hurtigz]

1 What settings do you have on that screen?

2 What are all these set to right now ?



3 Expand ?

Finally post some screen shots up

 

[Hurtigz]

I guess I mixed them up. But you'll see on the pics

 

[ZaphodB]

(Car Layout: 6) = Activating front speakers (Tweeter and Midwoofer).
(Car Layout: 8) = Activating front speakers (Tweeter and Midwoofer) and rear (Full Range).

So if you've only got fronts , obviously leave it on Layout 6

I'll try and get some info on the Eq screen tomorrow.

Describe (in your words) what "The sound is not as great as it could be" means to you.

 

[Hurtigz]

I've always felt the highs took over with the original speakers. When fiddling around with that 3band EQ it never got right; always too sharp if I didn't lower the highs to around -7 or -8 but then I lost the details. The mids were just never in sync, distorted in someway.

GS6K – GAS Audio Power

6.5" component kit

www.gasaudiopower.com

Now the highs are balanced, thankfully. I could only use the filter for my tweeters since I didn't want to cut the cables inside the car that goes into the connections for the doors and no extra holes for new cables.
The sound of the mids are can-like with the mid-EQ at 0. To get them sound somewhat ok I need to lower the mids to -6, but then they sound muddy instead.

 

[ZaphodB]

I've always felt the highs took over with the original speakers. When fiddling around with that 3band EQ it never got right; always too sharp if I didn't lower the highs to around -7 or -8 but then I lost the details. The mids were just never in sync, distorted in someway.

GS6K – GAS Audio Power

6.5" component kit

www.gasaudiopower.com

Now the highs are balanced, thankfully. I could only use the filter for my tweeters since I didn't want to cut the cables inside the car that goes into the connections for the doors and no extra holes for new cables.
The sound of the mids are can-like with the mid-EQ at 0. To get them sound somewhat ok I need to lower the mids to -6, but then they sound muddy instead.

It doesn't give the crossover frequencies for the GAS crossover.

Not sure on the original setup, whether it's filtered at the amp to the original speakers and four wires to each speaker side, or whether it's just two wire full range ) and just a simple cap on the tweeter.

Were there bass and tweeter drivers on the factory setup , or just a cheapo full range speaker?

 

[Hurtigz]

It doesn't give the crossover frequencies for the GAS crossover.

Not sure on the original setup, whether it's filtered at the amp to the original speakers and four wires to each speaker side, or whether it's just two wire full range ) and just a simple cap on the tweeter.

Were there bass and tweeter drivers on the factory setup , or just a cheapo full range speaker?

Tweeters had a capacitor on them and the original was a standard paper 5"25 mid.

 

[ZaphodB]

So there are just two wires to each speaker location, which implies the full range from the head unit is being sent

So any "The sound is not as great as it could be" complaints should be directed towards the head unit amp output stage.

If you want better sound , you need an external amp (if the headunit provides low level output) , or just a new headunit.

 

[Hurtigz]

So there are just two wires to each speaker location, which implies the full range from the head unit is being sent

So any "The sound is not as great as it could be" complaints should be directed towards the head unit amp output stage.

If you want better sound , you need an external amp (if the headunit provides low level output) , or just a new headunit.

There is no possibility to get new cables through the door without drilling through the chassis to the door.
I think the cables are like 0,75-1mm. Would it be enough if I bypassed the signal from the stereo to the amp with the same cables.

 

[ZaphodB]

The cables you're speaking about are pretty usual for a factory fit, you could beef them up and ever so slightly improve bass , but don't expect miracles.

 

[Hurtigz]

The cables you're speaking about are pretty usual for a factory fit, you could beef them up and ever so slightly improve bass , but don't expect miracles.

Thanks. I'll get an external small amp and try then!

 

[ZaphodB]

Just check your head unit has low-level outputs for external amps

 

[Hurtigz]

(Car Layout: 6) = Activating front speakers (Tweeter and Midwoofer).
(Car Layout: 8) = Activating front speakers (Tweeter and Midwoofer) and rear (Full Range).

So if you've only got fronts , obviously leave it on Layout 6

I'll try and get some info on the Eq screen tomorrow.

Describe (in your words) what "The sound is not as great as it could be" means to you.

Have you figured out what cabinEq do?

Nothing happens when I change the values. Was hoping I could unlock a 9-band EQ atleast Such a boring head unit..

 

[ZaphodB]

No , the headunit (or at least some variant of the firmware) will undoubtedly be used across many Stellantis models (Jeep, Dodge, Fiat etc etc etc)

and the CabinEQ term is probably used a little erronously. just leave it as it is.... it's not gonna do anything like what you think it will do

Accept that a factory head unit can always be bettered